Holley 94 carb

Mike/Nebraska

Senior Member
I know this is off topic for a lot of you, but I'm going to put a downdraft intake on my 29 and have a Holley 94 to rebuild and run on it. Does anyone know if it needs to be rejetted for the four cylinder application. I have a rebuilt motor with a B cam and tube header, with a Snyders hi comp. head. I see a lot of Model A's running downdraft carbs with 97's and 94's on them.
 
There are several 97/94 carb rebuilders on the EV8 board who could probably answer this ? for you, probably even recommend jet sizes.
Paul in CT
 
Yes, and it will also need to be tuned with the power valve depending on your combination. I use adjustable jets and had Rudy Faltermeier rebuild all of mine. Most people I know are unsuccessful at rebuilding old carbs in their home garage due to lack of specialized equipment. These carbs are very sensative to internal air/vacuum leaks.

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Brent's right about rebuilding the Holleys at home. You can get a kit for gaskets and springs and stuff, but fine tuning needs specialized equipment. I have Holley 92s, messed around with them for months and finally sent them out to Jere Jobe.
FYI, he put in .042 jets, but that is just part of the tuning. Or jsut run it as is.
 
I think you made the right choice by going with the 94's. I have them on a tri-powered 312 in a '50s Ford and they run great. Also plan to put a single 94 on my next A project.

You can pick up a 94 cheaper than a 97 and for me they are a better carb. I've rebuilt 15-20 of them for various projects and yes they can be a bit finicky, but if you take your time they aren't any different to rebuild than any other carb from the era.
 
You'll need to go to smaller jets. The usual power valve makes an A run rich, as the A doesn't have enough vacuum to shut the power valve off at normal speeds. I plugged mine, and I'm happy with the performance. Good power and 20mpg.
 
You'll need to go to smaller jets. The usual power valve makes an A run rich, as the A doesn't have enough vacuum to shut the power valve off at normal speeds. I plugged mine, and I'm happy with the performance. Good power and 20mpg.

George, I guees I don't understand your comment. I have a selection of Power Valves from 35 all the way up to 95 for the Holley 94s, --which I'm sure you know stands for the amount of vacuum it takes to operate the (i.e: 35 = 3½" vac, 5½ = 5.5", etc.). Every Model A/B that I have played with has at least 3½ inches of vacuum to close the valve as I am accelerating. What am I missing?

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I put a pair of 94's (model 59) on my A and the only change I made was to divide the power valve vacuum rating by 2 and used 3.5's. The only problems I had were, I used three carbs to make two and I swapped out a dinged float for a prettier one and that damn thing leaked, sank and cleaned my cylinders. The next problem was the new improved techy needles and seats argued with me, I used the old steel needles and all was fine.

"Most people I know are unsuccessful at rebuilding old carbs in their home garage due to lack of specialized equipment."

Hell Brent, when I was a kid I used to rebuild my carbs in my bedroom with a screw driver, kitchen knife in a pinch, and a cigarette to blow smoke through the passages. That was my specialized equipment.
 
I put a pair of 94's (model 59) on my A and the only change I made was to divide the power valve vacuum rating by 2 and used 3.5's. The only problems I had were, I used three carbs to make two and I swapped out a dinged float for a prettier one and that damn thing leaked, sank and cleaned my cylinders. The next problem was the new improved techy needles and seats argued with me, I used the old steel needles and all was fine.

"Most people I know are unsuccessful at rebuilding old carbs in their home garage due to lack of specialized equipment."

Hell Brent, when I was a kid I used to rebuild my carbs in my bedroom with a screw driver, kitchen knife in a pinch, and a cigarette to blow smoke through the passages. That was my specialized equipment.

Yes I understand there Milt however the "test of time" had not entered into the equasion then. Plus most people do not use the cigarette trick any longer which severely limits their rebuilding success!;)

In all seriousness, noted carb. rebuilders will tell you that the bases on the majority of these carbs. have warped over time due to the nature of the material and they leak vacuum. Also corrosion from moisture and varnish from dried gasoline plug passages making them still flow air however not send the correct signal. I have seen it over and over where someone will brag how they rebuilt their carburetor(s) with success yet they only thought they had done a good job until ones from Jobe/Faltermeier/et al were installed and they could experience the difference that the machine work, the flow work, and the calibration does to these carbs.

