horn wiring help required

[Ron Pilger]

Project is 34 3W Ford Coupe. Two repro horns installed. Both function when hooked direct to a 6 volt motorcycle battery. New Tyree H. wiring installed end-to-end in the car. Lights work. Horn doesn't. Tried two different horn rods. Pulled apart the horn button on one and have connectivity from the horn button to the contact end. I tried building up the lower end with solder to ensure a good connection; no difference after this process. Confirmed all wiring in the switch is proper and went through the wiring diagram again, twice. Seems like a ground issue. I'm perplexed? What am I missing? Thx. in advance.

 

[solidaxle]

These old cars are fun!


Most likely grounds or horn switch contact.



I'll assume you don't have a hand held volt meter. I carry one in my road tool box to trace electrical problems on the road.


You could do a quick test without a meter. Take a wire and hook it to the horn terminal that connects to the chassis and run it directly to the battery terminal that goes to the chassis. Push the horn button. If it still doesn't work the problem is most likely the switch contacts. But at least you know what direction the problem is

Trace down the problem and try again with the jumper still in place. If it works, remove jumper, if it stops working when you remove the jumper you have a ground problem also.

 

[rockfla]

IF it is the "stock" system AND you are dealing with a painted vehicle are you SURE your NEW horn mounts are grounded to bare metal OR did you scrape the mounting flange of the Repro horns so they can ground????

 

[Bob C]

Looking at the wiring diagram the horns ground from the horn button and they get power from the starter switch. Do you have power to the horns?

 

[Ron Pilger]

Yes, have power to the horns. I removed both horns tonight and sanded any paint remnants from this old jalopy (long story for a future post on this forum).
Having had the horn rod apart, I did look at the top of the horn wire and the horn button. Plenty of metal left on each and evidence of good contact judging by shiny spots.
The horn rod is straight with no internal contact (and therefore no blaring horns when turning).

It seems to me all that is left is replacing the horn rod wire, although I can't locate stock at prominent suppliers, currently.

Still stumped, unless this attempt becomes the ultimate fix?

 

[petehoovie]

Yes, have power to the horns. I removed both horns tonight and sanded any paint remnants from this old jalopy (long story for a future post on this forum).
Having had the horn rod apart, I did look at the top of the horn wire and the horn button. Plenty of metal left on each and evidence of good contact judging by shiny spots.
The horn rod is straight with no internal contact (and therefore no blaring horns when turning).

It seems to me all that is left is replacing the horn rod wire, although I can't locate stock at prominent suppliers, currently.

Still stumped, unless this attempt becomes the ultimate fix?

 

[Bob C]

Have you tried hooking a ground wire right at the horn where the blue with yellow tracer wire is to bypass the horn button?

 

[Zeke3]

It seems to me all that is left is replacing the horn rod wire, although I can't locate stock at prominent suppliers, currently.

Check with Michael at Third Gen Automotive for the horn rod repair kit, if you haven’t already. I got one from him in the last year or so. I haven’t installed it yet.

 

[DavidG]

The horns do not ground through the horns or their brackets (hence the two wires in each horn, one in and one out), but rather through the horn button/steering column.

 

[Mickd]

Steering column grounded ok ? Painted or rusty bolts at the chassis?

 

[TerryOH]

As DavidG above states. The ground wire runs from the horn to the center contact of the light switch. Use an ohmmeter there to check continuity. With the light switch off also check continuity of the horn rod from the bottom contact to ground. If the horn rod does not have continuity Bratton's model A sells a repair kit.