Hotter Than Normal

Walt Ebie

Walt Ebie

Senior Member
My '30 A ran fine last year with a new heavy duty radiator - gauge stayed in the middle green. Starting up this summer it wants to run right at or a tad over the red line. How come? I didn't think I needed to do a flush and refill every spring and may try that if necessary. Got any ideas that might cause the higher temp other than that?
 
I was just reading about running hot after the cooling system has been overhauled. It article stated to lean or to rich of fuel mixture will cause your engine to run hot. Also it stated that a retarted or to advanced timing will also cause it to run hot. This article was on a hot rod site.
 
Running too little points gap will make it run hot . Check your points gap . Too little points gap retards . Ford specs were .018 to .022 . Eighteen thousants is right on the edge of having to re set . I generally run mine on .022 but not a thousant more .
 
Purdy Swoft said:
Running too little points gap will make it run hot . ... .
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Not querying your view Purdy, but why would a too small points gap cause it to run hot. (assuming the hand timing lever is used correctly) ... I can belief that a closed points gap might cause the coil to get marginally warmer as the points would be in contact longer but why would it affect the engine running temp?
 
When the points open is when you get the spark . That is why smaller gap at the points retards and more gap advances. Thats not to say that a gap of .017 is going to make it boil over .I've seen them run with less than a .010 gap but they didn't have the same power , didn't run as well in general and ran hotter, especially if the spark lever was being run too far up the quadrant .Have you even checked the points gap . there are several things that can cause the model A to run warmer. You asked for help , I tried to give it . . .
 
all good point so far,

are you running coolant or water?

Could of had rust flakes break free and clog the radiator.
 
Check your gauge. You never know.

With Model A’s, it sometime can be the simplest of things. Enjoy.
 
failing Coils and Condensers can cause over heating. A partially clogged tail pipe can also cause engines to run above normal. A good flush can't hurt. Ernie
 
A partially clogged tail pipe can also cause engines to run above normal. A good flush can't hurt.
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Never heard of flushing a tail pipe before, learn something new every day.
 
check the actual coolant temp. with thermometer to determine if it is overheating,160 deg.is normal and efficient.
 
The fix is easy. Simply remove the glass from the gauge and bend the needle a little.
That allows the driver run cooler too.
 
rocket1 said:
check the actual coolant temp. with thermometer to determine if it is overheating,160 deg.is normal and efficient.
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I have a 160 degree thermostat, upon parking the car after a run, I use my wife's meat thermometer to check the water temperature. I am very surprised to see a consistent temperature of 170 degrees. I flushed the rad, use straight water along with water wetter.
Have you tried an external way of checking the temperature other than relying on a gauge.
Gerry Allen, Birch Bay WA
 
You may get a higher temperature at the top of radiator.

Siphon effect on engine coolant starts at around 180 degrees at top water outlet under water pump.

Inlet at bottom of engine should be around 160 degrees. This is all plus or minus depending on a number of things. Condition of radiator, coolant passages in engine, water pump, fan, outside temperature, water or antifreeze, whatever.

Depending on the condition of your engine you could have hot spots. If these spots get to hot, coolant will boil inside engine block. Steam instead of coolant in water passages will cause a lack of cooling. Oil flash on cylinder walls and possible engine failure could follow.

The Model A’s engine is designed to run in the 160 to 170 degree range.

You need the siphon effect, moves more water than the pump. Remember the Model T, no water pump, just siphon.

Your complete cooling system must be 100% or you will have problems.
 
I read some funny stuff here but......I would take the suggestions of making sure the water pump is spinning and then take off the radiator cap and check actual water temp!
 
DHZIEMAN said:
I read some funny stuff here but......I would take the suggestions of making sure the water pump is spinning and then take off the radiator cap and check actual water temp!
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Remember, the water pump is really only helping at higher RPM’s. The syphon effect does the majority of cooling.

Read a post I made last week on this forum. It’s a cooling system presentation done for The Rocky Mountain Model A Club. It could really answer a lot of your questions.

Under, Good info on cooling system.

Sorry, I just saw that you read it. Enjoy. Best regards, Bill
 
WHN said:
Remember, the water pump is really only helping at higher RPM’s. The syphon effect does the majority of cooling.

Read a post I made last week on this forum. It’s a cooling system presentation done for The Rocky Mountain Model A Club. It could really answer a lot of your questions.

Under, Good info on cooling system.

Sorry, I just saw that you read it. Enjoy. Best regards, Bill
Click to expand...

There is so much stuff to read and at my age of 77, repeating things is a good thing!
 
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