High Compression Head

[Kevin in NZ]

Help... I have just fitted a A6010HC cylinder head (5.5comp ratio) with the recommended stud & nut set A6066SHD with recommended washers B6063. My problem is that approx only 1/3 of the stud is in the nut and with the washers removed only 1/2 to 3/4 of the thread is in the nut. It appears that the studs are incorrect and are to short. Has anyone had this problem ???

 

[James Rogers]

If the 6010HC is a Snyder HC head I can tell you what you need. First you don't need and shouldn't use washers. I don't know what you mean about them being recommended but don't use them. No flathead I have ever installed needed washers under the nuts. Set the studs at 2 3/4" from the block to the top of the stud and add 1/8" because the head is thicker by that much. The two front studs for the water outlet should be 5" plus 1/8" added also. The #8 stud for the ignition clamp probably will screw all the way down and be alright but may need to be set at 3 1/16" to be correct. This should set the studs so that only 1 or 2 threads will be above the nut. The studs don't need to be screwed all the way to the bottom of the hole to be effective.

Hope this helps. I have installed probably 30 or more of these heads and this is the general procedure I use.

 

[TinCup]

I cut three pieces of copper pipe one is 2 3/4" the next is 5"and the other is 3 1/16". I then soldered them together. I now have a one piece tool to set the studs. James is correct on the dimensions for the Snyders Head. I have never seen a head mounted with washers.

 

[J and M Machine]

Kevin: We have been told that there was a problem with a batch of heads and it has now been corrected. We have run into this issue also. It's not a problem of the stud it is issue with the head.
You have to remove the head and machine the stud bosses .050" of an inch and you will have the nut flush with the top of the stud.
Washers aren't needed.

Also the studs "Do need to be screwed all the way "in to be effective in order to gain the most pulling power when you torque it.

 

[Ray in La Mesa]

You can also cut short pieces of rod to serve as spacers at the bottom of the stud holes so you can tighten the studs and still have the height you need.

 

[Purdy Swoft]

The only head that would need washers would be an aluminum head. Washers would help prevent the harder steel nuts from digging in to the softer aluminum head. Otherwise, I agree with J and M Machine. This came up when the Snyders 6.0 head was first introduced. It was said that the longer ignition cable studs could be used and would solve the problem. The longer ignition studs are only offered in grade five hardness, as far as I know.. I have used grade five studs in two of my engines with 5.9 heads with NO problems, one of these engines has run with grade five studs for 14 years with the 5.9 head and NO problems. If you plan to use the grade 8 studs, if you don't have a source to machine the stud bosses on the head, you will have to do as James Rogers and Tin Cup have stated.

 

[carnut]

If you instull a bolt or stud the dept of it diamiter,that is as strong as it can be.

 

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Man, I can not believe what I am hearing on here! A head that is made wrong, and some answers of help are to keep cobbling the process to make incorrectly made parts useable, with out fixing the offending Part. When you do not use all the stud area in the block, and the bolt sholder does not tighten to the block, you are creating another weak link in the chain, and as some are engine builders, common sense should play a part some place in a simple problem like this. So common sense should rule, do not mess with the studs, like CARNUT said, thats your best strength. We have taken motors apart, that studs were put back in a stud hole, that was half filed with rust, you would think that it would just pull threads, but they pulled a chunk of the block with it, as you would be pulling Shallow on the top of the block, rather then Deeper in the block, and I have seen cracks coming from the holes, Many times, for the same reasons. You got two choices with the head, send it back, or as J & M Machine said, and which is the only other choice, reduce the stud bosses. I also think if the head is off that far, what would be happening the the fit of the distributor shaft being to short for a proper connection. Herm.

 

[Kevin in NZ]

Help... I have just fitted a A6010HC cylinder head (5.5comp ratio) with the recommended stud & nut set A6066SHD with recommended washers B6063. My problem is that approx only 1/3 of the stud is in the nut and with the washers removed only 1/2 to 3/4 of the thread is in the nut. It appears that the studs are incorrect and are to short. Has anyone had this problem ???

Thank you everone for your very helpfull replies. see below cut & paste from Mac's web site re washers,

NOTE: It can only be used with a B-6051-M, B-6051-C or B-6051-S head gasket - you can not use a stock Model A head gasket. You will also need to use the A6066SHD high compression stud & nut set and 14 B6063 washers, available from MAC's Antique Auto Parts, when installing a higher compression head.

I have since removed the new studs and they are about 1/2" shorter. I will refit to suggested measurements, loctite and refit, THANKS AGAIN.

 

[just plain bill]

Thank you everone for your very helpfull replies. see below cut & paste from Mac's web site re washers,

NOTE: It can only be used with a B-6051-M, B-6051-C or B-6051-S head gasket - you can not use a stock Model A head gasket. You will also need to use the A6066SHD high compression stud & nut set and 14 B6063 washers, available from MAC's Antique Auto Parts, when installing a higher compression head.

