Horn Help

I changed the pos and neg cables....now I get spark when I put the wire from the terminal box to the top of the starter and after a few seconds it burns my fuse....

I just took the horn wire and wire From the terminal box off the cut out and now it's not blowing the fuse....when I try to hook the terminal wire to the cut out it sparks....
 
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Mike V. Florida said:
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If you remove the cars wiring and use a battery charger does it get hot or does it blow?
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JerMar said:
No it doesn't blow....if I hook it to the battery directly its the same thing, it gets hot. This is a rebuilt original that purchased from twlucas on eBay... Thanks for all the help!
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Let me post this drawing;
 

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Went through all wiring and everything is hooked up right.

Initially when I hooked up the wire from the terminal box to the fuse on the starter it sparks and eventually blew the fuse. I then took off the wires from the generator and it didn't spark or blow the fuse any more when hooking it up. Then when I try to hook up the generator wire from the terminal box to the generator it sparks and blows the fuse. So I traced the wire and took off the wires to the stop light switch it now it's not sparking at the generator anymore.

Since I have a new light switch harness and a new tailight, the only thing left is a bad stop switch that is shorting things out making the spark.

Is this right? I have ordered a new stop switch to see!
 
It could well be. The repro switches aren't worth spit. Try to get an original. I'm sure Bert's has one.
 
You can also try swapping the two wires on the switch and see if it works OK. I've seen repro brake switches that short to ground on one terminal when in the OFF position, but when ON neither terminal shorts to ground. So, you may still be able to use a faulty switch by just swapping the two wires.
 
My horn on my 28 special coupe did the same thing its shorting out on the horn part , its a very small fiber or insulated washer , on the u shape part that holds the carbon thing with the scree. You have to look very carefully it might be missing it ,should be four of them each side of the u shape piece .
 
Well thought it was the brake switch but it's not. Got the horn back hooked it to the battery and it sounds pretty but still getting the sparks when trying to hook the wires to it from the cutout. I am getting 6V from battery to starter, from starter to terminal box (left post), goes to the ammeter and back to right post of terminal box and then to the cutout. From the cutout to the horn is a cnstant 6v on the yellow wire that goes to the horn. The blue wire that goes to horn there is nothing. Should there always be power (6v) going to terminal and to cutout and to horn?
 
Ok. Take the three wires off the output side of the cutout now touch the wire from the terminal box to the cut out, does it spark? If yes the problem is in the cut out/ generator, if no leave it hooked up to the cut out. Touch the yellow wire from the horn to the cut out output, does it spark? If yes the problem is in the horn, if no leave it hooked to the cut out. Touch the yellow wire from the light switch to the cut out output, does it spark? If yes the problem is in the lights, if no sell the car.

Bob
 
I still think there is a grounding problem. Grounding means the positive side. The negative side of the battery goes directly to the starter switch. The starter is grounded meaning positive. Somewhere there is a negative wire that is grounding. Confusing ain't it?
 
captndan said:
I still think there is a grounding problem. Grounding means the positive side. The negative side of the battery goes directly to the starter switch. The starter is grounded meaning positive. Somewhere there is a negative wire that is grounding. Confusing ain't it?
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Yes I believe so to but I have went through everything and can't find it!
 
JerMar said:
So there should always be 6V from the yellow wire at the horn terminal? Or should there be 6v when you press the horn button?
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Look at the drawing, The horn has only two wires. One wire comes from the battery and one goes to the horn switch. That's it. If the horn switch is grounded the motor will spin. If it is not nothing should happen.

Take a picture on how you have the wires connected to the horn.

It is VERY hard to assist when we cannot see that is being done.

Have YOU taken the horn wiring off and used a battery charger to test the horn? I don't care what the repair guy did, did YOU do it?

I know you have said before that hooked up the charger to the horn and it only got hot and did not blow. There can be only 2 reasons for that, you are not hooking it up correctly or the horn is defective. That's it only those two things. If you cannot get it blow with the wires disconnected and a battery charger connected all the rest of the wiring in the car means nothing.

Is there anyone near Richmond Va. that can help him?
 

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A couple of us went over to JerMar's house yesterday and looked at the situation. He wired everything correctly! We pulled the horn off the car (thereby isolating it from the ground) and it worked properly. When I checked the terminals on the horn I discovered that there was continuity to the horn frame, so he had a constant short. I told him to send it back to the rebuilder. It will work fine using a battery charger in this configuration, but will short out when connected to the frame of the car.
 
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