Help with wire wheels on 42-48 rear end

[rhinodaddy]

The best I can figure is I have a banjo rear end from the 42 - 48 era. It has 12" drums. I'd like to put wire spokes all around like the style in this picture, but the ones I have are for 10" drums. I suppose I could use adapters, but my question is, did they make this style for the larger 12" drum?

Thanks for any help.

 

[Butch11443]

They will fit right on your drums. Just get the spacer rings for them.
Butch

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

If that's a 16" '35 Ford wire wheel in your picture I know it will go on the '42-'48 drum/hubs (earlier Ford wires may also work)...BUT, if you have the drum/hubs with the outer type hubs you may have some interference with attached balance weights. You could remove those weights and move them out some and reattach or eliminate them altogether and balance the hub/drum/wheel/tire as an assembly. If you have the inner type hub drums/hubs that wire wheel will fit right on. With either the inner/outer type hubs you will need the ring spacers that are sold by some suppliers or you can make your own from 4" ID, 4-1/2" OD galvanized steel or black iron water pipe cut to ~ 0.185" - 0.190" thick on a lathe.

 

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

I have ran a set of the Kelsey wires on this A for the past 7 years , tons of miles with no problems at all.... 46-48 rear axle with Quick change.

 

[rhinodaddy]

Thanks, all.

JM - they do have the outer hub (later version, I think?). I just got the drums off today, and they are 12" (13" OD). The ID of the wheel hub is 10". It looks like the raised part of the wheel at each stud hole does make contact with the hub, but the drum will show 1" per side through teh wheel. I might put some clay on it to check for contact. Not to get to techy, but I assume it's 4" steel pipe? Do you happen to know Schedule 10 (1/8" wall thickness), Sched. 40 (1/4" thick), or whatever?

Bubba - Very nice! Do you have a side shot showing the wheels dead on? Still like the look. This is also for a Model A. I want to replace the S-10 rear end the previous owner installed.

 

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Thanks, all.

JM - they do have the outer hub (later version, I think?). I just got the drums off today, and they are 12" (13" OD). The ID of the wheel hub is 10". It looks like the raised part of the wheel at each stud hole does make contact with the hub, but the drum will show 1" per side through teh wheel. I might put some clay on it to check for contact. Not to get to techy, but I assume it's 4" steel pipe? Do you happen to know Schedule 10 (1/8" wall thickness), Sched. 40 (1/4" thick), or whatever?

Bubba - Very nice! Do you have a side shot showing the wheels dead on? Still like the look. This is also for a Model A. I want to replace the S-10 rear end the previous owner installed.

Not the best pic but shows a little more side.....

 

[rhinodaddy]

Thanks, Bubba. I'm beginning to wonder if I ought to find another rear. Just took this one apart, and it's in great shape, but I was thinking about going full fender and the 42-48 rear might have bought me some extra work.

 

[Junknshit]

Rears: backing plate to backing plate 35 to 41 = 51 1/4 inches 42 to 48 = 53 inches. Outside to outside 35 to 41 = 59 1/4 inches and 42 to 48 = 61 inches. Spring hanger width 35 to 40 = 48 1/2 inches and 41 to 48 = 46 3/4 inches. Torque tubes 35 to 40 are 70 inches and 41 to 48 are 71 3/4 inches. Maybe this will help you on your going to fenders.

 

[rhinodaddy]

Thanks, junk. That's how I ended up figuring out what I had, by measuring the axle length and the center section width. I got the drums off and found the innards are pretty good, the drums still have enough meat to turn them down, and the axles turn freely when I rotate the yoke.

Now I have a perfectly good rear end, I just have to figure out if I'm going to make it work with a full fendered Model A, or just put it up in the classifieds.

 

[rich b]

The '42 to '48 rear may be a little wide for a full-fendered "A", the '35-'41 is a better match.

 

[PeteVS]

Here's an article that appeared in Street Rodder a few years back:

 

[PeteVS]

...make it work with a full fendered Model A.

If you use this rear in an "A," you'll have to do something about mounting the spring OVER the axle, instead of BEHIND it as it was on the '42-'48. Here's what I'm planning on doing... The hanger is cut off a couple of "A" axle housings, and bolted, then welded onto the later axle housings. With a '40 rear, spacing for the spring shackles is just about perfect. Here's where the '42-'48 will give you problems. (I've got the parts to do mine, but haven't started on it yet.) Here's a link to the HAMB thread where I found this. (Thanks Kerby!)

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30693&highlight=specialty+ford+parts

 

[Bassman/NZ]

Hey Pete, that's pretty sharp having it bolt-on as well as welding. Most guys cut them shorter and just weld, which I've always been a bit suspicious of. Looks good.
Marty.

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

JM - they do have the outer hub (later version, I think?). I just got the drums off today, and they are 12" (13" OD). The ID of the wheel hub is 10". It looks like the raised part of the wheel at each stud hole does make contact with the hub, but the drum will show 1" per side through teh wheel. I might put some clay on it to check for contact. Not to get to techy, but I assume it's 4" steel pipe? Do you happen to know Schedule 10 (1/8" wall thickness), Sched. 40 (1/4" thick), or whatever?

rhinodaddy, Good question. It's 1/4" thick steel/iron pipe. I updated my earlier post to clarify this. Sometimes I don't look at these threads again unless someone brings it back to the top. Thanks

 

[rhinodaddy]

Thank you, all. Great pics and I appreciate the old rear end article (didn't mean for that to sound like I was talking about my ex-). I noticed Bishop recommends sticking with the earlier rear in his book, even though he went with a hiboy.

 

[russcc]

Vern Tardel usually has the spacers you need, and Jim at Spec. Ford parts has the spring hangers you weld on. Vern & Rons book shows you how to do it.