Holley 94 Modes?

J

jeepguy1948

Well-known member
Per Ron’s suggestions in his book I’m going to be using the stock 94 on my new build for at least the first 500 miles (I also have a 97 and a 48 available to use but Ron seems to favor the 94 which is fine with me). The motor has a Max 1 cam, 8.5:1 heads, 272”, tube headers, Chevy distributor with a Charley conversion so no Load o Matic to deal with. I’m assuming that the cam will create problems with the power valve which I need to know how to deal with and I assume different jets will be required. I have not looked yet to see what valve and jets are in it but I assume stock. I know that it is not unusual to eliminate the PV and upsize the jets and will go with that if it’s the right thing to do. I would need to know how to eliminate it though (I assume the hole must be plugged or something). I also need to know thee BEST place to get any needed pieces. A few years ago I nearly went insane because of a bad PV from Speedway (it was my understanding that at least that time all their power valves were wrong, it wasn’t just the one I had. At that time I tossed it in a corner and put on a 97 I had. I determined that at least on the manifold that I have the carb ports were smaller than the 94’s so I have opened it up. Is dual plane/plenum the way to go or would it be better if I opened it up? I have “cleaned up” the runners as well as matching the ports.
 
What model carb do you have? Only the later 94s would have a larger throttle bore and use different size jets,
 
Holley 2100, maybe it’s not a 94 at all, I just assumed. I know that it has a proper port for the Load-O-Matic distributor (now replaced by SBC unit). It also has LIST 742 on it. Bores are 1.20-1.25” Well by golly whaddya know. So, even with this new information the original questions still stand; Stock Power Valve, Different Power Valve, or NO power valve (and how do I plug the hole?)? What jets would be a good place to start (question applies power valve or no power valve. I may not be the sharpest tool in the shed but I’m old and rusty and I’ve been around, I know that at times it is thought best to eliminate the PV and upsize the jets instead (Ron mentions it in his book but I’ve known about it for years, just never done it). I have no idea when or how this carb got onto the motor, it was there when we bought it 50 years ago (in a ‘51 F-1)
 
Daytona carb is the best place to get carb parts and info Having anAF meter helps Also make sure your air cleaner isn't acting as a choke. Just had that problem, drove me nuts
Gramps
 
I wouldn’t be against buying an AF meter to have around for testing but I wouldn’t permanently install one. Does anybody favor one in particular?
 
Gramps, any guidance you could provide for PV and Jets would be much appreciative. I read about the whole issue in your book but would like to get your input for this particular motor (described in the original post). I am particularly concerned about the PV because of the Max-1 changing the vacuum. It seems to me that with the lower vacuum the PV will be dumping in more fuel. I know that in some cases, ditching the PV and upping the jet size is the way to go. If that is the case here how do I plug the hole? Thanks, Don
 
To be honest, I have no idea what to recommend here. It's been 20 or more years since I did this 20 since my book was written. Back then I would just gran a carb ond bolt it on and fire it up. Read the plucs and take it for a ride. Never used 97's leaked too mich and never ran very well and were quite rare. 97's were all over the place because they never had any problems/ Back then if you bought a car with a Stromberg car on it, you changed it to something else. I still don't use them, their still not a very good carb. More of a statis thing???
 
Sorry I miss spoke there, I don't use the Stromberg, just the Holley 94's I also ran a 2110?????not sure about the number but it has 1 1/16 bores and can control the Loadamatic dist. In my old age I dont find anything wrong with this system. You won't know utill you start tuning. Getting 18.20 MPG and you might think that OK. Lucky Richard Kunc didn't think that way and was getting 22MPG with an L-100 cam I saw an AF reading of almost 16 on this system
G
 
After your 500 mile break-in, my recommendation would be to get a Merc 4-bolt manifold and run a Rochester 2G. Much better design, easy to adjust power valve, and excellent parts support. You'd want the early small-base 2G, it has the same bolt pattern as the Merc manifolds.

I have an Innovate MTX-L AFR mounted and it is invaluable for seeing where your mixtures are.
 
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