Horn Rod Lube?

spinelll

spinelll

Senior Member
Do you use dialectric grease or another type on the horn rod? My horn button sometimes turns when I move the steering wheel and as a result the lights turn off.

Thanks
Leo
 
When I installed a new horn/light rod in my 29, I put a little bearing grease around the top of the column where the light rod makes contact.
 
It's not always rubbing at the outside of horn rod tube, often the rub is the upper cast hub where the outer edge fits down in the recess of the wheel. Check the clearance here with a piece of paper in and around the crevice. Also there is a brass bushing that often gets left out at the very top of the rod and just under the hub for the horn.
 
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Are you referring to this? If I slip this on, the horn ring doesn't seat.
 

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time to drill out the top of the steering rod - it gets squashed down when you tighten the steering wheel nut.
 
Enlarge the inside diameter of the shaft, by running a drill bit down it for a few inches. Find a bit that fits the shaft hole, then get a bit 1/64" larger in diameter and enlarge the hole. Then test the horn rod for binding.
 
I had a problem similar to yours, light switch rotating with wheel . I cleaned , lubricated , several times to know avail. found out that the lower spring never had enough compression when light switch and wiring harness was assembled to hold detents for light positions firm enough. replaced with new spring ... all good. does your light switch hold positive solid positions when turning light switch to various positions ... I think that thats a sign of a weak spring.
 
4port said:
Enlarge the inside diameter of the shaft, by running a drill bit down it for a few inches. Find a bit that fits the shaft hole, then get a bit 1/64" larger in diameter and enlarge the hole. Then test the horn rod for binding.
Click to expand...

Yup hes got it. :cool:
 
Could be that the switch/lever at the center of the steering column is not square with the tube and it's rubbing on the steering wheel. That was the problem with the last one I ran across that was moving with the steering wheel. Just gave it a bit of a tweak to straighten it out and all was well.
 
4port said:
Enlarge the inside diameter of the shaft, by running a drill bit down it for a few inches. Find a bit that fits the shaft hole, then get a bit 1/64" larger in diameter and enlarge the hole. Then test the horn rod for binding.
Click to expand...

I would not recommend this, as taking any material out of the steering shaft might weaken it. Before I did this, I would reduce the diameter of the horn rod.
 
Were not saying take an 1/8" off - just ever so slightly. The nut and taper portion does get squashed down over the years of people tightening that nut to probably way too tight, beating on it, using pullers, running a die down the threads, etc. Its probably in the top 1" its the issue. Horn rod is what 3/8" diameter? Run a 3/8" bit down the hole. if 3/8" is loose creep up to a W (.386") bit or 25/64 (.390").
 
For the lube I use the lite white grease, a little dab will do ya, does not get stiff in cold weather, stays wet/moist for a long time.
Hint: Make sure the rod is perfectly straight (they bend real easy)
 
After straightening the slightly bowed rod I lubed it liberally with chassis grease and reassembled.
No more problems.
 
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