hood adjustment tips pleaee

M

MrWzrd

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Before I start messing with it I figured I would se if there is any quick and easy way to get the hood adjusted right.
 
What Ray said should come first.
The rod nuts can adjust the top fore and aft for a good gap at the top, and shimming under the radiator mounts can tip the top of the radiator left and right a bit. Most problems seem to be too large a gap at the rear lower part of the hood, and this is almost always caused by a frame sag at the rear motor mounts.
 
Front body bolt pads can make a big difference. Like was mentioned though, a sagging frame can make getting a perfect hood fit tough.
 
Forgot to mention that the radiator mounting holes under the radiator are slotted a little for you to be able to slide the radiator left and right. This can help with the gap at the front edge of the hood.
 
Arlen... The slotted holes were an unknown. Thanks.

Having done the steering column overhaul I don't think I have a sagging frame (well, I might, but I don't think the car does)

The gap seems uniform top to bottom and it was right before I removed the radiator but now it seems to want to have no gap at the front (radiator frame) and a big gap behind. (firewall)
 
I had the same gap on my A after I pulled the engine and put everything back together. I found that the hood had shifted on the hood pin. I stood at front of the car, lifted both sides of the hood and rocked it back and forth. The hood slid back and the large gap along the cowl fixed. Good luck.
 
It took 40 minutes of futzing, fiddling and tweaking but the hood is now back evenly spaced.
Thanks for the input!
 
My '31 coupe has about a 1/2 inch gap at the rear lower corners and the front lower corners overlap slightly onto the radiator shell. I read the above post about a sagging frame. Is there anything that can make this fit better? :confused:
 
gtovet49 said:
My '31 coupe has about a 1/2 inch gap at the rear lower corners and the front lower corners overlap slightly onto the radiator shell. I read the above post about a sagging frame. Is there anything that can make this fit better? :confused:
Click to expand...

Most of the time a gap at the bottom rear corners indicates frame sag at the rear motor mounts.:mad:
 
A straight frame is important. If the frame hasn't been straightened shims between the body and frame may help. At the factory, everything just fit without adjustment.
 
Is it OK to put jack stands under the frame at the rear motor mounts and let the car sit for 70 years until the frame straightens? :confused:

Just wonderin'. :eek:
 
I noticed that my frame was sagged and was causing this condition. It was also made worse by over sized shim/pad being paced under the radiator. This lifted the radiator about a 1/4" higher than it was supposed to be The old shims are about 5/16 and the new ones are 1/16-1/8" . I also found a "sag" in the hood, about 1/4". This brings the center of the hood lower and brings the bottom of the into hood into contact with the radiator. Add these three factors together and you've got a seriously misfitted hood.
The fix was to "shrink" the frame somewhat. And to put in the lower shims under the radiator. Thirdly. I still have to fix the hood but that will come soon enough.
Terry
 
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Yes, it's allright, but slow! To replicate all those early bump and ruts, while you have it up on the jackstands, Turn it blue with a torch and the hit it with a cold wet rag, (Like the one you wife uses when you drink too much! LOL) This is called shrinking and it will straighten your frame!
Terry

nhusa said:
Is it OK to put jack stands under the frame at the rear motor mounts and let the car sit for 70 years until the frame straightens? :confused:

Just wonderin'. :eek:
Click to expand...
 
Terry

My wife uses a cast iron pan (AKA Spider) when I do that ..

Good thing I have a hard head.:D
 
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