Help removing front oil galley plug--8BA!!

4

4tfred

Junior Member
That front plug just above the cam is frozen, like welded in. I tried to remove it with an allen wrench but it sort of eggated out & did not budge.

I have always soaked rusted bolts in Kroil for a few days and they seemed to come out rather easy. But NOT in this 8ba!! I warmed it up a bit with the torch, applied another soaking of Kroil for a few days (block was upright) so it had a chance to soak in I figured. I wonder if the plug was installed with a locktie compound that wont let the Kroil soak. It's rock solid, so I'm looking for suggestions!!

I'm considering mig welding a 3/8" nut to the plug exposed surface that is about 1/8" above the block cast surface. If that does not break it loose then I suppose the next step is attempting to drill out the center and use an easy-out. By the way the plug is not brass, it's steel.

OK, appreciate some suggestions.
 
If you can still get a bite with an Allen wrench, heat the plug quickly to just below glowing red and apply WAX. Let it cool and it should come right out.
Otherwise go with the welded nut routine. After welding apply wax while it is still hot.
You can drill and pick it out, BUT, DO NOT USE AN EASY OUT!!
That's a recipe for disaster and an expensive EDM job.
 
If you sacrifice an allen wrench or a piece of hex stock, weld it into the recess of the plug, I bet it spins right out afterwards.
 
I have had the most success removing those galley plugs by using a hand held impact driver. Most of these have been the slotted brass type but have also removed some allen type that were steel/stainless steel. I have also used heat on the cast iron around the threaded plug that has worked on the stubborn ones. If someone has used Locktite on the threads, the heat should break that down.
 
I assume you are stripping the complete engine. As Pete said, stand the block on end, if you can get a bite on it, heat the plug almost red and melt a candle wax on top of it, you can take it out with your finger, but better use something that will stand more heat. Walt
 
x2 as Walt said. Don't try to remove it till it cools down some what. Give the wax some time to penetrate. You can add wax a coulpe of times while it is cooling.That should do it if not the weld and nut is a good alternative.

R
 
Hand impact is an excellent tool for this job if there is any grip left. If you drill, and this thing is allen as seems to be indicated, make first drilling within the allen with whatever size just fits...in my experience the drilling seems to allow the plug to relax inward a bit and turning it out suddenly becomes easy.
 
I would use the EZ out as a last resort. You might try to tighten the plug first before backing it out.
 
Absoulutely NEVER, EVER use an easy out unless you can get to the back of the offending piece to remove the broken end of the easy out... In this case, you may be able to get to the back through the oil gallery tube... Makes it removable...

Drilling out most of the center of the offending part does relieve most of the pressure holding it in.

In the machine shop I used to get requests to "remove a broken bolt", sometimes with a little star mark in the (off) center- the broken easy out... Makes it a much messier job.

Karl
 
Last edited:
THANKS & THANKS again for the helpful suggestions.

Followup;

1. Heated, applied the wax a couple times--no luck.

2. Drilled out the center and again repeated the heat/wax

3. Voila! I got it to move a very little bit, followed with the easy-out.

A good day & the block will be on its way for cleaning & magnafluxing!!!
 
Don't forget to remove the fuel pump bushing so the gantry can be rodded out. It takes a special driver. I think that front plug is special as well.
 
Andy said:
Don't forget to remove the fuel pump bushing so the gantry can be rodded out. It takes a special driver. I think that front plug is special as well.
Click to expand...

I made a driver from a bolt, cut down the head until you're sure it will pass through the block, use a punch to drive it... Use the same to put it back in. I've saved a few used bushings and found that they're better than the (only) one I've bought new...
Karl
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top