Help With My 32 Light Switch Please

glennpm

Well-known member
Hi,

I have an original and repro light switch with a new harness. I cannot move the switch CCW enough to get it to the high beam position. Off is up, CW one click to park, and one click CCW are fine.

I am checking for continuity between the 4YR battery wire and the light wires; 1B (park), 8BR and 9BR (low beam) and 8BG and 7BG (high beam).

I have had this on and off many times today and can't figure out the problem. It seems like the switch itself doesn't swing a big enough arc to move the contacts to the high position. The light rod is not binding on the top or along the shaft and is very free to move without the switch bail mounted on the bottom.

Can someone help me figure this out please?
 

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For starters, the handle on the switch should be in the down position when off, not up. I'm traveling at present so I cannot offer anything further until later this week.
 
Hi David,

I neglected to say that I have a 36 Banjo wheel and light switch in my 32 roadster. With the paddles up and down vertically, the lights are all off.
 

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The rectangular notch in the Bakelite contact holder has to fit over the boss in the metal light switch housing. Then the housing has to slide inside the second half of the metal housing and rotate until it stops.(about 1/4") Look at the movable contacts and make sure they will move (by the spider) the full swing necessary to go to all 4 stationary contact positions. Your 35-36 style light switch handle appears correct position for off.
 
Hi there, remove the switch from the steering box intact and using a pair of pointy nose pliers carefully insert each point into the slots in the switch plate and rotate the switch accordingly and see if you can get all the light positions, especially the high beam to the far left. If this does not work then you know the switch is at fault and not the horn rod components. If it does all work then the problem is in the horn rod components. Install the light switch spider on the bottom of the horn rod with the prongs at 6 and 12 oclock when the switch lever at the top is at the 6 oclock position. The switch also needs to be in the central position before clipping on with the bail wire. At the bottom of horn rod spring goes on first then spider, then "U" shaped retaining clip into slot in bottom of horn rod. There is also the possibility that your switch has mismatched upper and lower housings. The 1938 onwards top switch housing and contacts only move through three positions as these models have a floor dipper switch. So check that the top half of the switch rotates through four positions and not three positions. Good luck, regards, Kevin.
 
Hi,

I just took the switch off and also removed the spider. I inserted the spider into the switch and could only get three positions. It will not rotate enough to get to the high beam position.

From my first picture, the switch will only rotate to the point that the contact is even with the switch housing indexing and alignment tab. The second picture shows the limit of rotation the other way. Here the contact is even with the rivet in the housing.

I also measured between three of the harness contacts and get about 15/16" (24mm). The switch I have will only rotate about 11/16 (17.5mm). I must have been sold a 1938 or later switch. Anyone agree?

Thanks
 

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I just replaced mine several months ago.
Are you haveing the problem with the repro-switch or original??
I had problems with a several repro switchs.
So I decided to search for an original switch, NOS, or used. I was able to find NOS but it looked like used anyway. With the NOS switch my connection problems seemed to go away.
I don't trust the junk repro electrical stuff anymore. I think they make it to look like the originals but not functional as the originals. Don't drive yourself crazy with a poorly made repro switch.

I had problems getting the two halves of the switch to fit together properly.
I had to file and sand the insides so that I can get the switch properly seated..
Even the NOS switches don't come pre-fit. Make sure the switch goes together all the way down.
 
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Hi Guys and thanks to all that have posted.

Yeah this thing is driving me crazy and wasting way too much time!

I started with a repro switch and determined that the contact ring was not rotating enough to get to high. I bought a good used one but it looks like it is from a 38 or later since it won't rotate to the contacts required for high beam. I've wasted at least six hours on this and its the wrong switch!!

I did find that the replacement harness had to to filed to fit either housing, It does bottom out properly in the housing.
 
Hi Guys and thanks to all that have posted.

Yeah this thing is driving me crazy and wasting way too much time!

I started with a repro switch and determined that the contact ring was not rotating enough to get to high. I bought a good used one but it looks like it is from a 38 or later since it won't rotate to the contacts required for high beam. I've wasted at least six hours on this and its the wrong switch!!

I did find that the replacement harness had to to filed to fit either housing, It does bottom out properly in the housing.
When I was looking for a NOS switch I almost bought a 36 or 38 and the guy on ebay was nice enough to tell me that it would not work with the 33.
I know, it was a real pain.. I also put in a new wire harness.
My original switch actually broke. The rotor part broke off. It is hard to work with it because there does not seem to be any excess moving space for the wires and switch. I almost gave up several times, but with these are, who do you take it too? You either fix it or you are stuck.
Yeah, make sure you get the right stuff, prefit the halves and it should be ok.
 
Hi there, I will say it again, 1928 to 1937 top switch housings will rotate through four positions. 1938 onwards rotate only three positions. That is your problem. Get an original early switch top metal housing and you will be OK. Regards, Kevin.
 
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