Holy Grail Banger motor

hotrod937

hotrod937

Member
I have a chance to get a Ford flat4 motor with a "C" cast into the head and a 3 bolt short water pump. I pulled the pan and it's got a counterweight crank. The guy had a bunch of A stuff and some T stuff with some HD trucks. I didn't know to look for the diamond symbol. I looked on the SN plate and there were no numbers.

I am under the impression that this is the holy grail banger with it's counterweight crank. What do you guys know about these?
 
Sounds like a "B" engine ; In my 31 s/w I have a diamond "B" engine with a counter weighted crank shaft manufactured in 1938.Sixty over with inserts. Good "B" engines are hard to find . Definition of good being one that the block is not cracked around the valves as the "B" engines casting is not as thick as the "A" engine in this area. Do a search and you will find a lot of info on "B" engines vs "A" engines .
 
The 1932 through 1934 4 cylinder vehicles were serial numbered on the flywheel housing. The pad was still on the side of the engine but left blank. The "C" on the head was used beginning in 1932 (the "B" letter had already used for the high compression Model A "Police" head). If you really have the short 1933-34 water pump and want to use the engine in a Model A you will need to replace the water pump, timing cover and crank pulley with the parts from 1932. The crank pulley from a Model A can be used as it was the same as the Model B crank pulley.

Charlie Stephens
 
So what's a beat but complete "C" motor worth? Guys asking $600.. Just found out my A motor needs work and I'm looking for one to build. Thinking a pressurized counter weight hunk would be a good start..
 
One other thing, there are two different CW cranks. One has pinned on weights the other is forged with weights. On the first one the weights need to be removed to regrind.
 
The diamond mark is located at the front of the side cover where it meets the little timing gear cover. There is a date cast into the side of the block in front of the fuel pump boss. Diamond blocks are newer and have hard exhaust seats, other than that not much difference. All diamond blocks originally had the "C" crank which is the best one overall to run. $600 is a very decent price.
 
On another post you stated that the engine you looked at had water in the oil . Not good . If the "B" block is cracked around the valves and the crack extends into the cylinder wall you have a problem that will take some seriuos repair effort that may or may not solve the problem . My engine is counter balanced from the factory and has inserts on the rods and babbit on the mains with the original seal system . Runs smooth and strong and no oil leaks. Suggest you do a search on pressurizing the engine.A lot of good info on this subject. I would like to get another car and restore it but I am still negotiating garage space with my wife . At present the negotiations have broken down so in the mean time ( to give me something to do ) I plan to build a "B" engine basically the same as the one I now have except to put a HC "A" head on it ,stipe cam ,be intake and carburator. Still looking for a good "B" block. Might have to go with an " A" block and beef up the lower end .
 
A very well known rebuilder here in Pa, told me that B blocks are very prone to cracking.
Terry
 
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