help

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Old car Joe

Junior Member
Hey everyone need some starting help got the 27s head back on got the firing order straightened out now she turns good she will start and run if i pull plugs and put gas in each cylinder then dies when gas is gone does not seem to be drafting from the carb also after she cranked and ran a bunch of gas came back out the carb onto the floor. its a new holley carb (replacement)
any ideas before i pull the intake? or change the carb again (i have a spare rebuilt) also thru this process cylinder 3 &4 plugs are damp with fuel and 1&2 seem not to be.
thanks
Joe
 
Old car Joe said:
Hey everyone need some starting help got the 27s head back on got the firing order straightened out now she turns good she will start and run if i pull plugs and put gas in each cylinder then dies when gas is gone does not seem to be drafting from the carb also after she cranked and ran a bunch of gas came back out the carb onto the floor. its a new holley carb (replacement)
any ideas before i pull the intake? or change the carb again (i have a spare rebuilt) also thru this process cylinder 3 &4 plugs are damp with fuel and 1&2 seem not to be.
thanks
Joe
Click to expand...

Two things I would want to do are first check gas flow from tank. Second with carb filled and plugs in place where they belong, try cranking that way. Have you tried a compression check ?
If additional gas seems to be required,,, Add a very little bit into the mouth of the carb. Perhaps a friend to help with this while you crank.
Gas coming out of the carb seems to indicate too much was put in.
And, or the intake valve sticks open during comppression stroke.
Keep in touch
 
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Thanks i pulled the head because I thought some valves were sticking I found 2 and freed them up and hand cranked motor over a few days to make sure they stayed free. Good fuel flow from tank I thought maybe the needle valve may need adjusting to slow fuel flow to intake it ran for a minute or so after I put fuel in all 4 cylinders I wonder if the intake is blocked the last time it was on the road was in the early 80s but guy drained fuel tank so the tank is clean and fuel is clear. I did add a fuel filter to line but flow seems good
 
I have been amazed at what wasps ( mud daubers ) can get can get into.
I had a car sitting 15 yrs. They were leaving nests in any place they could crawl into.
 
When I did my manifolds, I found it necessary to employ a third hand
I don't recall how I did that, but that is best when getting it all lined up.

Well I had to look. Digging out my old book By Ted Aschman called Tinkerin Tips
Installing Manifolds
" To facilitate the proper placement of both exhaust and intake, it is well to have three hands. Since this is an unusual condition with most of us, we suggest that you first position the exhaust manifold and temporarily fasten it to the block with a clamp at the front and at the rear, placing the clamps in a vertical position. Next the intake manifold is positioned and it is locked in place securely with the manifold clamps in the normal or horizontal position. Now with the intake manifold and the exhaust manifold held in positionh by the two clamps, the first pair can be repositioned and the job is done"

Keep us posted.
 
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I install my manifolds just opposite as one can visually verify that the intake seated correctly first then you do the same with the exhaust - it can be a little trickier ! I have extra clamps so I cut a couple in half OR just turn them sideways.
 
A bones said:
I have been amazed at what wasps ( mud daubers ) can get can get into.
I had a car sitting 15 yrs. They were leaving nests in any place they could crawl into.
Click to expand...

I had the same symptoms and found the intake clogged with mud daubers. It was far into the intake and hard see it from the carb or the engine side. I had the intake off and on a couple of times and finally ran a stiff wire thru it. Thats when all the debris came out.
 

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stevests
That'll work.
As far as seating the glands, AS the nuts start to tighten I take as small hammer and rap on the port area of the manifold. This ensures that the glands are seated into the block, and the manifold is following suit.
Tighten a little rap a little. Just 2 or 3 times will get you there.
It is only 30 years since I did mine.
 
There was a too wide batch of steel rings on the market a number of years ago that prevented the copper crush ring from seating against the manifold - best to verify the depth of the block (perhaps surfaced) & manifold prior to installation.
 
stevests said:
There was a too wide batch of steel rings on the market a number of years ago that prevented the copper crush ring from seating against the manifold - best to verify the depth of the block (perhaps surfaced) & manifold prior to installation.
Click to expand...

Surfacing the manifolds can cause that also. It is always good practice to test fit without the gasket to see if things will go together with enough clearance.
 
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