hot ignition switch

G

goshencars

Member
When I flip the lever to start on my Ignition switch on my 40 the switch enclosure gets hot. Almost to hot to touch. Is this normal? I took it apart and it looked OK. Is there a fix? Is there a short? Thanks
 
Something is creating a large current draw or high resistance. Did you check to see if the wires out of the ignition switch are hot? There is a wire to the ballast resistor and a wire that provides power to the gauges.
 
Heat means resistance and bad connections inside the switch or maybe too much current going through the switch. Often other electrical accessories are connected through the ignition switches which should not be there. The switch contacts wear especially the bakelite plate which ends up with a groove in it which prevents good contact. Take the wires off the switch and fit a test ammeter in line with the wires to test the amps current draw. Ignition should be only about 3 or 4 amps. Regards, Kevin.
 
heat is never good unless its in a light globe need to check it out just out of curiosity are you 6-12 v +\- earth. I would be checking for voltage drop or checking ohms your switch should be 0 ohms or voltage drop then work out from there
 
Take it apart and clean the contacts. Do not use sandpaper to clean contacts. Also clean the brass threaded terminals on the back of the switch and look at each wire terminal carefully for damage of a loose connection to the wire. Reassemble make sure all is clean and snug.
 
Terry said:
Take it apart and clean the contacts. Do not use sandpaper to clean contacts. Also clean the brass threaded terminals on the back of the switch and look at each wire terminal carefully for damage of a loose connection to the wire. Reassemble make sure all is clean and snug.
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I agree, but would be interesting to check the resistance (ohms) before and after cleaning it. As aussie merc pointed out, the resistance should be near "0". Be sure to check it on the lowest scale and zero the meter (if it is the type that requires you to zero it).
 
I don't know if the '40 switch is the same as the '46, but I took mine apart, cleaned it, reinstalled, and it works like new. The way the switch is held together with flares in the tabs where the mounting bolt go through, meant that I had to solder the edge of the tabs together. Not a big deal.
 

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This is a dangerous situation and you need to deal with it right away or it can easily go straight to disaster mode. I would disconnect the battery immediately until you can work on this serious problem. It may be a simple problem but you need to fix it. Play it safe
 
I took the switch apart and sanded the bakelite on a piece of sandpaper laying on a piece of glass. This way i knew it would be flat. I did the same with the three prong part. After putting it back together is was fine. Thanks to all
 
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