Help with 215 OHV I6 2x1 set up

These are pics of both carbs. Pardon the ugliness. I was more intent on getting this to run right instead of making it look pretty. You will notice the front choke is locked open. It cold starts well with only the rear choke. There is a throttle spring on each carb and two on the linkage. This set up tends to stick if the short one between the connector bar and the stock link is not there.

Now my question. Who in San Jose is setting these up? The Courier I have comes from there.
 

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Thanks, Jim. The UPS driver just dropped off the package from Speedway with the Uni-Syn's. I'll try them first since I already have them.
 
Bringing this back up and going technical. I decided to replace the LOM distributor with a unit for a '72 Ford 240"/300" six. The drive end of these is very similar to the '53 LOM. The benefit I was looking for is centifugal and vacuum advance systems. The '72 240"/300" units have them. If you are at a rebuild on a 215" replace the tang and slot oil pump with a 1/4" hex drive oil pump for the '55 thru '59 223" The conversion is much easier, only requires 1/4" to 5/16" hex shaft adaptor. If you are dealing with a built 215" that you don't want to open up, this is how it can be done.

Here are both units in stock configuration
LOM
LOMStock.jpg

240"/300"
70s240-300Stock.jpg

Both gears are removed.
LOM
LOMShaft.jpg

240"/300"
70s240-300Shaft.jpg

The next step is to cut the shaft of the 240"/300" unit to the same length as the LOM unit. Since I don't have milling machine an abrasive cut off wheel on a grinder did the job. I also used the same wheel to cut he slot in the end of the shortened shaft.
240-300ModShaft.jpg

The bore on the drive gear must then be drilled out to 17/32". The drive gear was installed on reworked shaft. Drill a new 1/8" retainer pin hole for the gear lock. Job done.
DSC00374.jpg

ModwithGearOn.jpg

Installed it today. Runs very good, much smoother. Huge difference under load and in cruise.
 
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Thank you for the photos with the springs. The shop that did the work is Campbell Ford Performance in Campbell, CA (San Jose). Bob is a great guy that was patient with me while we worked through the issues. He was also fair in his labor.

Thanks for the instructions. My motor is already built and has the oil pump correct for the 215 motor. Did you buy the 72 distributor new or used? From where? Still thinking about sending a spare distributor that I have to Bubba for the conversion.

I got my Panel back from the mechanic last Friday. He was able to adjust the carbs, after he added the hard stops. He also adjusted the linkage. He found that both carbs leak a little fuel and air from the rear (at the linkage connectors), but not too much. Eventually, both carbs will need attention. He disconnected the vacuum line at the LOM and was able to sync the carbs to run better. It now doesn't run at high RPMs as it did before. However, now the carbs stumble and hesitate when I push on the pedal lightly and slow.

Another thing is that the truck will start fine when cold, but after running and being warm/hot, when I go to start it again, it barely cranks over. It gets to the point of stopped cranking. The battery is fine and at or over 6.4 volts. Not sure if this has to do with the starter or starter solenoids going out, or with the timing related to the LOM. Perhaps it's the Pertronix ignitor that's inside the LOM???
 
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The distibutor is a rebuilt unit Cardone/OEM part #30-2610. The application I searched for was '72 F100 300". This unit looks to be for 68-72 240" & 300" sixes.
It was easier to do the conversion than I originally thought.

I agree that these carbs will give you a run.

Your hot start issue sounds like there is a bad connection to the starter. Double check all electrical connections, cables to the starterand all the grounds.
 
Found the distributor at AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts (cheapest - $60 w/o core).

I didn't have this hot start issue before. I have 1/0 welding cables made into all battery/starter/ground cables. The starter was removed when I had the engine rebuilt. I'll re-check all of the connections.
 
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Also, forgot to ask, will this later distributor work with my engine since it's still 6v positive ground? Does it matter to the internals (points, condenser, rotor, etc) what voltage and polarity the vehicle is? Are the points, condenser, rotor, and cap interchangeable between the LOM and the later distributor?
 
Points ignition doesn't care whether 6 or 12 volt or pos or neg ground. Points, condenser and the cap are interchangeable. Only the rotor is different. You will need one for the later distributor.
 
Seems the hot-start problem was found. It was a faulty starter solenoid. Started the truck today and let it run for about 10 minutes. Then tried starting it again and it wouldn't turn over or very, very slow turn. Touched the starter solenoid and the cables going to it and they were HOT! I had a metal case starter solenoid. Grabbed a plastic case starter solenoid (same as metal case) and installed it. The truck actually started better and faster. Ran it for about the same amount of time. Started it again after it warmed up and no problems. Solenoid and cables are also not as hot with the new replacement.
 
Mine runs very well with the mod. The mod for yours wil be easier. I think the hex drive is the same size for 60 up. You might be able to drop the new one it with no changes.
 
41ford1 said:
Mine runs very well with the mod. The mod for yours wil be easier. I think the hex drive is the same size for 60 up. You might be able to drop the new one it with no changes.
Click to expand...

This might sound stupid but what else did you need besides the Cardone dizzy?
 
Disconnect the linkage between the carbs. Be sure each carb has a spring that pulls the throttle to the idle stops. Start with the idle mixture screws about 11/2 turns out. Set the idle stops on both carbs so there is a 1/16" gap between the throttle plate and the throttle body bore. That should get it running at an idle. You will then need to make small adjustments to the idle stops to get the speed where it needs to be. A carb sync tool will be a real help with this. I used an IR temp gun to measure header runner temps. The idea came from aircraft EGT indicators. Once the temps were matched on all the runners it runs quite smooth. With out a sync tool it will take some playing with. Good luck.
 
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