Hoist for T Bird hardtop

[slumlord44]

Working on putting together a hoist for the hardtop on my '57 T Bird. Bought a small electric hoist from Harbor Freight . Looking at geting. the part that holds the top from one of T Bird parts suppliers or making on myself. Suggestions from someone who has been there and done this? Found some complete power systems on line but they are expensive. Got $75 in the power hoist so far.

 

[dmsfrr]

When supporting a load overhead the key operative word for the hardware and support points is Overkill, more really is better, not a place to cut corners.
Everything should be rated for about 5 times the supported weight. It's better than having the top fall and take someone out on it's way to the floor.

 

[slumlord44]

The electric hoist is rated at 400 pounds. That should be more than adequate. I always tend to over engineer things.

 

[dmsfrr]

The electric hoist is rated at 400 pounds. That should be more than adequate. I always tend to over engineer things.

That's a good plan.
I don't have an attic over the garage so everything mounts below the ceiling.
Consider the rating of any pulleys and whatever screws and bolts fasten them onto the support structure you have. I don't trust the small-ish screw hooks I've seen in some kits to put a hanging pulley on the ceiling.

As an example: This is a 480# rated pulley, bolted to a 2x6 with a 3/8 eye bolt with washers and nut on the top side. It's held to two ceiling joists with four 1/4 x 5 lag screws.
The lift line is vinyl covered 1/8 inch aircraft cable.
.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Another thing is to think of safety catches so if you leave the top hanging you can lock it in place just incase something were to fail and if it tried to drop the safety will lock in and keep it from dropping. Could be something as simple as a bolt or a chain attached to the lifting cable/chain or what ever you are using that would prevent a total fall to the ground.

To stop the old heavy springs from doing damage to the bikes in our garage as we refuse to remodel to roll up doors we ran a chain down the middle of the spring and used lag bolts to the framework so if the spring while fully tensioned were to go the chain would keep it contained in place vs flying and hitting a bike in the garage or worse yet hitting the hot water heater.

Safeties are good things to have when dealing with any kind of load.

 

[y'sguy]

I've done this with the same winch you describe. It was in my last Attic/Garage before we moved to our new location.
I kept all the rigging etc. and moved it to my new location.
I will try to get some pictures of it up soon, although I haven't re-Installed it at our new location.
Two keys to this project I think are having ONE: ability to have side to side movement to align the lifting mechanism for your top. This way when you drive your car under it you don't have to line up, spot on.
TWO: use a lifting bar underneath the top on the side pins. This will avoid distorting the top when it's hung for a long length of time.
I'm really happy with the way mine functions. I feel very confident on it's safety. I also built almost all of it from stuff I had laying around my garage, but even so buying all the stuff new won't be much cost at all. the winch will be the bulk of it.
Mine is mounted on small angle iron tracks in my attic floor and the cable runs thru a slot I cut in the ceiling. I doubled the cable back to the winch, this slows down the speed and increases the lifting capacity. You don't need anymore capacity really but slower is a more comfortable speed I think and does it perfectly fine.
This has increased the "top-off" option on my car many times over! And it's a one person job. I also rigged safety straps from the ceiling to store it over a long time.
Only problem is I have to get busy and complete the resto on my soft top!.
Pictures soon, I promise.

 

[slumlord44]

Looking foreward to seeing photos. From what you are saying I think I can build something stronger and safer than what I can buy. Seeing what you did will make it easier. No need to totaly re invent the wheel. Has anyone lengthened the remote control cable on this power lift? I've seen complaints that it needs to be longer.

 

[Grumpy Rick]

One problem I have had with the heavier version of this lift is the up/down switch. It sometimes sticks on, and sometimes won't connect at all. I keep it unplugged when not using it.

I also look forward to seeing home built lifts, as I am i the process of building a new garage that will take one.

 

[y'sguy]

I don't have pics of the actual hoist motor as it is not reinstalled as yet.It will be sitting on 1" angle iron tracks bolted to the floor of my attic. the cable runs thru a slot I will cut in the floor and thru the sheet rock. This allows the cable to hang down thru the slot and travel side to side a few feet to allow easy centering of the cable and hook. You will have to find your own spot for the forward and back position.
I also use a swivel Pulley with a ****** block I got at harbor freight because it allows me to rotate the top and get it very close to the ceiling, allowing me more space. (I do have a 9' garage ceiling too.) I could have mounted the winch up on the ceilingbut wasn't comfortable with having to find a safe way to anchor all the weight hanging down. You could mount it off to the side on the wall and use addition pulleys too. I just didn't. plus it would take a little more engineering and parts to get it to travel side to side.

*If you decide to build this. you are on your own! This is the way I chose to do mine and hold no responsibility for whatever foolish things you are thinking about doing!

 

[y'sguy]

One more thing about the remote, It is long enough for my use. I don't see whay you couldn't lengthen it though.
Hope this make sense. If not ask away.

 

[y'sguy]

Almost forgot !
To use this, lower the winch and Rig down close to your hardtop. If you don't trust the rig lay a heavy blanket down first. Then uncouple the one cable end and push the long tube thru the window opening to the other side and let it rest on the garnish rail.
Then unlatch all of the top latches. Lift the top up enough that the rear back latches rest on top of the receiver thingies.
Lift up one corner of the top where a side pin is and drop the pin in the hole. Go to the other side of the car and do the same with that pin.
You might want to bump up the tension on the winch cable at this point if necessary. Then attach the front and back balance straps or hooks. You will need to adjust these somewhat to get the top to level out some the first time.

Have to say this thing works awesome for me. I've owned my bird since 1967. I only got this going for me a few years ago and It works perfectly