Help with an engine noise...
- Thread starter kawagumby
- Start date
shew01
Well-known member
Hmmm... I didn’t know such a thing exists. Did you buy something like this?
Sunex 2841 1/2-Inch Drive Pipe Plug Socket Set, Male/Female set, Cr-Mo, 7/16-Inch - 5/8-Inch Male, 7/16-Inch - 5/8-Inch Female, 8-Piece https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002GT5VPM/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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nkaminar
Well-known member
Kawagumby, That is one nice looking car. Looks like the roadster I wish I still had.
My take on babbett engines is that the shims are there for a reason and that taking up the bearings is a normal maintenance task. I think that the bearings should be at least checked after about 3,000 miles after a rebuild, especially if they were hand fitted by scraping them in.
My take on babbett engines is that the shims are there for a reason and that taking up the bearings is a normal maintenance task. I think that the bearings should be at least checked after about 3,000 miles after a rebuild, especially if they were hand fitted by scraping them in.
kawagumby
Senior Member
Hi,
I took some pictures that illustrate my approach to fixing the noisy rod. Number 4 rod was the culprit and was very loose, like .025 loose in places.
However, I lucked out as the crank journal was still like new, and the rod babbitt surfaces were in good shape. I noticed the engine had been assembled with many shop-worn nuts and bolts, and sure-enough one of the rod nuts was beginning to strip, which may have compounded the problem, however, it seems to me that the original setup was too loose to begin with.Here's a picture of the cap...
I was concerned about uneven journal wear so I took plastigage readings at top and bottom, and with the crank positioned at each side.
Here's some pictures...
The crank journal is good from all directions.
The clearances around the crankshaft are now between .001 to .0015 with one small spot area over that. Not bad.
Finding nuts that afforded the correct torque that would line up with the cotter pin hole was a chore, and I had to do some lapping to get the right nut height for placing some of the cotter pins.
I was fighting the shims all the way...some were stuck together and not usable...good thing I was mostly pulling shims. I also had ordered two sets of castle nuts, one from CWMoss, and one set from Mike's, unfortunately, the set from Mike's was unusable as the nuts were too short (below the cotter pin hole). Here's the kind of shim set Bratton's sent me:
You can tell a loose rod from the side play! I had two, number 3 was just a bit out of spec' but the side play was a giveaway.
Ready for the model B pan gasket...should get it tomorrow.
Tom
Last edited:
Jack Shaft
BANNED
Thats a BB crankshaft with swedged on counterweights.
kawagumby
Senior Member
I noticed the counterweights looked like add-ons! Good eye! I was amazed how smooth this engine runs for an oldie.
Jack Shaft
BANNED
The BB crankshaft was the heaviest crankshaft Ford offered, total rotating mass weight at 130 lbs. Rotating mass dampens vibration and stores kinetic energy, good for smooth operation. Racers don't like rotating mass.. the engine doest spool up as fast.. but driving the car is way smoother with weight, clutch function, hill climbing you name it.
Obviously you dodged this bullet, but grinding the crankshaft rod journals requires removal of the counterweights.. basically you walk away from the job.
Those bratton shims are laminated..you need a good sharp razor blade to peel it.
Obviously you dodged this bullet, but grinding the crankshaft rod journals requires removal of the counterweights.. basically you walk away from the job.
Those bratton shims are laminated..you need a good sharp razor blade to peel it.
kawagumby
Senior Member
Jack Shaft
BANNED
be careful with the fingers and give it a try.. they are stamp cut, it looks like solid brass.
Jack Shaft
BANNED
Trying to peel .001 off can be fun.Original ones were steel,some feel the brass doest provide the support steel does.
kawagumby
Senior Member
So I got it running today (nice break in the weather). It runs great. No more knock and I was able to fix a lot of minor things while I had everything apart.
There is a bit more valve noise as I opened up the exhaust valve clearance from 15 to 18 thou' as this is a B engine.
Best part is no oil or water leaks! I use Yamabond (my favorite gasket sealer from my dirt bike workings) and paid special attention to the rear cam area and main bolts. I also went with a neoprene front seal.
Here's a couple of pic's:
Tom
kawagumby
Senior Member
Yep. I'm planning on doing something different with the fuel line, including possibly inserting a second shut-off valve, as the primary shut-off valve has a very slow leak...so for long-term storage a second shut-off might be nice to have.