Hot 4 Banger radiator question

H

höllenteufel

Junior Member
Hey Guys,

I'm going to do a hot Model B 4 Banger engine and need a radiator for it.
Some Specs: It's gonna have a 6.5:1 Lion Head, a stipe 330 oder 340 cam. Bigger intake valves, red headers 4 into 2 and 1 downdraft carb (stromberg or similar).

The Question is, what radiator should I go for, to get efficient cooling? Read good stuff about Bergs. Is that something to go for?

Still have the original Model A 4 banger in the car, that also needs a new radiator. I wondered about putting the new oversized one for the hot banger in it. And if it's keeping it too cold, I'll just cover parts from the radiator. Should also work out, what do you guys think?
 
Go for Berg's , if runs to cool put thermostat in it . Vintage Precision is a nice way to go . You can then put temp probe in below thermostat and see temp.
 
From my experience, you will need extra cooling capacity if you are planning to fully use the extra power available from the engine as you are building it. Be careful in the selection of your cooling system as the possible result of overheating a B block is a crack developing between an exhaust seat and either the adjoining cylinder or intake seat. I suggest you consider a 4# pressurized radiator.
I have experience working with many cooling systems for Model A's. A well maintained stock engine used/driven as originally intended will only require a stock radiator/cooling system. When you start producing and using more horse power, more heat is produced and it needs to be extracted from the engine.
I have two 4# pressurized systems in my touring cars with Brassworks radiators. One engine produces 65 hp and the other produces 80 hp. Both engines are pushed a bit on the freeway occasionally and without the sealed systems, they would throw water out the overflow tube and overheat. The engine you are describing is very close to my 65 hp Phaeton engine.
FWIW: I have heard nothing but good things about Berg's radiators. I met the owner in Branson, during a national convention, while walking through the swap area and looked his product over. His workmanship was very good.
Good Day!
 
Last edited:
Thanks for your answers!! The 4 psi pressurized by brassworks sounds pretty good and also fair with the price. If i put this one in my original banger first it should work out also, right? It too cool, I still can go for the thermostate, I think.
 
I run hot bangers, both OHV and flathead, 100 + horsepower. I have mostly run stock original radiators and they have worked good. I run V8 water pumps but one pushed water out the overflow so I now run a pressurized system. I ran for years without a fan but now run an electric fan. Running without one works fine as long as you are moving. pm or e-mail me if you want details on building a performance banger, I have written a book on them. Performance bangers run as cool as stock engines because they are more efficient. p.s., I was stationed in Nurnberg in 1961-62 and loved it. I recommend a thermostat, keeps the engine at a constant temp.
 
Jim, I don't mean to derail the thread but I have to ask,,,,,. Was there any sign of the war from twenty years earlier while you were there?

Jim Brierley said:
I run hot bangers, both OHV and flathead, 100 + horsepower. I have mostly run stock original radiators and they have worked good. I run V8 water pumps but one pushed water out the overflow so I now run a pressurized system. I ran for years without a fan but now run an electric fan. Running without one works fine as long as you are moving. pm or e-mail me if you want details on building a performance banger, I have written a book on them. Performance bangers run as cool as stock engines because they are more efficient. p.s., I was stationed in Nurnberg in 1961-62 and loved it. I recommend a thermostat, keeps the engine at a constant temp.
Click to expand...
 
My motor is similar spec to yours and I run an aluminium radiator. It appears to be running too cool most of the time and only in heavy stop-start traffic do I need to switch the electric fan on. I have a thermostat with its guts removed to slow down the flow and a Ford Falcon water pump fitted. I've tried fitting an 80 degree thermostat a couple of times in the top hose, but in each case it resulted in the motor boiling fairly quickly?
 
Higher compression = higher efficiency = cooler engine

Timing is where your heat problems come from,tune it right and it will run cooler than a stock engine,use a stock radiator.
 
Thanks guys for all the answers. I need a new radiator anyway. The car (now with the original banger) drives a lot. About 3 to 4.000 miles a year. Also a lot on highways on long runs with about an average of 55 to 60 mph. Also over hills.

So if i will use a pressurized one from brassworks, would I have any disadvantages to the original one?
 
This - btw - is the car. Don't know, if i have it in any other thread.
 

Attachments

  • Unbenannt.jpg
    Unbenannt.jpg
    36.6 KB · Views: 43
höllenteufel,

Go to Brasswork's web site:

https://www.thebrassworks.net/

Look under the heading of Parts and Pieces; you will find overflow tanks. I use the 15" stainless steel in my cars. The 13" would be large enough if you have a space problem.

As far as disadvantages of a pressurized radiator compared to a non-pressurized radiator:
A marginal water pump could leak a bit more. I use the leakless pumps and have not had any issues.
Good Day!
 
Last edited:
History, Didn't mean to ignore you, just hadn't returned to this thread. Yes, there were signs of the war, mosty on smaller, little-used streets, there was still some rubble, mostly from stone walls or homes. An odd thing was Nurnberg is a walled city, and you could easily see where the wall had been repaired after bomb damage. they used stone from the original quarry, but the older parts had turned an ugly brown while the new sections were a nice, pretty rose color. Not much damage had been done to any of the churches, and there were some nice ones.
 
I have a similar set up, I am using the Brassworks pressurized radiator with the expansion tank between the shell, slick setup. With the Vintage Precision 185° thermostat it operates between 180 and 190°. The Lion head seems to operate cool, relatively. The Rupert sealed pump doesn't leak. Made it through the Mojave desert now in Michigan the car survived, not sure about the driver or passenger...

A's Always Dave
 
Thanks to all of you. Brassworks seem to be the way to go. I'm already in contact with lee, what we will do and I thinks it's going to be the pressurized brassworks radiator, also with the expansion/overflow tank between the shell and radiator.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top