Horn rod length

pops30

New member
I have a June 1930 tudor. It doesn’t have a horn rod. I’m in the middle of a frame off and the column is out. What do I measure to find the right length? It’s a 2 tooth box. Can I measure the steering shaft? Seems to be 3 for the 30-31?
Thanks in advance.
 
Snyders gives good direction on choosing the correct horn rod.

Complete with the wire contacts, insulators, horn button and escutcheon. The length is measured on the tube part from the top of the tube where the tube goes into the head, down to the keeper groove.
NOTE: A-3616-B is used on the 7-Tooth Columns and A-3616-C is used on the 2-Tooth columns. U.S.A.
Below are shaft measurements , not light switch rod measurement. If your original light rod is missing, measure the steering shaft with a piece of string or wire.
A-3616-B = 44-1/2"
A-3616-C = 43"
A-3616-F = 44-1/2"
A-3616-G = 43"
A-3616-H = 44"
You may find the measure a little "off" from what is presented here. Total length depends on the positioning of the worm on the shaft (it's a press fit) I think you might want the horn rod a little "long" if the number is measured a little short - the spring at the bottom (i.e. spyder) will take up the little excess.

Your June 1930 car is likely the F, G, or H. The C version is associated with the "Gemmer" steering box (marked on the side) which is associated with the 28-29 column. The top of F, G, H has the black plastic center button and the "control" is a little flatter to match the 30-31 wheel center.

Joe K
 
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Thanks Joe, I was on snyders ordering, looked at the horn rods but somehow I didn’t that. I appreciate the response.
 
Run a wire down through the steering shaft while holding your finger over the hole in the worm end.When the wire pokes you in the finger hold it flush with the bottom of the worm.Then mark the wire flush with the top of the steering wheel threads.Then pull the wire out and measure from the end to your mark.As Joe says,there may be a little difference in how far the worm was pressed on,but it won't be much.The actual differences are big enough for you to figure out,off 1/8 is not going to confuse you,I think the smallest difference is 1/2 inch.
 
Ford did some different parts sourcing for the truck cab applications in early 1930. They used the 1928/29 style cabs basically till they used them up for the later cab style, They used the 1929 type shorter steering assembly but they changed the steering wheel to the 1930 design. The automobile ones were all the long variety. Since the older truck cab was used, they still used the older style fuel tank but they changed the full cap bung to the 1930 style fuel cap. As soon as the later 1930 cabs were produced, they all used the longer style steering gear and column assembly.

The longest ones were the 7-tooth types and Ford continued to use them well up into 1930 at least. The short 43" ones were either the 1929 old horn button style or the short 1930 with late horn button style for truck cabs. The 44" ones were the Long Gemmer types for 1930 and 31.
 
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The "gemmer" style are marked with an "F" on the side you can see easily (i.e. the side towards the engine) and "Gemmer Pat. Pending" on the side towards the frame rail.

My March 29 "Avatar" has this steering setup.

The "long gemmer style" are marked "A-3550-C" on the side towards the engine - and not marked on the side towards the frame rail.

I've only seen the A-3550-C with a 30-31 style top on it. (I.e. "short" click ratchet for the throttle/advance rods) and a 30-31 wheel and light switch top with the black center push.

There physically is no difference in the castings or their machining between the two variants. The Gemmer internal parts are not being reproduced, but everyone uses the A-3550-C parts to rebuild, which are (were) reproduced. Maybe more so coming up.

And, of course the internal part differences are outlined in the Service Bulletins page 481 and page 517

Joe K
 
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an fyi
i don't know if this still happens but you may want to check it before you install.

i haven't bought one in a while but a while ago the horn rods were made of aluminum. they were too snug in the steering shaft so when ever you made a turn the light switch would come on or off.

i would slide that new horn rod into the shaft as soon as you receive it to make sure that it is loose with no tight spots. or ask the supplier if there is any issues concerning this.
 
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