Help with block sealer?

reek29

reek29

Member
I have replaced my head gasket and have read several posts concerning the use of block sealer to prevent leaks. After going to my local auto parts store, I discovered several products that claim to be able to seal blocks and heads.....everything from radiator stop leak to products that claim to be able to seal minnor cracks in the block. Some stay in the system and some need to be flushed out after treatment. Help!!! I am confused now and am wondering what is the best type/brand to use. Can anybody help me with this? Thanks, Fordbarners!
 
I like to use Iron-tite as a block sealer with discretion on the amount to use on the small cooling system of the Model A. Firstly, the cooling system should be flushed with a cleaner of some type, to remove any oil or grease deposits. Follow the instructions on the product you decide to use explicidly. The manufacturer claims it can be used with anti-freeze, but that is your decision. Many "Fordbarner,s" may not agree, but sometimes you just have to take the bull by the horns, and try something, before tearing into a full blown block and head magnaflux and overhaul.
 
There is a product that is commonly called water glass that should solve your problem. You will first need to clean the cooling system, for any block sealer to work. I first add some dish washing licquid to the cooling system to remove any grease from the system. The grease that is usually present is caused from greasing the water pump over the years. After the car has been run long enough for the soap to do its job, flush the system and add a commercial radiator cleaner. When the cleaner has been run through the system and flushed, add the water glass and follow label instructions. Adding water glass to a partially stopped up radiator can result in a completely stopped up radiator.

I purchased water glass from Auto Zone about three years ago and the cost was between five and six dollars per bottle. One bottle did the job and we haven't had any problems since. Before adding the water glass, the problem was so bad that water was entering the oil when it sit over night. Good luck.
 
before i would use any block sealer i would find out if you need it, if the head and block are straight and you followed the torque sequence, and retorque after a hundred miles or so , and you do that 3 or 4 times you should not need a block seal, bit if you do want to use one use water glass (sodium silicate) you can buy it at kragens auto zone and other parts houses, as was posted earlier on here, now this tuff works it will seal a pretty large crack in the head and block, if you do use it FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS TO THE LETTER ON THE LABLE, it works by heat and contact with the outside air, if you leave the radiator cores uncovered they will be sealed, but it is the best stuff on the market to seal a water leak in an engine (READ THE DIRECTIONS)
 
I like the sealer with the brown molasses and rabbit pellets in it. I think solder seal makes it. It hardens when air hits it as it leaks out.
 
most head gasket leaks are between the layers of the gasket. 1/2 bottle of bars leak will help this. You can also coat the inside of each water hole and stud hole with black rtv and do the same thing.
 
I like, RonC and John, prefer to use Bar's leaks just for maintenance and sealing leaks at the head gasket or worse. Copper gaskets are prone to leak especially if the block or head are slightly out of tolerance. Good stuff, it comes in a small bottle for 4 cylinder motors and large for inline 6's and V8's.
 
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