Hinge pin removal tips and questions

[pgerhardt]

I then did what usually works best for me when I am a bit frustrated. I simply put the task aside for a bit. I added more penetrating oil and I have also ordered one of the other type extraction tools to add to my growing parts bin of tools I'll likely only use once in a lifetime.

Give it another squirt every evening until you tackle it again with the new tool.

BTW I was not worried about chipping the paint since the reason for taking off the doors was to bring them down to my shop for refinishing over the winter.

 

[coupe1942]

You'll have less chance of damaging anything using the drill method (as long as your vision is good). The tools all have a higher percentage of chipping the paint when pressure is applied

You have actually touched on a real problem for me, as my vision is not quite as good as it used to be. Plus, my hinges are a dark black color which makes looking at the pin from the bottom a little tricky. Even with a light shining down there, it is a bit difficult for me to see exactly dead center in the pin area.

I did have to replace both the allen head screws that came with the mirror from Snyder's as they both seemed to be too small in length to catch correctly and to keep the mirror base from swinging out away from the foor hinge. I used a couple of longer ones and they seem to work just fine, so far.

I am content to put this project on hold until the new tool arrives. My hand shakes enough that drilling from the underside of the hinge is not something i want to do just yet. I'll go that route after I give the new tool a try though. I just had a bad experience with a drill when doing a diy project on my hall closet. My hand started shaking on me and the drill bit went off center before I could stop it. I don't want that to happen on my truck hinge, so I'll use that as a last resort method to try if the new tool does not do the trick. In the meantime, more oil and a fresh batch of curse words are in store.

 

[CarlG]

... I did have to replace both the allen head screws that came with the mirror from Snyder's as they both seemed to be too small in length to catch correctly and to keep the mirror base from swinging out away from the foor hinge. I used a couple of longer ones and they seem to work just fine, so far...

I had to do the same thing. True Value Hardware to the rescue!

 

[coupe1942]

Unfortunately, ACE didn't have but one in the size I needed, but Tractor Supply Company had them.
Well, after much cursing and a lot of sweat and frayed nerves, I finally got that passenger side hinge pin to come out today. I had received the second hinge pin removal tool from Snyder's late yesterday, so I tried it out when I got back today from the Shawnee car show.

At first I bent one more removal pin with it too, but then I got my wife to watch the end at the bottom of the pin to ensure the removal pin didn't move off center from the hinge pin. (Hard for me to see since it is painted a dark black color). I used a breaker bar and a crescent wrench and I held my tongue between my teeth as I turned both bolts slowly to cinch up on that pin. Well, it worked and the pin came out okay. I put in more penetrating oil to the opening so the new pin may go in smoothly when I am ready to install the new mirror. Too hot and humid to stay out there right now and finish it all off.

I'll have to get my wife to hold the door and keep the hinge centered as I punch in the new pin to install the mirror, but I am happy with my accomplishment at the moment. It has been a really good day for me.

I had driven this truck in the Main Street cruise last night, in Ada, OK. It took a full 30 minutes or more to make one pass down that street at the creep and stop manner they were going. I had a blast in the car though, but it would have been better if my mirrors had been on. I like to be able to see behind me, for sure.

Thanks for all the tips and support.

 

[Pilotdave]

Good for you! I've been following this thread as I have some VERY reluctant hinge pins as well.

 

[mleder]

I found that kroil used for a week before the project and then an air hammer with a punch bit that I put in the lathe to make it just slightly smaller than the ID of the hinge hole. From the bottom holding very tight against the pin and then pulling the trigger for a short burst . Hold tight then short burst a few times and then they were out. This was on a 31 slant window which has a larger pin then the rest of the cars. In theory that pin has more surface area and if rusted is a bigger problem than the regular hinge pin size. You must hold very tight before and during the trigger squeeze.

 

[Mitch//pa]

I'm not a fan of taking an air hammer to the hinge.. It can jar and twist the hinge especially at the door shell mountings.....

 

[5window]

I'm not a fan of taking an air hammer to the hinge.. It can jar and twist the hinge especially at the door shell mountings.....

At the end of the day, there aren't too many things that benefit from taking an air hammer to them. Generally, slow and steady is a much better way that preserves the parts and give you a better feel for the project.

 

[duke36]

Went thru a similar process with SW hinges. One suggestion if not already done is to dry fit the new pins in the male portion (on the body jamb) for any slop.
Hopefully the old pins were worn rather than the hinge hole.