HELP: ready to start again...n/g

gypsycandle

gypsycandle

Member
Hi Guys, I took my car apart 5 months ago...It was running fine. Now I put it all back together and it won't start. I sanded the points, checked the spark at the points(nice blue), took the plugs out cleaned them(they were wet. Checked the gap (35). Charged the battery fully (twice), filled the cells with distilled water. I had installed new tail lights , head lights, they are all working fine and the horn is also.
I put 2 tablespoons of MMO in each cylinder and turned it by hand 10 times, replaced the plugs and zippo, no start. I took the plugs out again and they were soaked again???
What have i missed? Frustrated in Florida. Thanks.
 

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I took the plugs out again and they were soaked again
Click to expand...

What are they soaked with, gas or oil? If gas, it sounds like you have no fire to the plugs.

checked the spark at the points(nice blue)
Click to expand...

Sound like a bad condenser, there should only be a small spark at the points.
 
Sounds like you have gas and spark. Air is a given. :)

Take the distributor cap off. When you crank the car, does the rotor spin? I've had the oil pump gear break after a car sat for a while and while all conditions seemed perfect, The distributor rotor wasn't spinning.

This is down at the bottom of the distributor shaft and has a pin in it that can sheer.

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Sounds as if you are over choking. Pull the chokefor one or two revolutions only. Is gas leaking from carb throat?

Sewall
 
Tap on the carb, "maybe" the float valve is stuck open???---ALSO, hold the throttle WIDE OPEN while cranking, to UN-FLOOD it.
Bill W.
 
Katy...the spark IS small with a cracking sound. I'm wondering if the distributor body has a bad ground to block from sitting (could that be possible?) Tapping the carb didn't help it start ...it turns over but no hint of any firing going on .
 
Hi Candle,

Florida humidity vs. dry air in Arizona in either the Fall or Spring with cool nights and warm humid days ...... very possible condensate moisture/water mixed in with regular gas or ethanol gas when purchased, or when stored a few months in gas tank, in sediment bowl, and/or in carburetor bowl.

If everything electrical works, and one gets good spark at plugs when engine cranks, and engine is getting fuel and not flooding, try completely draining gas tank, sediment bowl, & carburetor and replenish with "fresh" gas.
 
Charlie: no i used some from the shed for the lawn mower...Only put about a pint in... I'll go get some new gas...I also use Seafoam in my gas. I didn't realize that it goes bad...thanks. :)
 
H.L. yes that's what i'm going to do next...fresh gas..sigh...lol the gas was not in teh tank for 5 months...I had a hole in the tank and i took the tank out 5 months ago to have it fixed. But i will drain what i did put in and go get some new.
 
Yeah. If you painted the engine and the distributor body is not getting a good ground to the block, your spark plugs may not be doing the work they need to do.
 
Florida ... humidity ..... Springtime or Fall ..... cool nights ...... warm moist days .... unconditioned garage ...... warm moist air condensing on many different cool metal electrical connections causing metal oxidation on metal wire connections retarding electrical flow ..... can happen occasionally in only five (5) months when Model A is not in use ...... multi-meter electrical check from battery to plugs never a bad idea in addition to moisture in fuel.

From years of experience: Used on wire connections located on half mile high coastal communications towers .... expensive because of large 8 oz. container, (used to have 4 oz.); but, will protect and end all Model A "exposed" electrical connection problems for almost eternity.

Kopr-Shield TM Compound-The copper colloidal surface treatment that protects, lubricates and enhances conductivity between all electrical connections. Catalog No: CP8-TB, Codale Item No: 8777, UPC: 78621080636T&B CP8TB 8OZ CORROSION INHIBITOR Kopr-Shield
Price: $18.98 ea
 
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