Horsepower

Then there is this way
 

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Yes i thought about something for a booster but never played with that kind of stuff
I put a 327 gear in just want to stay with traffic
Oh i do have a 6.0 snyder head but who knows where the compression will end up
I will be milling that to be able to get as close to the pistons as close that will be save
I've been told i could get by with .025 between them but we will see
Hopefully i get the parts back from my machine guy tomorrow
Then the fun starts


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BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
To answer you specifically; a 6½:1 high-compression head, a Stipe IB340 camshaft, oversized ( 1.750" ) intake valves with the valve bowls opened up, port match the intake and open up the draw-tube to 1.250" with a flowed Model-B carb, and a rebuilt distributer with a Stipe cam and a good coil will get you very close on a dyno. Other items such as an exhaust header, 2bbl carburetor, hotter camshaft, etc. will give you a little more power, but in my opinion look for ways to increase torque instead of adding Hp. Torque will allow you to pull a higher gear ratio which increases mph.
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Brent thankyou for your advice and i agree but with horsepower comes more torque also torque is what gets you moving and horsepower takes over after that
Not building a race motor just looking to go down the road at a respectable speed to not be an henderance to others:rolleyes:
 
MikeK said:
Which Stipe 340 cam? If it is the Stipe IB 340 you won't be making that much horsepower with what you've spec'd. (IB stands for 'Improved B'). If you get one of the the Stipe Road Runners, like the RR340, which is a more agressive cam, you may reach your coveted 70hp. You can see the spec's for the IB340 and the RR340 cams on Vince's website.

Keep in mind a lot of horsepower or torque in an A is useless unless it has a very wide power band, necessary because you have only three widely spaced forward gear ratios. Unfortunately, mods to increase power inevitably raise the RPM for power peaks and narrow the band as a percentage of operating range. Increased HP also becomes diminished in effectiveness if the power peaks are thousands of RPM above stock because you will not be able to shift that non-synchro trans quickly enough to keep on top of that power band.
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All very true! For optimum performance, you need to maximise the area under the power/RPM graph. Going for max horsepower raises the curve for a narrow rev range, sure and that increases the area under the curve at that point but also makes it lower elsewhere which reduces the area on other parts of the power curve. You win in one place, you lose elsewhere so it's a balancing act.
 
Synchro909 said:
All very true! For optimum performance, you need to maximise the area under the power/RPM graph. Going for max horsepower raises the curve for a narrow rev range, sure and that increases the area under the curve at that point but also makes it lower elsewhere which reduces the area on other parts of the power curve. You win in one place, you lose elsewhere so it's a balancing act.
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Yes very true
I'm new to these little motors learning by reading and asking
Talked stipes and told them what i had and the future induction
The IB340 is what he suggested
I thought about the RR340 but not knowing I followed his lead
Terry


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Towd56 said:
What's that make for HP?
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Never got it to the dyno (only run stand time ) before someone else had to have it for his little hot rod and bought it from me. I have talked to him and he said that "when you leave a stop light you know that it's not a stock Model A"
I have no doubt that if you get greedy and turn it up it will make enough HP to push the crank out of the bottom :eek:
 
Isn't doubling the RPM of a model A engine like souping up a rotary? The flywheel becomes a grenade? Just thinking about that huge heavy flywheel in there turning at high speed and the forces on it, when the car changed direction it wants to rotate on the same plane it's on and parts company with the crank?
 
Phil Brown said:
Never got it to the dyno (only run stand time ) before someone else had to have it for his little hot rod and bought it from me. I have talked to him and he said that "when you leave a stop light you know that it's not a stock Model A"
I have no doubt that if you get greedy and turn it up it will make enough HP to push the crank out of the bottom :eek:
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I guess that's a pretty fair answer! A neat set up.
 
With all the perceived need for power and speed, remember that ya gotta stop the thing somehow. Don't forget to pay attention to the brakes.
 
kenb43 said:
With all the perceived need for power and speed, remember that ya gotta stop the thing somehow. Don't forget to pay attention to the brakes.
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Yup, think safety always !!

I'm working on a 'parachute' project for Phil and John's rides :) !
 
So what is a safe steady speed for the engine mph with 3.27 rear end, burlington crank,
with inserts and rods from antiqueengines, 6.0 head, stipes cam, pistons with plenty of clearance and a pair of heavy boots and a tank of gas!

What is a safe rpm range, something in the realm of "normal"
 
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