Horn Wiring

JtownJoe

Senior Member
I just received my New Wiring Harness for 30' Tudor & all my old wiring was any color anywhere, I want to be sure, does the Solid Yellow horn wire go to the contact soldered to the insulated plate inside the horn & Blue & Yellow wire to the grounded terminal? I have wiring diagrams from a few sources but they just show the wires running into the horn but not specified. Thanx!
 
ModelAwiringdiagram-FloydClymer.jpg
 
i was just looking in Les Andrews book vol.1, and i don't think that it matters. its not labeled in the horn is it i think i just loosened the screw and pushed them in the contacts and retightened the screw. JAN.:) the horn button when pushed just completes the circut.
 
Neither contact in the horn should be grounded on a original horn. It is grounded thru the horn button connection ( blue and yellow wire).
 
Neither terminal under the horn cover should be grounded. The power wire can go to either terminal and the horn button wire can go the the other terminal.

The horn body does not need or use a ground, as the horn button grounds the horn circuit.

Jerry types faster!
 
I had an instance where I disconnected my horn and when I reconnected it, it didn't work. I switched the wires and presto, Ahooga! I think the polarity matters as far a direction the motor spins and the ratchet function that makes the noise..... thoughts?
 
I had an instance where I disconnected my horn and when I reconnected it, it didn't work. I switched the wires and presto, Ahooga! I think the polarity matters as far a direction the motor spins and the ratchet function that makes the noise..... thoughts?

The motor is series wound, so when you change the field polarity you also change the armature polarity, and the motor still spins the same direction.
 
Thanx for the help since it doesn't seem to matter I'll just connect the solid yellow to the insulated connection & let the blue/yellow be grounded thru the horn button. It's amazing how many wires the former owners had just cut off & some were still hot at the other end, glad i just went with the whole new harness, I just hope the conact plate at the bottom of the spider switch all works OK, I'm sure it's a repo. Thanx to all again.
 
Mike V. Is that colored schematic available on a 11x22 in. drawing? It would make a great wall hanging in my garage. I might even fold it up and throw it under the floor mat for trouble shooting on the road. Ed
 
Hello, I have what looks to be a model A style horn that has been restored and powder coated. It looks like a spartan but there is no tag. Might be replica but the inside looks old.

Anyway, I want to install it in my 2013 car (sorry, not a ford). I was trying to decide if I run it on 12v battery or get a converter to step it down to 6v.

First I ran it on 12v and it gave a great loud sound. But I want to try it at 6v so I ordered a converter that arrives in a couple days. I hope at 6v it gives a better natural sound. I'll let you know how it works out.

Also, does it matter which terminal I connect + or - wire to? No problem with reverse polarity? My horn didn't have wires when I acquired it so I wired it with 14 gauge.
 
The horns of the time were probably all series wound as Tom W says above, and polarity shouldn't matter. Your converter should be capable of at least 6 amps output, but a smaller one would probably work ok for a few honks at a time. There should also be a screw for tone adjustment. 18 gauge is sufficient, larger is ok.

(So what it's an 8-year-old thread. Still on-topic. No biggie.)
 
Thank you @badpuppy. Well, the converter to 6v didn't produce any sound whatsoever.

I used this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CGQRIFG?tag=atomicindus08-20

But I see now that it is only 3 amp output max :-) so I guess I need to find another one that can output at least 6 amps, correct?


Go to a Model A vendor close to you (to save shipping) and look up "horn resistor".


Here is one from Mikes Afordable.


https://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A13820B.html
 
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