Hoisting my 8ba

1

1950F1

Member
I have basic question about lifting my assembled 8ba. It is curently on a conventional engine stand (rear mount) and it makes me so nervous to have all that weight out there I've had the front supported by my engine hoist while assembling the long block. I have a conventional hoist with chain and want to know the best place to attatch the chain for lifting and setting engine on a wood cradle until installation. The 8ba heads been assembled with studs so I can not use the head bolts since the heads are on it and there is not enough threads. I have no lifting plate. How about the exhaust holes with grade 8's? Thanks, Carl
 
You can try using the left front bolt and the right rear bolt on the intake manifold. Or just take off the intake manifold and put a piece of cardboard over the valley opening and then use different bolts.
Remember, Henry built these things beyond expectations ---

Using the exhaust holes will scratch your paint job and also be difficult to use when installing the engine in the vehicle.
 
Hi Carl,I don't see any reason why you couldn't use the exhaust mounting holes.....I would make a lifting strap out of 1/4 or3/8 plate .....bolt one end to the block and the other end would have a hole large enough to hook your chain or rope into.Also you could bend the strap so it will be pulling straight up

Joe
 
Ford actually made a gizmo that sits in the lifter valley to pick up flatties with - the old F-barn had listings of vendors, one of which had one I believe, and I'm trying to remember who. - CRS!!!!

I've looked for it on the I-net but I've come up empty - anyone?
 
1950F1 said:
I have basic question about lifting my assembled 8ba. It is curently on a conventional engine stand (rear mount) and it makes me so nervous to have all that weight out there I've had the front supported by my engine hoist while assembling the long block. I have a conventional hoist with chain and want to know the best place to attatch the chain for lifting and setting engine on a wood cradle until installation. The 8ba heads been assembled with studs so I can not use the head bolts since the heads are on it and there is not enough threads. I have no lifting plate. How about the exhaust holes with grade 8's? Thanks, Carl
Click to expand...
You need the flat head engine adaptor that uses the side exhaut bolts your goingto end up breaking the bellhousing gooluk.
 
I always do it the way Nelsbo1 suggests.
"You can try using the left front bolt and the right rear bolt on the intake manifold."
 
Carl,
I use 2 long nylon slings around the oil pan. They don't scratch anything. My 8ba was complete on the stand and this works great for me.
 
I bought a lifting device to distribute the weight and angle the engine. The heads were on and torqued. I just needed to renove and retorque the 4 bolts with thread sealer. Here is the engine going in with the OD trans attached. I dropped the idler arm and steering arm so the tie rod was out of the way.
PA280043.jpg
 
Flathead Jack makes/sells a lifting plate that has an attaching point for the hoist chain and bolts to the top of the block.
 
Go out back and chop down three poles about 12 feet long. Wrap a chain around them and set them up over the engine. Go down to the barn and get the chainfall and hook it into the tripod. Wrap a chain around the engine somewhere where it won't slip and pick her up.............
 
I've hoisted a bunch of flatheads, oft with practically no special gear when I was young and poor.
My recs:
The KRW lift hookerupper that goes into valley and locks with just pins that drop into crossover holes. Available in repro...Ford obsolete in Rosemead california has them.
Snap, click, done. Excellent, highly convenient.
Manifold surface, simple or elaborate. I prefer a plate over direct hook to bolts because of angle...simple, just find a piece of scrap steel big enough to span about 4 bolt holes just out from center of manifold suface, drill center for an eye bolt
Fancy...cut a bigger plate to shape approximating whole intake gasket. Now it serves as a cover too, so crud and stray hardware don't get in, and you have room for two eyebolt locations...one goes at midpoint to lift engine alone, one a couple inches aft of center to balance engine and trans together.
Another very good way if you can get hold of good nylon web lifting straps...put on stock exhaust manifolds, wrap straps around fronts and rears of manifolds to form an X, your hook goes to the center of the X. Can be done with stout rope, if you are skilled at securing it well.
 
I use head bolt holes. Just get a couple of longer bolts and use them instead of the actual head bolts.
 
This is the hot ticket. This is a reproduction of an original Ford dealership tool made by K.R. Wilson. You lower the tool into the lifter valley and then rotate it 90 degrees and drop the pins into the heat riser passages locking it into place It takes less than five-seconds, the engine is perfectly balanced and there is no chance of scratching anything with a chain. I believe it is made from cast ductile iron so it should be strong enough

I bought this tool a few years ago at the Antique Nationals here in CA. I believe the guy selling them owns Specialty Ford Parts. He also sells an engine stand adaptor that bolts to the exhaust manifold bolts like the original Ford dealership stands do.

Specialty Ford Parts
9103 Garvey Ave
Rosemead, CA
(626) 288-3311
 

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billwill said:
You need the flat head engine adaptor that uses the side exhaut bolts your goingto end up breaking the bellhousing gooluk.
Click to expand...

Horseshit... It's an short-housing 8ba. And... has anyone here ever seen a broken earlier block from being mounted on a traditional engine stand? Just curious...

Anyhow, just pick it up by the intake bolt holes. Works fine for me.:cool:
 
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