So I have a 31' coupe. We have owned it 6 weeks. Changed the oil when we first got it. Put in O'Reily 10W-30 full synthetic. Seems to drip quite a bit from around the oil pan. I will address the seal later. I have had an experienced mechanic look at, familiar with A's and he doesnt think its the rear main probably just time to do the oil pan gasket. Anywho, I plan on changing the oil every 500 miles. Is there something maybe a bit cheaper than the $23/ 5 quarts from O'Reily? I just feel like I'm throwing away good money putting that oil in and dumping it every 500 miles. I know there are a lot of theads on which oil is best. I just really haven't seen one that helps me narrow down my choice. I want to stick with 10W-30. Just not sure where to go from there. If this annoys anyone that I'm asking an oil question, I'm sorry. Just a bit confused.
help me narrow down oil selection
- Thread starter rfequity
- Start date
Mister Moose
Senior Member
You are asking a question that has been vigorously opined on this and many forums. Actually, you're leading into 3 questions?
1) Which oil is best for my use?
2) How often should I change it?
3) Should I get an oil filter
And if you want to go further,
4) Should I get an oil pressure gauge?
You change the oil for 2 reasons: It breaks down thermally and it gets dirty. With no filter, you need to change it frequently, but not as often as in the day when driving was 60% or more on dirt roads. And if you change it often, there isn't much point in the extended change interval offered by synthetic, and you sure don't need the high heat stability of synthetic.
I'm running Shell Rotella 15-40 (non synthetic) changed sometime after 500 miles when I get around to it.
My pickup that drives to VT all winter? Synthetic for cold starts. My Turbo Eclipse? Synthetic for stability in the high heat turbocharger bearing environment.
1) Which oil is best for my use?
2) How often should I change it?
3) Should I get an oil filter
And if you want to go further,
4) Should I get an oil pressure gauge?
You change the oil for 2 reasons: It breaks down thermally and it gets dirty. With no filter, you need to change it frequently, but not as often as in the day when driving was 60% or more on dirt roads. And if you change it often, there isn't much point in the extended change interval offered by synthetic, and you sure don't need the high heat stability of synthetic.
I'm running Shell Rotella 15-40 (non synthetic) changed sometime after 500 miles when I get around to it.
My pickup that drives to VT all winter? Synthetic for cold starts. My Turbo Eclipse? Synthetic for stability in the high heat turbocharger bearing environment.
Gene F
Well-known member
RFEQUITY, forget about the cost of the oil. My new engine cost ~$5,000. Look at oil as a consumable. You know, like paper towels, socks, or something like that.
Most people use non-detergent 30 weight oil. The oil may not be so thin, and might leak just a bit less. Just a bit.
Most people use non-detergent 30 weight oil. The oil may not be so thin, and might leak just a bit less. Just a bit.
chrs1961815
Well-known member
I have used 5w30 and 10w30. For a 5 quart bottle of Penzoil it runs about 20 bucks.
Most people change their oil every season but it depends how much you drive your car in a year.
I would recommend you do some research and read previous threads on here about oil.
Most people change their oil every season but it depends how much you drive your car in a year.
I would recommend you do some research and read previous threads on here about oil.
redmodelt
Well-known member
"Most people use non-detergent 30 weight oil. The oil may not be so thin, and might leak just a bit less. Just a bit." I don't think most people use 30W non-detergent. Non-detergent leads to sludge.
10-30 or 10-40 or something in the that ball park, depending on time of year and your weather. If your engine rebuilder suggest a type/weight of oil for break in, use that at least to start with.
10-30 or 10-40 or something in the that ball park, depending on time of year and your weather. If your engine rebuilder suggest a type/weight of oil for break in, use that at least to start with.
McMimmcs
Well-known member
I disagree that most people use non-detergent oil. Maybe 50 years ago but not today. I think most people have been educated to the obvious benefits of using a detergent oil.
Don't over think this. The car has been around a lot longer than you, and will probably out live you. Who knows what oil has been used in the car in the past, and it's still here.
Put in your favorite oil, and drive it. I'd extend your change intervals a bit, 1500-3000 miles is fine, with or without a filter. I know, most here will disagree....
Think of how many air cooled VW's were and still are running around. They don't have oil filters, and the oil in those is much more critical to the car than in the A. In VW's they run hotter oil temps, and the oil provides a good amount of the engine cooling. 60's VW had an oil change interval of 3000 miles from the factory.
