57ChevyWagonMan
Member
I will have to look at that valve thing a little closer. Perhaps another shot of oil on each valve is in order.
Mike
Mike
Help with an 8BA Flathead V8
- Thread starter 57ChevyWagonMan
- Start date
57ChevyWagonMan
Member
Yup! A valve was the problem. A little heat with the propane torch and some Kroil and it finally let go.
As far as valves and seats go. Should I plan to have hardened seats installed? And should I re-use the origonal valves (providing they have enough life left for a regrind) or should I go to stainless steel?
I realy want a very reliable motor!
Thanks
Mike
As far as valves and seats go. Should I plan to have hardened seats installed? And should I re-use the origonal valves (providing they have enough life left for a regrind) or should I go to stainless steel?
I realy want a very reliable motor!
Thanks
Mike
Shadetree
Well-known member
.
One way to identify it as a truck engine:
Note the part circled. Only trucks had this. It has 8RT stamped on it.
It seemsI have read somewhere that trucks came with 8BA heads too. The 8BA heads have a higher compression ratio than the 8RT and makes 4 more horsepower. However I can't find where I read this, so I am not sure. Maybe someone else can help.
Shadetree
Some of the valves in the picture look pitted at the edges. You need just the 45degree surface as factory but if you don't square the edge up will it make a hot spot?
If you take much meat off the valve will be smaller, & with the original seat ground down it will put the valve seal out toward the edge.
I understand small block chevvie valves can be modified to fit and are a bit bigger, youhave some kicking around I would grab one & compare, there are articles here about that
If you buy new seats at NAPA they are real hard, and there is no angle, used up some stone to get the surface cut as they have a square shoulder.
Whenever i fix up a motor I have I have piston assemblies valves and such to fix and they run a long time. But i look for NOS stuff to use for a overhaul, as far as speedway valves price is cheep and have a set secondhand but I havent used them yet.
I will say as the stock lifters require a stem grind to set gap, I would check the fit with new valves & seats, if the installed assembly has too much gap, maybe reground cam also, may not have adjustment?
Unless you do adjustamle lifters, probably, then no sweat
If you take much meat off the valve will be smaller, & with the original seat ground down it will put the valve seal out toward the edge.
I understand small block chevvie valves can be modified to fit and are a bit bigger, youhave some kicking around I would grab one & compare, there are articles here about that
If you buy new seats at NAPA they are real hard, and there is no angle, used up some stone to get the surface cut as they have a square shoulder.
Whenever i fix up a motor I have I have piston assemblies valves and such to fix and they run a long time. But i look for NOS stuff to use for a overhaul, as far as speedway valves price is cheep and have a set secondhand but I havent used them yet.
I will say as the stock lifters require a stem grind to set gap, I would check the fit with new valves & seats, if the installed assembly has too much gap, maybe reground cam also, may not have adjustment?
Unless you do adjustamle lifters, probably, then no sweat
flatjack9
Well-known member
May be a good chance that the engine has hard seats already. When using stock valves, I use exhausts in place of the original intake valves as they are harder. You can get 1.5" Chevy stainless steel valves. They are about .100 longer so will need some work. Get the ones with chrome stems.