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You need to know the vacuum on the manifold at idle. A power valve is selected partly on this. The power valve is a dump valve that is actuated when the manifold pressure drops suddenly (such as when you open the throttle). If you have poor vacuum and the wrong valve, it may open too soon (like at idle).

I originally had .050 jets and went to .053 for much better performance.

My carb was rebuilt by Vintage Speed http://vintagespeed.com/ They are expensive but they know what they are doing.
 
Mike,

You may want to check with Ken Isidor in CT. He is regular contributer on Fordbarn and may chime in here. I have gotten a couple of carbs from him - very high quality and excellent customer service.
 
You need to know the vacuum on the manifold at idle. A power valve is selected partly on this. The power valve is a dump valve that is actuated when the manifold pressure drops suddenly (such as when you open the throttle). If you have poor vacuum and the wrong valve, it may open too soon (like at idle).

I originally had .050 jets and went to .053 for much better performance.

My carb was rebuilt by Vintage Speed http://vintagespeed.com/ They are expensive but they know what they are doing.

Many of us could debate you with strong bias regarding that statement!!

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Terry,

I can only detail my experience.


And that is fine however Charlie has "soak" me a couple of times, two of my customers that I know about, ...and on H.A.M.B. there is plenty of other comments regarding his deceit and underhanded bahavior! It doesn't take long to search there and find out the truth about him.
 
"Plus most people do not use the cigarette trick any longer which severely limits their rebuilding success!;)"

Youth and stupidity do go hand in hand. I quit the smoke trick when I quit smoking. I figured if I used the trick long enough I wouldn't be able to blow the smoke without hacking all over the carb:eek:. That would compromise the rebuild.

"In all seriousness,"

OK, I confess, I was just pulling your chain a bit;) but, the other reason for the reply was to not allow fear to hold back a budding rebuilder. Who knows, he might wind up giving Vintage a run for their money.:)

"noted carb. rebuilders will tell you that the bases on the majority of these carbs. have warped over time due to the nature of the material and they leak vacuum."

You got to remember when I was a kid 94s were still in production and the only thing considered warped was me. However, these days it is good to note that the carb bases have been through tough times and will require planing with a good file among many other things.


"Also corrosion from moisture and varnish from dried gasoline plug passages making them still flow air however not send the correct signal."

Absolutely, not to mention worn out shafts and bases. I mean, I can't count the times I'd seen thottles depressed rapid fire style:mad: for God knows how long trying to get the car started rather than just fixing the problem. Of course, back then, at 23 cents per gallon who cared.

"I have seen it over and over where someone will brag how they rebuilt their carburetor(s) with success yet they only thought they had done a good job until ones from Jobe/Faltermeier/et al were installed and they could experience the difference that the machine work, the flow work, and the calibration does to these carbs."

Ah, once again, things have come a long way since then. I used Jere Jobes forth method for power valve selection, since I don't happen to have a portable exhaust gas analyzer in my back pocket, and I got very lucky. I could have gone with the "vacuum method" or the "plug 'n play/seat of the pants method" but I used the "best guess" or WAG and nailed it. Minimal skill, maximum luck. As you mentioned before, "the test of time" will tell but so far, so good.:D
 
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Here's a picture of what I have on my 29A with a set of reds headers.
Carb is being rebuilt and I have to use two carbs to make one good one which is no biggy.
My carb Guru will be changing the jets but I'm not sure to what but he's done it before for the same kinda set up.
He also suggested fitting an electric fuel pump as I'm using the original fuel tank location and as more fuel is used theres less pressure (gravity) pushing the fuel through, henc the pump giving a known feed.
Copyofmanifold.jpg
 
forgot to mention that the carb set up like this is a lot higher which also detracts from the gravity fed aspect.
 
I have a 97 on my A, I set up the fuel mixture using an air fuel ratio meter,also it uses the gravity feed.
This took a bit to work out but after 9000klms 7000 towing a camper trailer I,m very pleased with it.
Lawrie

4277864224_5c63ec75c9.jpg

4277118407_fd5ffa5b71.jpg
 
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