Help please deuce gurus

32Gnu

Senior Member
As I move forward on my 32 I keep finding parts boxed up in my dads collection and trying to match them up with my build....

What I have is a 8ba with a 39 "78" toploader trans..

Question #1 is the top picture a 32 trans shifter assembly and can the whole top section be used with the 39 trans?

#2 I am using a 10" clutch and pressure plate with 32 pedals.. why is the pedal link so close to the clutch arm.. I have the link as close as i can get it and its still too long.. The lower pedal arm sits above the floorboard..

I cant seem to locate a David Rehor book for a lot of the info I need..

Any help you guys could give me I would appreciate as usual..
 

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The 32 top will not work the 39 trans. The movement of the levers is insufficent and the second high fork will not fit the synchro. I tried this in 71 and it did not work then either.
 
Andy-No 32 handle then? I guess just the handle itself cannot be changed either without cutting it up?? It looks like the 32 handle into the top sits at a bit of an angle compared to the later handle which is plumb going into the housing...

Lawson.. Thanks... You gave me a good excuse to join the EV8 club.. just joined.... My old man was a member I guess I should be too....
 
As I move forward on my 32 I keep finding parts boxed up in my dads collection and trying to match them up with my build....

What I have is a 8ba with a 39 "78" toploader trans..

Question #1 is the top picture a 32 trans shifter assembly and can the whole top section be used with the 39 trans?

#2 I am using a 10" clutch and pressure plate with 32 pedals.. why is the pedal link so close to the clutch arm.. I have the link as close as i can get it and its still too long.. The lower pedal arm sits above the floorboard..

I cant seem to locate a David Rehor book for a lot of the info I need..

Any help you guys could give me I would appreciate as usual..
:D It would have been better if you had taken the pic of the ****** lid from the other side . 32's have the bosses for the E-brake handle . The rear shifting fork won't fit in the groove on the first-reverse gear :) On the clutch pedal thing it looks like the rear pin on the clutch rod is WAY OVER CENTER and that won't work real well . I just looked at this setup on a 33 and the pickup point for the clutch rod is well behind the pivot pin and Comparing pics of 32-33 & 34 clutch pedals they are consistent in this . I would start with the clutch pedal . There's 32 guys on here that can carry this further for you and I will defer to them :D David J
 
32Gnu,

You can use a '32 trans shifter assembly with a '39 transmission, but you have to replace both shift forks or it simply will not fit as stated above. A simpler route to go is to use a '36-'39 shifter assembly. If you want to retain the hand brake lever on the side of the shifter assembly, there is an adapter available to permit you to do so or you can make one yourself.

As for your clutch pedal problem, I agree with David J that the clutch release arm is too far rearward. It also appears to be somewhat bent rearward in the second photo. Your threaded clutch release rod looks like it may be a later one, most of which are longer than an original '32.

Those two latter possible issues do not look severe enough to completely solve your problem. Are you sure that the fork on the clutch release rod is lined up properly with the flat sides of the clutch release bearing hub? You can easily verify that by removing the stamped inspection plate on the upper part of the transmission bell housing and checking it out with a well-focused flashlight.

Come back to us after you have checked the clutch release fork/hub alignment suggested above.

David

P.S. Thanks for your interest in the book. I hope that you find it to be informative.
 
There is a thread here on the barn that had dimensions of a proper 32 release lever - check if your lever matches those dimensions.
That would be a start.
Are your pedals in the right position? The k-member leg looks like it has received a bit of massaging - if the pedal is a 32, the pedal box is correct, the lever is the right one, and the release bearing fork and collar are correctly engaged (as mentioned above), then all mshould be well.

Mart.
 
One potential problem is the holes drilled in the clutch release shaft are drilled incorrectly. Basically the throw out shaft hole is clocked incorrectly in relation to the clutch arm hole. I had that problem years ago with a repro shaft I installed. It placed the release arm too far back just like in your picture. I had to remove the engine & trans and put the original shaft back in. Knowing what I know now and all else fails and the holes are indeed wrong, I would just redrill the exposed end.
 
The front clutch rod pin in the throwout arm on the ****** looks to line up roughly with the front edge of the ****** lid in the retracted position - That's where it is on my 33-34 cars that are fine . The rear clutch rod pin on the clutch pedal looks to have been moved up and forward to me . I would suspect either the wrong clutch pedal or the 32 one was modified to work with a different motor ****** - Like stated above it looks like there has been some " massaging " done :confused: Before you tear anything apart take some good pics of the clutch pedal so the guys can see what the issue is . :D David J
 
I am running a '39 tans in my '32. I had a machine shop chuck the shifter handle in a lathe, cut it to the length of the '32 and turn down the end so I could run a die on it to cut threads for the shifter ball. I then used the photos in the Owner's Manual ("Instruction Book) to bend it to the shape of a '32. I am happy with the result. Note that there are both early and late shapes for the handle.

Charlie Stephens
 
Well your pedals are 32 the clevis and rod look good, the orrientation of the bolt holding your 7511 arm are good. What it shows is someone has heated the 7511 arm for some other application, because it does not look like my 32 arm with the bolt parallel to the ground. It should be more upright. Solution is to just heat and bend to the correct or more upright position.
 
:D After seeing better pics your clutch rod looks to be too long . According to a Dec 1932 parts book the rod should be B-7521-A and shows as 3 1/8 " long . The one in the pic is obviously longer than that . :D DASSA E-Z FIX :D David J
 
NOTE>> This car did have a bb olds in it at one time with the 39 pedals... so maybe it is bent..
 
Looked in the clutch stuff pile and this was there . 3 1/8 " long so it must be 32 :confused: Anyway this would cure your problem and I will trade you or you can just shorten yours . The 3 1/8 dimension is to the center of the pin hole . David J
 

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Does the clutch release ok?

It may be ok, but you need to shorten the threaded link a little.

It may be worth waiting until all the floorboards are in, so the correct pedal height can be worked out.

Little bit more difficult working from photo's, rather than looking at the thing directly, but there does not seem too much wrong from where I am sitting.

I will go and look at my 32 setup and see if anything stands out.

Mart.

EDIT: David J posted above while I was typing - seems we are thinking along the same lines.

EDIT: Went out to the garage and checked my 32 - I forgot but there is no gearbox in it - there isn't even a clutch pedal! I'm losing my grip!
 
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Looks to me that your arm is (I believe)a commercial one.they are clocked a bit different.Had the same problem you are having.
 
Looked in the clutch stuff pile and this was there . 3 1/8 " long so it must be 32 :confused: Anyway this would cure your problem and I will trade you or you can just shorten yours . The 3 1/8 dimension is to the center of the pin hole . David J


You are correct sir..... I just cut beveled and welded one to 3 1/4" and guess what? PERFECT!! Even have a little room for the jambnut..

Next question.. what stops the pedals on return.. The floorboard section at the firewall?

Is the floor supposed to be made out of wood?

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP EVERYONE!!...
 
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