Help with Changing Oil Pan Gasket

[solidirish]

Sorry in advance for raising this question again but even after reading all the previous posts on this subject & talking to several people I felt comfortable doing it but screwed up big time. In the process of putting on Taylor's oil filter and replacing the timing gear I tore the paper oil pan gasket so I replaced it using a paper gasket, cork on rear main & 2 ropes at the front pan & timing gear cover. End result I went from minimum leaking to leaking a quart per 100 miles and dripping quarter size drops a few inches apart as I pull into my drive after a half hour drive. The leaking is at each end of the oil pan but not on the sides
Because of so many details to this process I wonder if it could be possible to have a phone conversation with someone who has had success doing this process. If you could email me with your phone number and good time to reach you I would be most appreciative. My email is rjblake@prodigy.net. Thanks in advance. Also I will post the changes I had to make if I end up being successful. Also I will be leaving early Friday for the MAFFI museum so could be a few days before getting in touch. Thanks again.Ray in Illinois

 

[700rpm]

Here is how I install the pan gaskets: soak the ropes for at least four hours in fresh oil before installing (I soak mine overnight). Do not trim them. I also soak the rear main cork gasket for about an hour before I install it, then wipe it down, but some think that isn't necessary. When you trim that (after getting it almost installed), leave it a little bit long; it will compress as you draw up the pan. Install the pan gaskets onto the block (not on the pan) before you put the rear gasket in and after you put the timing gear cover rope in, and put some sealer around the ends of the front and rear gaskets. I use Permatex #2 gasket seal. I also use that on the pan gaskets themselves, though for many years I just used grease. But the Permatex helps hold the gasket onto the block if you're working on the engine in the car. Use a sealant that will not harden so when you have to remove the pan it will be relatively easy, not glued to the block.

Put the pan up and draw the bolts tight gradually, working around the pan. If the engine is in the car I use a small jack to raise the pan up and hold it in position until I can get some bolts in (turn your wheels to the right or left to get the tie rod out of the way). I put one bolt in each corner first, to hold gaskets and pan in place, then work evenly around the perimeter. Sometimes the pan gaskets will get moved out of hole alignment; use a phillips head screw driver to work them back into position.

I don't tighten the bolts on the first go-round, I just snug them up. Then I go around again getting more snug each time. I use a 3/8" drive and work it on the head of the wrench to keep the torque to a minimum. These bolts can break easily and do not need a lot of torque (about 18# is enough if you're actually measuring it, but I just feel it, and when they're tight I stop). I let this sit for about 15-30 minutes, then go around again, especially paying attention to the bolts near the front and rear seals. When I've done this about three times till all bolts feel evenly tight, I usually let the whole thing sit for a few hours or overnight, then check the tightness one more time all around before I start it up.

Everybody has their own work methods, but this is the way I do it and it has always worked for me.

 

[Brentwood Bob]

I use string to hold the pan gasket in place on the pan. Don't tie in a knot just use the surgeon trick of double crossing the string. The friction holds it in place until I start to replace the string with the pan bolts.
Bob