Hidden water pump bolt/ 8BA

banjoQ

banjoQ

Senior Member
My 36' truck is a mixture of parts, having been put together in 51' with collected components. It sat for fifty years before I got to it and put it back on the road. Been running great until the old radiator sprung another leak. Took radiator out and only then got a good look at the water pumps.As you can see, they were pretty bad. I decided it would make sense to replace them at the same time. My concern is what i have read pertaining to the hidden bolt inside the pump. I have used some acid with a brush sparingly to remove the corrosion and now can see the bolt head and fit a socket onto it. I know to use a six sided socket and to tap the head with a brass drift. Currently soaking with PB Blaster. Are there any other precautions I can take to not break this bolt? Am I worrying too much? Not sure an impact wrench is such a good idea here. Any advise would be greatly appreciated as its too easy to make the wrong move and do more damage.
 

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If you can get a socket on it, crank it out. If it breaks, once the pump is removed it is relatively easy to get at and remove as necessary.
 
Sounds like you are doing everything right. Try it with a 3/8 ratchet first. You might be surprised how easy they come out. Replace with stainless bolts.
My second thought is, if its been running cool and the pumps aren't leaking, why take them off? Could just be opening up a can of worms. Maybe just a good flush is in order.
If it ain't broke...
 
I soaked with PB Blaster for about ten days and tapped on it daily-hard. Then I used an Extractor and it finally worked. Good luck!
 
Its good that you found out about those sneaky hidden bolts before you tried to muscle the pumps off. Like 51-Merc-CT said they are easy to get to after the pumps are removed.if you happen to snap one off.
Good plan to replace them after they sat for so long. Better now than later.
Keep us posted on the project. Enjoy the adventure.
 
So far I've disassembled about five flathead V8s, each in varying condition from freely rotating to beyond rusted solid. I've never had an issue getting these bolts out. With all the rust they look terrifying but -- knock on wood -- I haven't had one snap off yet. If the socket fits firmly you should be good.
 
I usually heat it then melt wax behind it and hammer on the best fitting 6-point socket (either sae or metric) then tighten it until it "cracks" then back it out.

OBTW BanjoQ, How's the erosion going? I love the community of Pacifica. Its like heaven on the outskirts of hayhem but it also reminds me of Seward Alaska which has an unpleasant history. I hope your property is safe.

Lonnie
 
I would suggest not using a stainless bolt, they tend to not be near as strong as a high quality Grade bolt. Think about how long these bolts have been in there in totally neglected conditions and then think how long the new bolt will survive if the coolant is properly maintained. I would doubt it will be another 50 or 60 years before the engine is disassembled again, maybe more like 10 or 20 max. And if the coolant is maintained properly it should come out looking like new.
 
Well, it sounds. like I am on the right track. There is a chance the pumps are OK but as difficult as it was to get the radiator out, I would be a fool not to replace them. New ones are not that expensive and have improved bearings. The radiator on the other hand is going to hurt. I've priced out getting a catalog new one that I will have to retrofit or recore the one I have and it's about the same. After shipping a new one is about $750 and recoreing is about the same. I would rather give my money to a man who runs a small business locally than a catalog. That's me. I going to have to put on the big boy pants and get those bolts out so I can move on with the project. I miss driving the truck.
Lonnie, the media makes it look worse than it really is. There are a few properties that just might go into the water sooner or later. But it has been going on for years. Thirty years ago there were bluffs as big as football fields behind those buildings. Years of pounding surf has taken its toll and now there is nothing left. They are empty now so no one is at risk, thank goodness. Glad you enjoy our little town, it's a well kept secret
 
I had a post on this last month as I had broken one of the very bolts on the left side. After going through the welding a washer and nut to the broken bolt process and failing, a friend and I were successful in drilling it out and tapping it with a clean out or bottom tap. Today we bolted on the new pumps and put in the new motor mounts.
This bolt was not really that easy to get at as it is so close to the front crossmember. My advice is like the others, give it plenty of soak time with a good penetrant to avoid what I went through.
 
UPDATE: I tried to get these bolts out today. Five days of soaking with PB Blaster and tapping them to break the tension. These bolt heads are 1/2" and a six sided socket slips over the corners of the head. I guess the corrosion has compromised the metal to some degree even though they still look like six sided bolts. 7/16" is too small to fit on them. Any ideas on what my options are. I don't think the tin foil trick is going to work though I will try it tomorrow. Thought of tapping on the 7/16" socket, but it does not get over the head enough and would require using the BFH. I know a dark road when I see it and this has the look. Am I looking at drilling these out? If so, what kind of extractor should be used? Should I drill the whole thing out and re-tap? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
 
Thanks guys, those look like a much better option than hammering a smaller socket on the head. I will check into them tomorrow. Let you know how they work out.Q
 
Try a 12MM they are .472" also you might try Kroil instead of PB, I find that it works better and smells a lot better. I don't know how much room you have to work with but if the 12MM works and it won't move try an impact a very low pressure. Do you have access to a welder?
 
AV8- I tried using a couple of my metric sockets, no luck. It is a tight space in there, hoping to be able to get one of the extractor sockets to work. It's OK, I kind of knew I was going to have a time with this job. Trying to keep my cool and not make things worse. Will be worth it in the end. As for the welder, no I don't have one but have friends who can help if need be.
Will check out the radiator shop in Concord, couldn't hurt to see what he can do.
 
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The 12mm is the closet size under 1/2" 11mm would equal a 7/16" Maybe try a 12mm, 12mm 12point socket instead of the 6 point. It may drive on easier. Had to do stuff like that all the time when I had my H/D shop.
 
Vinegar works well on removing rust. Just let it soak a couple of days. For penetrating oil a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid works well. A survey on the HAMB site claims the acetone,transmision fluid mix works as well as Kroil or anything else and is a lot cheaper. Time is your friend let the parts soak for a while.
 
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