Help Needed - No Power at Load

Mitch//pa said:
You may have a lot of issues from dist, to carb, to vacuum leaks,,ignition switch ,,, maybe someone put a wireless lower plate in it Or you have a bad lower plate wire,,, what's going on with the un-armored dist cable?.. Seems to have a tie and fuel hose over it or such
It seems a lot of makeshift has been done previously..
If it were mine I would go through all mentioned including the junction box and other ext wiring..
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Yeah it appears the distributor cable has fuel hose and zip ties over it. Why!?! I can't understand why/how that can be considered "a fix".

Went out this morning and found this
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Looks like it is cavitated, possibly by spark arc? And the blue paint....I don't know?
 
Maybe a fix after rotor damaged the cap? I just installed a new cap and rotor and had NO clearance! I think the gap should be .010 to .050? My gap .020 worked for me :-)
 
Just a little off subject...
What's that stub between the head and the ex. manifold?
Does the bailing wire from the stud to the intake manifold have a purpose?

One more question, what's that blue car in the background?
I find a lot of Model A owners have other classic vehicles
 
barkleydave said:
I would bet there is a manifold leak at the spacer or the smaller bolt on the manifold flange. Sounds like more than one gremlin is at work here
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@Barkley Dave, good tip. I sprayed carb clean around the bolt and the carb spacer, but didn't notice any jump in RPMS.

Oh, there's a kicker, this car once (when I bought it) ran really well. The next day, I started getting this bogging on load. So, it's something that yielded in a super noticeable difference between one day's time.

The night I got it, I drove it like 3 hrs home, so heat is certainly a factor
 
alvisoroadsters said:
@Barkley Dave, good tip. I sprayed carb clean around the bolt and the carb spacer, but didn't notice any jump in RPMS.

Oh, there's a kicker, this car once (when I bought it) ran really well. The next day, I started getting this bogging on load. So, it's something that yielded in a super noticeable difference between one day's time.

The night I got it, I drove it like 3 hrs home
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Your a brave man...
 
You know, the more I think of it, the idle was intermittently missing yesterday.

Something like "PUTT PUTT PUTT PUTT PUTT PUTT _____ PUTT"

Could one of the secondary straps be going out?
 
I would locate a good original top plate, and go back to the original points and heat proof condenser. I've heard that some of the repro upper plate had the points located a bit off from where they should be for proper spark timing.

With the timing pin in the camshaft gear dimple, the rotor should be exactly located as in my picture, and if the spark lever is all the way UP, the points should be just ready to open. Remember the rotor turns CCW.

Have you let the fuel line run gas into a quart jar to check for good fuel flow? The 3 hour drive may have loosened some junk and plugged the flow some.
 

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I haven't. I replaced the fuel filter under that same notion, but haven't checked flow out of the fuel line. Is there a specification for that?

Tonight I'm bringing my meter home, I can scope the primary pattern and see how the condensor is fairing. Also will check timing, point gap, and fuel volume
 
Starting to think it could definitely be some gunk in the fuel line, is there a good baseline for time and quantity at the fuel line? Like Tom said, it makes sense it could be a fault
 
alvisoroadsters said:
I haven't. I replaced the fuel filter under that same notion, but haven't checked flow out of the fuel line. Is there a specification for that?

Tonight I'm bringing my meter home, I can scope the primary pattern and see how the condensor is fairing. Also will check timing, point gap, and fuel volume
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I've never timed the flow, but you can tell if it's free flowing or blocked. Let it run for several seconds to make sure it doesn't slow after a good start.

Have you looked into the tank?
If it doesn't have the small filter in the top of the tank valve, I'd install one.
 
alvisoroadsters said:
That carb spacer is a bit of a mystery. It has a street fitting and T's vacuum to some sort of PCV Valve and the wipers. Never noticed the crack
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I'm curious about the PCV Valve that was mentioned. A incorrectly sized PCV valve can be a source of a vacuum leak.

Can you run it without the PCV Valve connected?
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
I've never timed the flow, but you can tell if it's free flowing or blocked. Let it run for several seconds to make sure it doesn't slow after a good start.

Have you looked into the tank?
If it doesn't have the small filter in the top of the tank valve, I'd install one.
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Hi Tom, I will definitely take a look at the tank. When I switched the filter, I monitored how fast the bowl filled up and it looked fast. No idea post bowl, though, but I'll take a look there and the tank too.

I'm thinking about pulling the spacer plate off to isolate all that unneeded/ungennie pieces to rule out any vacuum leaks surrounding that piece.
 
Pulled the carburetor spacer off last night and plugged the fitting at the PCV Valve. Took it for a spin and it drove nicer than it had previously.

Still had a fueling issue, I realized if I punched it hard it would choke and backfire. During this time if I pressed the throttle again it had no "umph" at all, however, if I waited a couple seconds it would pick right back up.

I'm gonna pull the carb again and check the float level. I had eyeballed it the other night, and it feels like to me that the level may be lower than spec, causing it to run out of fuel.

I did pull the line at the carb and watched the fuel volume into a jar; the flow was good, and I didn't notice any restriction.
 
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