Help with condensor on distributor '29 Model A

[Jim M]

Hi, Been working all day on my first Model A project - trying to get it running. Replacing things that look bad or obviously broke. I am trying to get the distributor back together with some new parts, mainly the lower plate, condensor, points, cap, and rotor. I had to put in a new ignition switch as there were no keys to be found anywhere. I put the new lower plate in (quite a job for me trying to get it in with the new ignition wire!), and I'm now trying to install the new condensor. The problem is the hole in the end of the condensor and the hole in the bracket on the lower plate don't match up! I have tried using an awl but they are quite a ways out of alignment and I can't get the brass screw in nohow! Also there is a fiber washer that came with the new dist screw kit that I assume (I know what THAT means) it goes on the brass screw. I just took a break before I got my BFH out and made a mess. Any help would be geatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim M

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

I never use repro lower plates, so I can't advise about what's wrong there, but be sure to slip the large insulating washer next to the hole in the cast iron body before you install the top plate. Then you run the screw through the washer, then the lower plate tab and into the condensor.

 

[Tom Endy]

I use the repo lower plates from Bratton, and they work ok. However, I much prefer using originals salvaged out of old distributors (they are stronger and are riveted together better). I then purchase just the multi-strand wire (the short one) from Bratton and install in on the original lower plate.

The trick to installing a lower plate regardles of repo or original is to test fit it first and check that the hole in the tab lines up in the window of the housing. If it doesn't, bend it with long nose pliers until it does. Next glue the fiber washer onto the tab with contact cement (put a drift though both holes to perfectly align them). When the glue is dry slip the lower plate into place and put a drift into one of the two mounting holes. Next screw the large headed screw in through the window, washer, and tab and capture the threaded hole in the condenser. I use one of those little tools that grips the slot in the screw head. Before you fully tighten it install the two lower plate mounting screws and the screw that attaches the ground strap of the condenser. When all the screws are in place tighten them all. Check that the fiber washer is doing its job and not allowing the tab on the lower plate to touch ground.

It is also a good idea to check for unwanted grounding when the assembly is complete. Slip a business card between the point and using an ohm meter check that the arm of the points is isolated from ground. While checking, rotate the spark advance arm to make sure the arm of the points stays isolated during the full travel. If you find a short it is most likely where the multi-strand wire attaches to the stud on the bottom of the arm of the points.

I never attempt to replace a condenser when out on the road just for problem you are having, plus I usually drop the screws and lose them and it also kills my back leaning over the car. Best to have another distributor already set up and timed for your car and change the whole thing out.

Tom Endy