Hinge pins

Benson! I've heard of Arpanet but never met anyone who actually used it. It was only active in about 4 or 5 western cities as I recall. It was followed by the expanded Darpa IIRC That's interesting about the sizes. Thanks for sharing!
Terry
 
vern hodgson said:
Did you ever get your hinge pin removed? And if so by what means?
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Vern, No I didn't! Rather than ruin the hinge mountings from hitting it too much or fooling around with more tooling, I'm gonna leave it alone. They're really in there! I used ATF w/acetone, nothing! I have a set of pin drifts from my toolmaking days and a 2 lb hammer that I could not budge them with. I then tried to take the hinges off and the screws cannot be turned. So I'll just work around it and do the car with the doors on it. I don't like it, but what else is there?
Terry
 
If you don't have to worry about damaging paint , I heat the cowl half of hinge red hot where the pins go through . Heating red hot expands the hinge so that the pins can be more easy to remove . If failed attempts have been made at driving the hinge pin out from the bottom , the pin is probably expanded . This is why I prefer drilling the pin part way out from the top side and driving the remainder of the pin out from the top side .
 
I recently had great, even dramatic success using an air hammer with a punch attachment. I had tried a couple of the c-clamp type tools and had soaked the pins/hinges in Kroil for two weeks prior to making the first effort. Could not get the pins to budge with those but the air hammer worked like magic! Suggestions: cover the surrounding body areas with something to protect it, and drop the air pressure down to about 50 pounds. We started off with too much pressure and couldn't control the punch.
 
Oldwanus Eddie said:
I recently had great, even dramatic success using an air hammer with a punch attachment. I had tried a couple of the c-clamp type tools and had soaked the pins/hinges in Kroil for two weeks prior to making the first effort. Could not get the pins to budge with those but the air hammer worked like magic! Suggestions: cover the surrounding body areas with something to protect it, and drop the air pressure down to about 50 pounds. We started off with too much pressure and couldn't control the punch.
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X-2, that's what I did, well worth the 19.95$ for an air hammer kit.
 
Air hammer works good, but when all fails and it comes time to drill one of these works great https://www.ebay.com/itm/7PCS-Self-...le-Saw-Tool-/253645100578?hash=item3b0e6d1622


This tool has changed my whole outlook on drilling out studs in delicate situations. It would be best to replace the drill bit with a quality one to make it work even better. It works so good that I have purchased a few of them and given them to friends that do the same sort of things like I do. And for the price it can't be beat, even when you use it for its intended use of drilling hinge holes!
 
Oldwanus Eddie said:
I recently had great, even dramatic success using an air hammer with a punch attachment. I had tried a couple of the c-clamp type tools and had soaked the pins/hinges in Kroil for two weeks prior to making the first effort. Could not get the pins to budge with those but the air hammer worked like magic! Suggestions: cover the surrounding body areas with something to protect it, and drop the air pressure down to about 50 pounds. We started off with too much pressure and couldn't control the punch.
Click to expand...



Can you post a picture or link to the air hammer and bits you used?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My son and I built a 30 CCPU from parts collected from Sammy Guthries "bone yard". The cab was off an AA tanker truck which was restored with a much better cab . The cab was in dire state and the pins were frozen solid so I drilled,heated etc etc to no avail . I could see I was on a hiding to nowhere (English saying) and was beginning to disturb the hinge pillar connection .So I bit the bullet and with a thin cutting disc I cut a slot in the hinge and with a chisel I slightly opened it up and the pins then punched out .After the doors were off I ground a flat and migged the slot closed then with the deft use of my trusty angle grinder with a flapper disc the repair could not be seen . Doors went back OK but one pin migrates upwards over time but that will be an easy fix .

John in Suffolk County England .
 
Our local club had a work day last weekend, and we removed hinge pins on a Tudor sedan. The owner had soaked the hinges with kroil for several days. When a hammer and punch didn’t work, we used an air hammer and the pins popped right out.
 
john charlton said:
My son and I built a 30 CCPU from parts collected from Sammy Guthries "bone yard". The cab was off an AA tanker truck which was restored with a much better cab . The cab was in dire state and the pins were frozen solid so I drilled,heated etc etc to no avail . I could see I was on a hiding to nowhere (English saying) and was beginning to disturb the hinge pillar connection .So I bit the bullet and with a thin cutting disc I cut a slot in the hinge and with a chisel I slightly opened it up and the pins then punched out .After the doors were off I ground a flat and migged the slot closed then with the deft use of my trusty angle grinder with a flapper disc the repair could not be seen . Doors went back OK but one pin migrates upwards over time but that will be an easy fix .