Unless you or a friend of yours owns an oil company, extend the interval and drive the car.
Put in your favorite oil, and drive it. I'd extend your change intervals a bit, 1500-3000 miles is fine, with or without a filter. I know, most here will disagree....
Think of how many air cooled VW's were and still are running around. They don't have oil filters, and the oil in those is much more critical to the car than in the A. In VW's they run hotter oil temps, and the oil provides a good amount of the engine cooling. 60's VW had an oil change interval of 3000 miles from the factory.
Unless you or a friend of yours owns an oil company, extend the interval and drive the car.
Love the question!
We use 20W-50 HD oil from Walmart. Change once per year or 500 miles. I also add one bottle of blue STP as the last half quart.
Your pan leakage could be being caused by the synthetic oil and the light oil weight.
How many miles do you think your engine has on it? Any valve noise?
We use 20W-50 HD oil from Walmart. Change once per year or 500 miles. I also add one bottle of blue STP as the last half quart.
Your pan leakage could be being caused by the synthetic oil and the light oil weight.
How many miles do you think your engine has on it? Any valve noise?
This is super helpful and what I was looking for. I have no idea how many miles on the engine. I dont think there is any valve noise. I have been putting MMO in each gas tank fill up. So far we have driven about 500 miles in 6 weeks. So maybe we could do 2000 to 3000 miles per year, who knows?
Pete
BANNED
Modern technology has developed synthetic oil that is far superior to anything they had even 60 years ago. Any engine with any kind of bearings will last longer with modern oil, even a "dipper" engine.
The amount of "TLC" and money you apply to your engine is determined by you as the owner. Remember, it will run for a very long time on liquid margarine and that stuff is dirt cheap.
These engines did NOT leak from the factory and they did not have fancy modern one piece neoprene seals. If it leaks and you don't like it, fix it. You can not fix a leak by driving it more or pouring in stop leak.
Oil changing interval on this type of engine with no filter and no air cleaner, is usually determined by the amount and type of driving. Various search engines should turn up enough reading on the subject to last for several days.
Very few people realize it but the plain old library down on the corner probably has more info on just about any subject pertaining old cars than is on the internet and it was written by old people back when these cars were "current".
One thing for sure, you will find far less typos and bad information there.
The amount of "TLC" and money you apply to your engine is determined by you as the owner. Remember, it will run for a very long time on liquid margarine and that stuff is dirt cheap.
These engines did NOT leak from the factory and they did not have fancy modern one piece neoprene seals. If it leaks and you don't like it, fix it. You can not fix a leak by driving it more or pouring in stop leak.
Oil changing interval on this type of engine with no filter and no air cleaner, is usually determined by the amount and type of driving. Various search engines should turn up enough reading on the subject to last for several days.
Very few people realize it but the plain old library down on the corner probably has more info on just about any subject pertaining old cars than is on the internet and it was written by old people back when these cars were "current".
One thing for sure, you will find far less typos and bad information there.
johnneilson
Well-known member
chrs1961815
Well-known member
Don't want to ruffle any feathers or get off topic here, but these cars DID leak from the factory. At the dealership they had drip pans under each car. Also, the felt on the wishbone ball was almost meant to be lubricated by leaking oil.
Ernie Vitucci
Well-known member
Good Evening...Just a point...The original owners manual,from Henry, still available from most Model A Suppliers and the two national clubs, calls for 20wt in the winter and 40wt in the summer. Our engine builder has us running 30wt detergent all year and our engine seems to like it. We tend to change it about every 800 miles or so. We do run an oil filter and an air filter...the air filter does tend to make the engine run slightly rich... Ernie in Arizona
Pete
BANNED
No feathers ruffled here.
There were a few leakers got through but if you bought a new A and it leaked, the dealer would fix on it till it didn't leak.
Been there seen it.
CWPASADENA
Well-known member
I have 3 model A engines with Babbitt bearings that do not leak.
I run 10-40 in the winter and 20-50 in the summer when I go on tours.
Any currently available oil is much better than the best premium oils that were available when these cars were new.
My opinion,
Chris W.
I run 10-40 in the winter and 20-50 in the summer when I go on tours.
Any currently available oil is much better than the best premium oils that were available when these cars were new.
My opinion,
Chris W.