Here's one for ya

G

Gino

Senior Member
My A began to stall out at random times. Sometimes after a short drive, but mostly it would run for about 45 seconds then seem to run out of gas and stall. After many checks and experiments I began to think I had the dreaded vapor lock ghost living under the hood. I was about to give up and then decided to remove the ignition weigh to check for constant continuity. AHHA! It was upon reinstallation that I discovered the pesky low level short. The newer switch is longer than an original and it was randomly shorting against the fuel tank. I have seen troubled A Owners asking the ford barn for help with stall problems. I hope my experience helps with future advice. I did not want to waist a lot of time telling a long story here but believe me this problem really did appear to be in the fuel system thanks Gino
 
Another fun one is the terminal box repops for a while had screws which were "unprotected" on the side towards the firewall.

When in use and with engine vibration, the screws would back out and then contact the firewall where they would eventually wear a hole through the paint - and cause a short.

Intermittant at first.

Joe K
 
Be careful with those newer ignition switches. They can short out to the gas tank as you found out. Worst case is when they weld them self to the gas tank and set the wiring on fire. We had this happen on a club tour several years ago.
 
I discovered a short in a friends car once that would only show up when the tank was full. Seems the tank would swell just enough that on an uphill run the switch would short out on the tank. A glob of RTV and the problem was solved.
 
I used contact cement with a piece of rubber roofing. Should solve the problem. Thanks for the info
 
Gino said:
My A began to stall out at random times. Sometimes after a short drive, but mostly it would run for about 45 seconds then seem to run out of gas and stall. After many checks and experiments I began to think I had the dreaded vapor lock ghost living under the hood. I was about to give up and then decided to remove the ignition weigh to check for constant continuity. AHHA! It was upon reinstallation that I discovered the pesky low level short. The newer switch is longer than an original and it was randomly shorting against the fuel tank. I have seen troubled A Owners asking the ford barn for help with stall problems. I hope my experience helps with future advice. I did not want to waist a lot of time telling a long story here but believe me this problem really did appear to be in the fuel system thanks Gino
Click to expand...

Gino,
I installed a new switch a few months back and noticed that the instrument cluster would not settle in on the left side. I checked and as I didn't have an old switch to match I pulled the speedo out so that I could see what was interfering with a Seemingly Simple ignition switch change.
The back of the switch was contacting the fuel tank. I was fortunate enough to be able to adjust the switch enough so as not to touch the fuel tank after installation. The idea of having a short making sparks on the fuel tank, not good.
Glad you figured it out,

Chet
 
Good to know because I have an older pop out ignition switch that I plan to replace at some point. Thanks for posting
 
I got a switch for a ford 8n tractor and except for having to unsolder the wires on it and drill and thread the holes to accept oem tabs on harness its nice and short and the nut to tighten it is on the back .Fits the opening on the dash very well and looks good also:cool:
 
I got a switch for a ford 8n tractor and except for having to unsolder the wires on it and drill and thread the holes to accept oem tabs on harness its nice and short and the nut to tighten it is on the back .Fits the opening on the dash very well and looks good also. Got it off ebay shipped for like 6 bucks also:cool:
 
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