John in Suffolk County England .
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I think these were those ones Dad. They weren't coming out any other way

P1100702.jpg
 
For my 30 standard coupe, I've removed my pins with a bit of difficulty and found the drill both sides method, then punch through works best. The "C" clamp shaped press was a waste money! Once I examined the removed pins, I found they were misshaped which adds to the problem of pushing them out without relieving resistance by drilling first.

Does anyone have a surefire means of selecting replacement pins? Some sample pins I purchased of different diameters fit holes in some of my hinges and not in others. Since all hinges are removed from the body and doors, it will be easy for me to drill the same size holes in all hinges and use the same size pins. Can any of you provide what worked uniformly for you as to size of drill bit and hinge diameter? Second question - any benefit of using stainless pins versus steel? I'm not concerned over the authenticity, rather am focusing on the functionality. My thanks.
 
Purdy Swoft said:
If you don't have to worry about damaging paint , I heat the cowl half of hinge red hot where the pins go through . Heating red hot expands the hinge so that the pins can be more easy to remove . If failed attempts have been made at driving the hinge pin out from the bottom , the pin is probably expanded . This is why I prefer drilling the pin part way out from the top side and driving the remainder of the pin out from the top side .
Click to expand...
This method worked on 1 stubborn pin that I could not remove.
 
Conaway2 said:
Our local club had a work day last weekend, and we removed hinge pins on a Tudor sedan. The owner had soaked the hinges with kroil for several days. When a hammer and punch didn’t work, we used an air hammer and the pins popped right out.
Click to expand...

That way has worked for me !
 
Paragon said:
For my 30 standard coupe, I've removed my pins with a bit of difficulty and found the drill both sides method, then punch through works best. The "C" clamp shaped press was a waste money! Once I examined the removed pins, I found they were misshaped which adds to the problem of pushing them out without relieving resistance by drilling first.

Does anyone have a surefire means of selecting replacement pins? Some sample pins I purchased of different diameters fit holes in some of my hinges and not in others. Since all hinges are removed from the body and doors, it will be easy for me to drill the same size holes in all hinges and use the same size pins. Can any of you provide what worked uniformly for you as to size of drill bit and hinge diameter? Second question - any benefit of using stainless pins versus steel? I'm not concerned over the authenticity, rather am focusing on the functionality. My thanks.
Click to expand...

Didn't know there were different sized pins other than straight vs. slant window. On a '30 I had I used the straight window pins. Did a clean-up drilling. Then I used the appropriate thickness shim stock to make a shim for the new hole to allow a couple thousandths clearance.
 
This is an old post but I will hopefully help someone in the future. For over 60 years I have been dealing with this problem of removing pins, screws etc that do not want to move. I have tried about every means to get the task done. When it comes to the final option of drilling them out, there has been the fight of getting the hole where you want it. A couple of years ago I was watching a Youtube video of various methods and there was one particular tool that impressed me and it was inexpensive. It is used to drill guide holes for hinge screws, but the presenter said it was the best drill aligner he had ever come across, I agree also. The first thing you need to do when you get one is scrap the cheap drill bit that comes with it and replace it with a quality bit. In the past few years I have used it a number of times with success. Here is a link to the tool. Best of luck

https://www.ebay.com/itm/15pcs-Self...=4017833568002f37bae7a0ec408c830c8d0b14cf6a4b
 
Stainless steel pins are available oversize at 0.245". I used a 0.250 reamer to size the holes in my hinges as they had some wear. I suggest a reamer rather than a drill bit as the size will be more precise. I also machined the top side of each door side of my hinges for a thin nylon washer to eliminate the metal to metal contact which is a source for chipped paint and rust and makes the operation smoother.
 
Hey desotoguy, that was the information I was seeking. I understand the location where you place the thin nylon washer. Could you send a picture? My care is a user, not a point car and I like your suggestion. Thanks!
 
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