Help with window regulators

Mike,
The interior install is going really great so far. I am done with everything except the seats. I had another setback with new running boards. The two rear boards each had two holes drilled in the wrong place. My original boards had the same drilling along with two extra holes that seem to fit the original body. Re-drilled and it fit fine. I have to say the Lebaron interior kit is outstanding. The amount of adjustments I've had to make have been minimal. Mind you this the first A I have done and so far it looks like it came off the factory line.
 
Tom
Dont't know if risers were an option. I'am too new with A's. The panel looks just like mine. It looks like the hole is there but it's hard to tell. The pic isn't clear enough. Looks like it's there on the upper left side. Are there screw holes for the riser?
 
JOES31 said:
Tom
Dont't know if risers were an option. I'am too new with A's. The panel looks just like mine. It looks like the hole is there but it's hard to tell. The pic isn't clear enough. Looks like it's there on the upper left side. Are there screw holes for the riser?
Click to expand...

Now I'm lost.:confused:
Did you click on my picture so it blows up to full size?
What do you mean by riser? I thought you meant the window crank and regulator.
 
When I bought my pickup, it had Vintique regulators that were put in when it was restored back in '89. Although they were now 20+ years old, the truck only had about 1200 miles on it since restoration. Those regulators were definitely POS. I bought new ones from Snyders and they work great, just like they are suppose to.
 
Tom
I refer to regulators as risers. They are the same. I enlarged the pic but it wasn't real clear. I went back to view the pic but it's gone. Can you post another pic. Maybe a close up of the left upper side where the hole should be?
Joe
 
Hi Joe, Welcome. Everybody was new once, but you have found the right place to find knowledgeable information and your questions answered. Bill
 
JOES31 said:
Tom
I refer to regulators as risers. They are the same. I enlarged the pic but it wasn't real clear. I went back to view the pic but it's gone. Can you post another pic. Maybe a close up of the left upper side where the hole should be?
Joe
Click to expand...

I can't take another picture, but still don't understand the question. In my picture you can see the window crank handle, which is mounted on the shaft coming through the hole. What other hole could you be talking about?
 
Joe,I had this problem with a lebony baron interior and original regulators in the rear. Thd interior was put in in the 70's and when I got the car the rear handles would pop off if the screw loosened up. the panels and springs were the problem not thr regulators.

By the way snyder's now has quality regulators.

John
 
Ran into the same problem with my 28 tudor. Replaced the rear regulators with repro's and now the operating shafts are a 1/4 inch short and will not hold the handle. I'm using a Lebarron interior. The front work fine. Ordered different handles and escutcheons from a vender and am going to try those. If that doesn't work, I am going to weld extensions on the new regulators. Frustrating!
 
Remove the springs under the upholstery panel and the window cranks will easily push in far enough to connect . If you weld extensions on the regulators, you run the risk of melting inner parts.
 
I have had the same problems with reproduction regulators, but other than that I have had very few problems with reproduction parts. We currently own three collector vehicles from three differing manufacturers, and in contrast to the carping on the relevant forums, we find the majority of reproduction parts to be of good quality.

One of our cars is a British sports car which uses electrical equipment from a manufacturer that had a very bad reputation in the period during which the car was built. I find it amusing to read that this OEM equipment is far superior to the currently available gear when back in the day we could not keep the vehicles running due to the poor quality electrics.

Likewise I believe much of the reproduction Model A available today to be of equal or better quality to the original.

This is my personal opinion based on my experience to date. I have been involved in collector cars for only twenty or so years, so I am probably completely ignorant of your reality. Forgive me


Ian
 
LOL why are you afraid to mention Lucas by name? Absolutely the poorest quality imaginable and a significant contribution to the downfall of British cars in the 70s; an industry that never recovered.

wire gauges were undersized and terminations were abominable, just to start the list off....

Everyone knows the phrase,
"Lucas, Prince of Darkness, home by dark"
that is if you can get the car to even run:eek::D
 
WR
It's frustrating with these Model A reproduction parts. I have found in a short time few reproduction parts that install without modification, God forbid you need a carburetor that will run correctly and not leak.

I took my angle grinder and kissed the back of the rear panel where the screws bolt and it moved the riser closer to the panel allowing me just enough to fit the handles.

The other way I figured I could fix it was to machine a longer stem and install it in the riser assembly. Since my first option worked I saved a lot of time.

I would have rebuilt the old ones if I knew the repo parts were junk. That's the learning curve.
 
tbirdtbird said:
LOL why are you afraid to mention Lucas by name? Absolutely the poorest quality imaginable and a significant contribution to the downfall of British cars in the 70s; an industry that never recovered.

wire gauges were undersized and terminations were abominable, just to start the list off....

Everyone knows the phrase,
"Lucas, Prince of Darkness, home by dark"
that is if you can get the car to even run:eek::D
Click to expand...

Yes - mea culpa, I should have said Lucas. :( But it is strange that you mention the wiring terminations as they are almost identical to those used on a Model A.:)

However Lucas were/are not alone. The electrics on my wife's 1957 Chevrolet Bel Air are much worse, I would not upgrade the lights to modern standards without replacing appropriate bits of the wiring harness with heavier wire and better connections.

Ian

Sorry everyone, I absconded with this thread. I guess tbirdtbird and I should disagree in another forum.
 
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I guess that is where our experience diverges.
I have always found Model A wiring to be robust....solid flag terminals, soldered, reliable. Perhaps you stumbled onto some repop stuff from the '60s when all the Model A repop stuff was crap.

Much of the Lucas stuff was a kind of spring loaded pinch setup done with a very weak spring. The connection was so weak that they overheated, severely oxidizing the copper, thus resulting in an even worse connection. All the wire was at least 2 gauge sizes too small. Grounds were a complete joke. Never any tinning or fully soldered connectors. Aluminum battery cables. Every step of the way as poorly designed and constructed as could be. But every British car company used Lucas for their wiring = death sentence
 
JOES31

I didn't previously mention that I was having problems with the window cranks even with the springs out.
Pulled that regulators out and tig welded a 5/8 inch extension on the operating shaft. Used a 3/8 inch woodruff key as stock. Came out good and the regulators still work nice and smooth. Not sure what caused the problem. The replacement regulators look just like the originals. Maybe the Lebarron panels are a little thicker. Anyway, the problem is fixed and am now waiting for the next restoration snafu.
 
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