High Comp Head Issue

Kpar

Kpar

Senior Member
Just installed a 5.5:1 Snyders Head to my 1930 pickup. Not even out of the driveway and realized I should have done it years ago.
Now for my little winge. I also purchased the recommended studs, nuts & correct gasket then found I was unable to get a full nut on the stud. My mate also had the same problem some time back.
has anybody else experienced this issue ?.
 
I have found there is no problem with the heads or studs but, the instasllers are just running the studs all the way in. Les Andrews book indicates, the studs are to be left at 2.750" from the block to the last thread, the #8 stud 2 29/32" and, the 2 long studs at 5". This will leave about 1 or 2 threads above the nut.
 
I have been doing as Mr. Rogers suggests for several engines and without a problem. I also put a small amount of red permatex on the bottom 2-3 threads of the stud. No weeping.
 
Kpar said:
Just installed a 5.5:1 Snyders Head to my 1930 pickup. Not even out of the driveway and realized I should have done it years ago.
Now for my little winge. I also purchased the recommended studs, nuts & correct gasket then found I was unable to get a full nut on the stud. My mate also had the same problem some time back.
has anybody else experienced this issue ?.
Click to expand...

Yes we have Kpar: Actually there are two previous links to this subject somewhere on this forum.
I wouldn't recommend unscrewing the studs as you need full engagement in the stud and block to keep and maintain the required torque.
I have actually machined the stud pads of the head down about 1/16" and that has worked sufficiently to get full engagement with the nuts.
Furthermore the same will need to be done for the water neck boss as that is high as well.

I would recommend that you retorque the head a few times as the new gasket will crush and needs to be rechecked frequently then later on periodically.

www.jandm-machine.com
 
Had the same problem when I first install my Snyders 5.5. I did not like the idea of unscrewing the stud or not having full threads at the top. J and M machine addresses the reason above. After much careful measuring and comparing to an original head I/we discovered that the Head was .015 to .020 too thick at the Stud Bosses. Put the Head on an End Mill and shaved off .015 to .020 off of each boss. Time consuming - yes. Got good results - yes. Any problems since - No
 
I would consider not bottoming the studs a botched up mess or a dissaster waiting to happen. The 80 some odd year old threads in the block need full penetration or they can pull right out of the block . I would probably have .020 milled off the head or use the slightly longer ignition studs. The last I heard, Snyders says that the grade 5 studs and 55 ft. lbs. torque is all that is needed .
 
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the gasket will compress a bit each time you re-torque, although maybe not enough to compensate for the thicker bosses.

I would just torque them and forget it. if some nit-picker criticizes the appearance tell them to quit looking at it
 
Also, if studs are backed off, aside from losing engagement in the already too-thin deck, you need to seal and fool around with tightening them against the head while your chosen goo dries to get them stuck at vertical. Especially if block threads have been cleaned with a tap.
Real studs seat down into carefully shaped recess in head and if no one has messed up seal into extra-tight cut threads (Marco and Vince have posted the specs).
This is why they originally sealed with no goo and stood up straight so the folks on the Rouge line could slap on a million heads a year without any fuss. I really don not like the idea of repro studs installed loose...there are a bunch of issues there even if block threads are fully intact.
 
I had the same problem, but I solved easily by useing the long number 8 stud for all the nuts. They now fit like normal and the nut will use all its threads. I don't think all that machine work is necessary. Its overkill. Simple problem, simple fix.
 
I also had the same issue with the 5.5 head. One engine builder, and I am told some of the fine point restorers, use the following method.

The nut threads are coated with perminant lock tight. The nut is then installed and positioned with one or two threads showing above the nut. Let them sit over night, then install them like a bolt and torque. I don't know if this is a good idea or not.

When ever I install head bolts I coat the bottom of the nut with sealer.

Tom Endy
 
Thanks every body for input. I'm now happy that the mate & I decided to bottom the studs out with permatex and machine the top of the head stud holes.

FORDS ARE NOT ONLY 4 WHEELS & A BOARD
 
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