Help with broken bolt?

Kahuna

Kahuna

Well-known member
Guys, I have another block I'm working on. It's totally crack free, but has one broken off water pump bolt. It would be the bolt that is internal to the pump and it is broken off flush. I'm concerned that it may be Stainless Steel and I have no idea how to get it out.
Any help would sure be appreciated
Thanks
Jim
 
Weld a washer on to the stub. Then weld on a nut. Heat block around the stud. Works every time. I did it on one of my inner water pump bolts on 37 block. An impact wrench is good to use. Whatever you do don't use an easy out. Replace with stainless bolts. You can weld stainless with steel wire no problem.
 
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Lay a washer on it with a smaller size hole in it, and weld it to the washer. Then weld a nut onto it. Put some acetone and transmission fluid 50/50 mix on it and tap with a hammer and screw it out. It has worked for me.
 
The above methods will work. What hasn't been said is that it might not work first time. Be patient, keep trying and it will work eventually. I did one recently and drilled part way through and filled it with weld. that shrinks the stub. There are many threads on here about broken studs and bolts, lots of good advice. There are also some video's on youtube that are worth a watch.

Here's a thread I started on the subject there are loads more.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123671

Mart.
 
Mart said:
The above methods will work. What hasn't been said is that it might not work first time. Be patient, keep trying and it will work eventually. I did one recently and drilled part way through and filled it with weld. that shrinks the stub. There are many threads on here about broken studs and bolts, lots of good advice. There are also some video's on youtube that are worth a watch.

Here's a thread I started on the subject there are loads more.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123671

Mart.
Click to expand...

You're correct, it might take a couple tries.
 
I do 2things to weld out a stud. As mentioned the hole should be smaller than the stud. I also use a thicker piece of steel than a washer.This allows you to use high current to make a good weld without damge to block. I use a lathe,but a square piece ground round would be fine.

This was a head stud I did. used vice grips and did not need to weld on nut,but it was not rusty.

John
 

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Have done this countless times and haven't been tricked yet.The secret is to control the heat keep it on the edge where it is going to almost melt away. I use a tig and that is normal practice.With a mig or stick it is also done but has nowhere the heat control of tig.Have also removed broken mixture screws in a carb the same way.As it is cooling off quench it with a candle and wait for the cooling off before removal.Sometimes don't even weld a nut on.Hope this helps you along.

R
 

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Thanks so much, Guys. I was worried about it being SS and I'm not a welder. I'll have my friend try it.
Thanks again
Jim
 
I just had the same problem. I tried and welded it about 4 times didn't work for me.
The bolt got so hot it became very hard.
If you use the water pump to center hole line as straight as you can and drill out.
Start small and go to 3/8-16 tap=5/16 drill
 
George/Maine said:
I just had the same problem. I tried and welded it about 4 times didn't work for me.
The bolt got so hot it became very hard.
If you use the water pump to center hole line as straight as you can and drill out.
Start small and go to 3/8-16 tap=5/16 drill
Click to expand...

You didn't get it hot enough What kind of welder? Done dozen's no problems.

R
 
Ronnie said:
Have done this countless times and haven't been tricked yet.The secret is to control the heat keep it on the edge where it is going to almost melt away. I use a tig and that is normal practice.With a mig or stick it is also done but has nowhere the heat control of tig.Have also removed broken mixture screws in a carb the same way.As it is cooling off quench it with a candle and wait for the cooling off before removal.Sometimes don't even weld a nut on.Hope this helps you along.

R
Click to expand...

Your thumbnail shows excellent heat control and welds. That's why the degree of success you have.
 
Irwin make sockets exactly for that purpose.
The harder you turn to the left, the more the socket grips.
Great for that internal water pump bolt.
Chris.NZ.
Irwin Bolt Grip.
Expansion set.
 
Using stainless bolts always seems to be the answere to corrosion but it has side effects. The worst of which is galling on removal. It is made worse by dissimilar metal applications. Welding stainless is not all that much different than steel except it is best to try to use a rod that approximates the alloy. An experienced welder is a must in these situations otherwise a sonic disintegrator would be required to blow it out.
 
I think the problem I was having is using flex core with a Lincoln 125 would not fill the center.
Had a friend try it and broke off flush.
We wound up drilling it out.
 
Once you get your bolt out and if you replace with a S.S. bolt, put anti-seize on the threads before you install them. This helps prevent electrolysis from occurring and helps prevent the problem your having now. If you can afford it, buy the "High" nickel content anti-seize which can be found at "most" industrial/plumbing supply stores. Its much better than the standard anti-seize you buy but any is better than nothing!!! This also helps keep the stainless steel from gauling, for some reason the 5/16 and 3/8 diameters are bad about this and I suspect its from people over tightening these fasteners. Your max recommend torque for 5/16 (with anti-seize) is only 12 foot pounds and 23 for 3/8. REMEMBER stainless steel "IS NOT STRONG" in tensile strength, its is difficult to cut and drill but is a very soft material!!!
 
swoopNZ said:
Irwin make sockets exactly for that purpose.
The harder you turn to the left, the more the socket grips.
Great for that internal water pump bolt.
Chris.NZ.
Irwin Bolt Grip.
Expansion set.
Click to expand...

Thank you Chris!! Over the weekend I tried to remove the left waterpump but my long reach socket wouldn't grip on the rusted internal bolt and it was stuck fast. I mixed up a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF and gave it a quirt in there. I went and brought an Irwin bolt grip set for $53NZ at the local Bunnings Hardware outlet and a short socket extension. I was worried the bolt might break of but with gentle persuasion I was able to crack the seal on the rusted bolt and turn it out. I recommend this tool to anyone contemplating removing rusted or burred bolts...it makes light work.

I brought the base set. Here's the link to the tool should anyone be interested.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/screw-bolt-extractors/bolt-extractors


GB
 
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