Help with radiator cap spray

BUT, with a GOOD sealing cap, there should NEVER be spray from the cap. It would go out the overflow tube. Run a wire down the tube, to make SURE it's OPEN! "Sometimes" Mud Daubers or Leaf Rollers will plug them up! Same "sometimes" happens, when you store hose or Copper Tubing in your shop. Plug the hoses with Golf Ts & bend the ends over, on Copper Tubing! (TIP# 121)
Bill Cleanwindshield
 
I recently put a thermo Quail cap on my coupe , it did the same thing as described, had never leaked before with regular cap so I knew it was the quail. I was able to stop the leaking around the cap base by putting a bead of 'The Right Stuff" over the gasket area before installing the base. then let it cure and no more spitting. One thing that I learned in my other life as a drag racer is that a water and antifreeze mix expands considerably more than plain water when heated. On a hard pull the temp in the block will certainly be highest with the coolant taking up its most volume due to expansion . With the block full of coolant (antifreeze/water) I doubt there are steam pockets since boiling would be something like 265 deg. You can imagine that top tank nearly brim full at higher rpms and with the coolant expansion from heat.
 
Purdy Swoft said:
As a general rule , the model A water pump over pumps Years ago , Snyders recommended grinding off the tips of the water pump impeller to reduce the pumping action I think that about 1/3 of each impeller tip is recommended . Snyders offeres a cut down impeller . It has worked real good for me . None of our model A's run hot !!! I also agree with post#2 . The motor meter and quail radiator caps are the very worst to leak . I used red high temp silicone sealer under the cap gaskets when I run thermo quail caps and it helped . It has been said that the new repro radiators don't flow as well as the original radiators . Its not likely that the head gasket is the problem . I would explore every avenue before considering removing the head . I've seen way too many head studs wrung off in the block .
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Hi Mr. Purdy, I was wondering what you thought about using the thermostat that is sold for the top hose as a water restrictor? I don't have one on my car so I don't have experience with one on a model a but I know that the thermostat ,even wide open, would slow down the flow.This is one of those things I have on my list of "things to try". It would certainly be inexpensive and easily removed if it didn't help.
 
roy green coupe said:
Hi Mr. Purdy, I was wondering what you thought about using the thermostat that is sold for the top hose as a water restrictor? I don't have one on my car so I don't have experience with one on a model a but I know that the thermostat ,even wide open, would slow down the flow.This is one of those things I have on my list of "things to try". It would certainly be inexpensive and easily removed if it didn't help.
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Installing a thermostat will slow down the flow problem . The only reason that I don't use a thermostat is , I figure sooner or later it could stick closed .I would really hate to have to remove a stuck thermostat on a hot engine on the road side . After installing an original cap and sealing the leak there I cut down the impeller and solved the problem . I also like the heavy duty 8 fins per inch radiators . Extra fins gives better cooling than the 5 or 6 fin radiators .
 
I have a moto-meter that works (tested it), and it indicates that my engine is not overheating.

I had the same problem with my shiny-new Moto-Meter. Added a thicker O-ring to supplement the gasket and windshield remains clean now.

For your stripped screw problem - Drill the head of the screw off.
 
Some WURRY about thermostats FAILING, well, ANYTHING "could" FAIL.
A Friend, in a NEW '55 Chev, broke a R/F coil spring, down in the Desert & sideled into Santa Rosa, New Mexico!
I jist bought a 4 pack of AAA Batteries & one was STONE DEAD!!!
Bill Dark
 
Dollar Bill said:
I have a moto-meter that works (tested it), and it indicates that my engine is not overheating.

I had the same problem with my shiny-new Moto-Meter. Added a thicker O-ring to supplement the gasket and windshield remains clean now.

For your stripped screw problem - Drill the head of the screw off.
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When doing the drilling, use a reverse drill bit. I'll usually end up turning out the screw.
 
eagle said:
When doing the drilling, use a reverse drill bit. I'll usually end up turning out the screw.
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not to hijack but who decided drill bits should be right handed? Yes left handed drill bits generally drill so far then really bite into the screw your drilling out and come unthread.
 
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