Holes in frame webbing

john charlton

Well-known member
Just read my latest "Restorer" on how this is done . I use a different method . I tack the webbing to the frame . I heat a marlin spike to smoking hot and push
it through the webbing . It pushes through easily and leaves a nice sealed hole no raggedy edges A marlin spike is used to splice wire rope a fid is wood and splices nylon etc etc .

Johnin Suffolk County England
 
I'm originally from the west coast of British Columbia and for sure i know what a marlin spike is. that's logger country out there.
it's such a handy tool i have 3 sizes and use them a lot but ive never spliced a cable.
 
Since I don't have a Marlinspike, we find it just as easy just to clamp the anti-squeak to the rail and then use a small sharpened piece of EMT conduit to cut the hole(s). Use a small propane torch to heat the end of the conduit and then sear a hole with a quick twist of the pipe. For as often (-or as infrequent) as this is done, no need to over-complicate, ...so if you use a Marlinspike and it works well, then that should be the 'approved method'! :D
 
Alright, alright. I had to say it. I had to look up what a marlinspike is.

I can't be the only dummy.

A marlinspike is a tapered, pointed metal tool, typically 6–12 inches long (or larger), used in maritime, arboriculture, and crafting for splicing rope, untying tight knots, and loosening fiber strands. It is indispensable for opening laid lines, managing wire rope, and creating leverage in knots like the marlinspike hitch.

Marlinspikes are usually about 6–12 inches (15–30 cm) long but may reach 2 feet (61 cm) or more when used for working heavy cables and ropes. They are usually made from iron or steel, whereas fids, similar in shape and function, are formed from wood or bone. Historically a separate tool, the marlinspike is integrated in specialized versions of folding rigging knives and pocket knives.

Sailors who become proficient at knot tying, splicing, and sewing using the marlinspike are said to have mastered marlinespike seamanship, earning them the right to be known as marlin spikes or marlinspike seamen.
 
My .02 cents, tried burning sample hole with soldering iron but not sucessful.
Went this route
-Cut frame welting to proper length
-Positioned welting and secured with painters tape
-Used permanent marker to locate holes from underside frame rail
-Removed and punched various sized holes with the Harbor Freight Assorted
punch set (BTW, Harbor Freight is where you purchase cheaper Chinese tools
you don’t very often)
- fraying? Yes a bit, just use a hardwood like maple or oak to back up punch to
get a cleaner hole
 
I use the rounded end of a ball peen hammer to outline the holes in the webbing, then use leather punches to punch the holes. Good sharp punches will cleanly cut the webbing without fraying. I use binder clamps to hold the webbing in place while I mark it.
 
I use the rounded end of a ball peen hammer to outline the holes in the webbing, then use leather punches to punch the holes. Good sharp punches will cleanly cut the webbing without fraying. I use binder clamps to hold the webbing in place while I mark it.

Yuppers. Perzactly the way I did it. No muss...no fuss.
 
I clamp the webbing to the frame, place the ball on a ball peen hammer over the holes and hit the hammer with another to punch out the webbing. This technique is simple and it works with no special tools or fancy process.
 
I clamp the webbing to the frame, place the ball on a ball peen hammer over the holes and hit the hammer with another to punch out the webbing. This technique is simple and it works with no special tools or fancy process.

I've been told to never strike a hardened hammer with another hardened hammer as it can shatter. So, in the interest of safety either use a brass or lead hammer for the second hammer and/or wear good safety glasses or better yet a safety face shield!
 
A set of hole punches comes in handy for this and many other uses, such as if you need to make a gasket.
 
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