I have since removed the new studs and they are about 1/2" shorter. I will refit to suggested measurements, loctite and refit, THANKS AGAIN.

Old saying, " Damn, I have cut some off twice and it is still too short"

 

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Thank you everone for your very helpfull replies. see below cut & paste from Mac's web site re washers,

NOTE: It can only be used with a B-6051-M, B-6051-C or B-6051-S head gasket - you can not use a stock Model A head gasket. You will also need to use the A6066SHD high compression stud & nut set and 14 B6063 washers, available from MAC's Antique Auto Parts, when installing a higher compression head.

I have since removed the new studs and they are about 1/2" shorter. I will refit to suggested measurements, loctite and refit, THANKS AGAIN.

Mac's say washers for High compression Aluminum heads! Herm

 

[Bob C]

They also show washers for the cast iron head, maybe a mistake.
http://macsautoparts.com/model-a-mo...-style-a6010hcp/camid/MDA/cp/JS0R3CHL1096391/

Bob

 

[dustyp489]

I installed a DanPrice head and had the same problem , I was told to replace the studs with ARP studs that are 1/4 inch longer so now I have 3 threats above the nut and full depht in my Block and using washers as stated

Skip

 

[Craig Lewis]

I had the same issue with Brumfield studs and a police head. After final torque, most of the studs were recessed into the nut.
Moreover, the studs came with "cupped" ends rather that domed.
In an effort to make the domed ends & correct original height, here's what I did.

 

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

I had the same issue with Brumfield studs and a police head. After final torque, most of the studs were recessed into the nut.
Moreover, the studs came with "cupped" ends rather that domed.
In an effort to make the domed ends & correct original height, here's what I did.

They look very nice Craig. Herm.

 

[hardtimes]

Man, I can not believe what I am hearing on here! A head that is made wrong, and some answers of help are to keep cobbling the process to make incorrectly made parts useable, with out fixing the offending Part. When you do not use all the stud area in the block, and the bolt sholder does not tighten to the block, you are creating another weak link in the chain, and as some are engine builders, common sense should play a part some place in a simple problem like this. So common sense should rule, do not mess with the studs, like CARNUT said, thats your best strength. We have taken motors apart, that studs were put back in a stud hole, that was half filed with rust, you would think that it would just pull threads, but they pulled a chunk of the block with it, as you would be pulling Shallow on the top of the block, rather then Deeper in the block, and I have seen cracks coming from the holes, Many times, for the same reasons. You got two choices with the head, send it back, or as J & M Machine said, and which is the only other choice, reduce the stud bosses. I also think if the head is off that far, what would be happening the the fit of the distributor shaft being to short for a proper connection. Herm.

I'm with you on this...'cobbled' thing! When I spend as many thousands dollars as is required these days to make an A/B engine ..for the long run. I'll be damned if any such cobbling would even be considered. I've also seen 'chunks' of block pulled up and cracks around ill fitting and/or ill fitted studs. The idea that someone would even consider cobbling as ok..is scary!

 

[George Miller]

Help... I have just fitted a A6010HC cylinder head (5.5comp ratio) with the recommended stud & nut set A6066SHD with recommended washers B6063. My problem is that approx only 1/3 of the stud is in the nut and with the washers removed only 1/2 to 3/4 of the thread is in the nut. It appears that the studs are incorrect and are to short. Has anyone had this problem ???

The rule is a stud should be in the block one and a half times the dia. of the stud. 21/32. The last thing you would want to do is not screw the stud in far enough. The treads in a lot of these old blocks are not that good anyway.

 

[CarlG]

I installed a DanPrice head and had the same problem , I was told to replace the studs with ARP studs that are 1/4 inch longer so now I have 3 threats above the nut and full depht in my Block and using washers as stated

Skip

Do you have the ARP part number for these studs? I tried to buy some from them and of course got some one that barely knew what a stud was. (Might as well been at Best Buy).

 

[George Miller]

7/16 deep is not enough because you do not have 7/16 of metal in the block holding. You have about 7/16 of a inch of threads holding.Remember there is a gap between each thread. That is why the rule 1 1/2 times the dia.

 

[Mikeinnj]

One would think that the designer/seller of an expensive and popular performance product would advise their customers before or at the time of purchase, what to expect when installing their product. Could the problem be that the casting was incorrect and the maker decided to just go ahead and put it on the market and let the customer look for a fix ? I have had one of these hi comp heads sitting on the bench for six months and am almost ready to install it in my rebuilt engine and now I learn that I have to invent a work around to fit something that was not made properly ? I agree that not bottoming the studs in the block is the wrong way to "fix" this problem.