Horn Problem and Fuel Gauge

R

robert shreveport

Senior Member
A friend of mine has a 29 "A" coupe the horn has quite working and the fuel gauge has stopped showing any sign of life. Where should he look for a solution to either. Could he not check for voltage at the horn and rule that out. How would he lose ground if that is the culprit. The horn has 6 volts all the time doesn't it? The horn button just grounds it, correct? Would the switch at the bottom of the steering column have anything to do with it? I do not beleive he has monkeyed with it in any way so far so as it to be his fault . Just quite working as far as I know.
Now the fuel gauge what should he check there? Do you think the float has something wrong with it? Can"t the float be changed while in the car without doing anything major? What type float is recommended? What do you guys think on both problems? There is no wires to check for with this problem is it, it is just purely a mechanical problem, correct?
 
Yes, the horn has 6 volts on it all the time. The horn button simply provides a ground to complete the current loop across the motor. Horns gum up too, so if you have correct voltage and a ground and still no horn, clean the brushes and commutator, then lube the ends of the motor shaft. You should see some "sponge" looking material at the ends. That helps keep the oil in place. Just about any oil will do.

Fuel gauge is easy. Gauge rebuild kits are available from just about everyone.
 
Thanks Paul, do you know how time consuming it is to do this repair and can't it be done in the car? You have to lower the gas level below the the gauges? say how much should you drain out for this repair.
 
Actually about 2/3rds tank or less should let you remove the fuel guage. The neoprene float is the recommended one, but my cork float has been in use for 10 years and is doing fine. Be sure to use only the cork gaskets for the guage glass and guage to tank seal. I always install the cork gaskets dry and never have a problem. If the old cork float has broken into pieces, be sure to get tham all out of the tank, or they may plug the fuel line. I always install the small stand up filter in the gas tank valve. This will prevent a plugged inlet or fuel line.

I always find the floats are too long for the wire float arm, so I cut a notch in the end of the float about 1/4" deep for the wire to set into. I squeeze the end of the wire with a vice grip to release the small brass washer, then after the new float is on I use the top of the vice as an anvil and hit the end of the wire with a hammer and punch to flatten it a bit to hold the brass washer.
 
I used the cork gaskets on our truck fuel gauge and had leaks. The neoprene gaskets have been the fix for me.
 
It might be a good ideal to disconect the battery or at least kill power to the dash wiring while working on the gas gauge.

Depending on whether or not the gas gauge has been removed before and what type of sealer was used if it was R&Red you may have an incredibly hard time removing the gas gauge rings, right up to the point of having to cut them with a hammer and chisel. Don't even try removing the gauge with the cheap cast aluminum tools. Get the heavier steel tools. I have rebuilt quite a few gas gauges (10+) and only one came out easy.

First remove the horn cover, one screw. Check to see if one of the wires may have gotten loose, they just clip in. Check for power to horn. If you have power to horn check the following. Horn requires oil on rear bearing wick....is it dry. Armature might be corroded and need a light sanding. Horn adjuster screw might have been tightened to much. Good luck and don't let a hot horn wire short to the conduit.
 
Richard what do you mean by the R&RED sealer? I think my friends car is almost original so the fuel gauge may well be hard to remove, I hope not. It seems cork gaskets might be #1 choice.
My friend has never been on fordbarn before, we talked about this forum Tuesday when I told him this would be a good start in learning what to do. I hope he is viewing all the reponses. Thanks for all the help.
 
Thanks Tom. I should not have used the abreviation.

Through the years many of the Model A gas gauges have been removed for repair of the gauge or to try and get rust or debris out of the tank, usually by clueless owners. When the gauge was reinstalled many different types of sealer were used. From what I have seen they tend to use the thickest and strongest sealer available at the time. The worst was the guy that used most of a tube of JB Weld.

I have had good luck with a VERY light coat of Indian Head gasket shellac on the cork gasket.
 
Richard Wilson said:
Thanks Tom. I should not have used the abreviation.

Through the years many of the Model A gas gauges have been removed for repair of the gauge or to try and get rust or debris out of the tank, usually by clueless owners. When the gauge was reinstalled many different types of sealer were used. From what I have seen they tend to use the thickest and strongest sealer available at the time. The worst was the guy that used most of a tube of JB Weld.

I have had good luck with a VERY light coat of Indian Head gasket shellac on the cork gasket.
Click to expand...

Richard Wilson ...............
I would wonder about the gasket shellac. Alcohol is a solvent of shellac. That is why the cork floats are starting to fail, after working for decades. The cork was coated with shellac to keep them waterproof. Gasoline, alone, will not touch shellac.
This ethonol gasoline is no friend to us old car guys.
MIKE :)
 
I have to agree Mike. Ethanol is causing all sorts of problems with the older cars. More so with the 50's-60's cars than the Model A's. I have not seen or heard of a problem with the shellac on the cork gas gauge gaskets so far but it might be a problem down the road.
 
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