Help needed again

V4F

V4F

Well-known member
new problem . 1928 roadster . had the pan off to check bearings . rear main is .001 . when putting the oil back in it , at 3 qts it started to run out the rear main brg . what am i not seeing here ? thank you .. steve
 
You didn't forget to put the rear cork seal back in did you? How about the oil drip tube? Was it plugged? Did the pan seat correctly towards the rear without crimping or rolling the cork seal and the bolts went thru the holes?? Just got done with mine on my '28 Roadster and have only a small seep. Good luck!
 
tube was clear (ran a wire thru it) , new pan gaskets , no leak there . it appears to run right out the brg . actually cant believe it poured out with only 3 qts . so whats next my dear friends ................ steve
 
steve norcal said:
new problem . 1928 roadster . had the pan off to check bearings . rear main is .001 . when putting the oil back in it , at 3 qts it started to run out the rear main brg . what am i not seeing here ? thank you .. steve
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Not enough to go on here...
Did you add the first quart through the distributor hole to fill the valve chamber? If so, the oil is passing through the bearing...from the rear chamber area...regardless the pan is going to have to come off ... sounds like something is plugged...check it again.

Please let us know what you find.

Dave in MN
 
steve norcal said:
tube was clear (ran a wire thru it) , new pan gaskets , no leak there . it appears to run right out the brg . actually cant believe it poured out with only 3 qts . so whats next my dear friends ................ steve
Click to expand...

Steve,
The oil passage in the cap could be plugged even though the return pipe appears open. When you have the rear cap off, carefully remove the pipe and then with a small punch passed through the threaded hole in the cap drive the small plug directly above the pipe out. Run a drill bit through the oil passage in the cap to clean out any debris. Turn the bit by hand as it can catch if you use a powered drill when it bottoms out causing damage to your cap, bit or wrist. (Trust me on this one...) I have often seen babbitt, powder or small bits from timing gears and other stuff I could not identify stuck in the oil passage. A friend of mine had his engine start to leak within 3-400 miles of replacing a failed timing gear. The oil passage was plugged with bits of the timing gear. Make sure the small plug in the cap is secure and sealed when replacing it. If the fit is a bit loose, place the plug on an anvil and give it a rap with a hammer. The hit will flatten it and a heavier strike will slightly increase the diameter of the plug to create a tight fit to the cap. A missing or leaking plug will most often result in a rear main leak when the engine is running. Re-install the pipe and tack weld or braze the pipe to the cap so it is secure. I use a wire feed (MIG) welder to place two small spots of weld at the intersection of the pipe and cap located opposite of each other and clear of the cork seal area.

I hope you discover the cause sooner rather than later!
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Good Day!

Dave in MN
 
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only a couple of shims , not a stack . i believe the shims arein correctly . thank you guys ... steve

i didnt put the oil in . im helping a guy . gonna repull the motor & look see ... thank you all .. steve
 
Steve,

Does this motor have one of those flexable tube oil breathers?

Maybe the fellow poured the oil in too fast and it overflowed down the flex tube onto the ground!!

Do not ask how I know that is possible!!! I had the end of the flex tube routed down that square hole in the engine mount and oil ran down the side of flywheel housing and looked just like a rear main leak!!
 
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OIL LEAK FOUND !!! it was the gasket over the rear of the cam ! it was running down the seam of the flywheel cover & into the rear main area . fooled me !! ... thank you all for your help ! ................... steve
 
tube is on , oil went thru dist. thus running out the cam . this is my theroy by looking at the rotted gasket ....................... steve
 
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