Help! It won't run. MORE HELP!!

S

solsticerick

Junior Member
We went for a ride today, and got about 1/4 mile from home and it (1930 Model A) started chugging and missing, and then it just died. I got it started and it seemed to idle just fine, but when I started out again, missing, chugging and jerking; and a couple of backfires. I thought perhaps it was running out of gas, so I got to travel another 1/4 mile and added gas. It started , albeit, I had to try a number of times. I got back on the road and everything seemed fine, but then the same; and this time I couldn't get it restarted!!

I would move the spark advance all the way up, bring the accelerator lever half way down and start. A couple of times, I had to use the choke. If I turn the choke control all the way to the right, it doesn't run; but I don't notice a difference between one turn and four turns.

Gas?, electrical?, blown engine?
 
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Re: Help! It won't run.

reset points to .018-.022, if it is the model a style points make sure the screw that tightens on the points is thight if not the points will move on you wile driving. next ajust the choke rod all the way to the right than back off 1/2 to one full turn, pull spark lever down three notches,and put gas all the way up. turn key on and push starter button . pull choke and let it go. should fire right up.
 
Re: Help! It won't run.

Napa sells the Echlin FA76 condensor for the modern disti upper plate Some Ford tractor dealers also stock some condensors for the old tractors.

Most Model A catalog vendors have quick delivery and it will not harm you to carry a spare from now on....
 
I did what you fellas suggested, and it still won't start! Could it be the coil? Can I put a VOM on the coil and get a reading?

Popeye - question about your starting proc. You wrote spark down 3 notches and gas all the way up. Isn't that the normal running locations rather than starting?
 
Did you take your carb. off and carefully clean it? I'm thinking you might have it partially clogged by very fine particles that "escaped" sediment bulb. OR if you have a perfectly clean spare carb., install it & see if there's any difference. Good luck.
 
Do the easy checks first. Turn the key on, lift the left side of the hood, hold the coil wire about 1/4" from a head nut and see if you have a good blue spark. I hold the wire with my left hand and push the starter rod with my right hand.

To check for gas just pull the choke while you crank the engine for a few compression strokes. You should have gas running out of the carb intake, and if you do then you should have enough to start the engine.

Always determine if the problem is fuel, or gas before throwing new parts in.
 
Mitch Bunkin in PA said:
Did you take your carb. off and carefully clean it? I'm thinking you might have it partially clogged by very fine particles that "escaped" sediment bulb. OR if you have a perfectly clean spare carb., install it & see if there's any difference. Good luck.
Click to expand...

This is what I found in my coupe. Along with the fine particles I found much other "junk" in the tank. But like Mitch says you can take the carb off and check it. At least take the filter out (the one by the intake gas line to the carb) and see how much crud is in it. This should give you a good idea if junk in your gas is a problem or do like Tom says and that will tell you if it is electrical.
 
Always carry a spray can of starting fluid, (ether). A "poof" of it in the air cleaner or carb throat will rule out loss of fuel supply and it will not flood the engine or "drown" the spark plugs. Loosen the gas cap in case it's vent is plugged or you have mistakenly substituted a NON-VENTED radiator cap on the gas tank. Study the gas cap & make SURE it's vented. I vent my frustrations to My Ghost, when I can find him! Bill W.
 
This stuff should do it! read the label.
 

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solsticerick said:
I did what you fellas suggested, and it still won't start! Could it be the coil? Can I put a VOM on the coil and get a reading?

Popeye - question about your starting proc. You wrote spark down 3 notches and gas all the way up. Isn't that the normal running locations rather than starting?
Click to expand...

I think Popeye has that just backwards. With a stock setup properly timed, always start with the spark up and the gas down about three notches, unless you're fond of replacing your Bendix drive. :o
 
After trying to start it after each of my attempts to fix it, I ran the battery down pretty far! After charging overnight, it started right up this afternoon!! It ran like a top, so I took it down the road and then out on the highway - deja vu!! Sputter, miss, backfire & stall. After further experimentation, the missing occurs well into 2nd gear at higher RPM's. Per Tom's instruction, the coil sparked. My aptitude is quickly becoming challenged. I think that I will just change the coil and if that fails, it seems like taking the carb apart is the next item, AND that scares me.

700rpm - Thanks for the clarification!

Thanks to everyone!
 
A few years ago there were several people complaining of missing at high RPM. They changed the points with new sets from vendors and the the problem went away. It seemed that the spring on the points that hold the rubbing block against the cam was weak, allowing the points to bounce on the cam at high RPM's.
 
Coils are pretty hardy, not to mention expensive. And I doubt it's the carb (90% of carb problems are electric). I'm not saying it's not the carb, but there are a host of devilish things that can go wrong in the distributor. I'd start there, and I'd start with a new condenser. Then see if you can duplicate the problem with the car in the driveway, not driving. Let us know what happens.
 
My a did the same thing ... Condenser was shot. Even after replacing it I some how got a bad new one .. So second try was a charm . Now it purrs. I had to make sure the condenser mounting tab was getting good contact to the distributor
 
When you take off in first it seems to be OK at higher RPM's, so I'd say the points are OK. If you have a good blue spark at least 1/4" to 1/2" long I'd say the coil is OK, and the condenser is probably OK. It doesn't hurt to carry a spare good condenser, so change it if you want and carry one for a spare.

It sounds fuel related to me. As soon as it starts missing, pull the choke a little and see if that helps. First time out (cool engine compartment) does it act up as soon as you hit second and high? If it only does it with a hot engine compartment, then it may be ethanol related.

As soon as it acts up get out and pull the carb drain plug while holding a quart jar under it to catch the gas. Do you get a strong stream for a long time? Have you tried running with the gas cap removed, or loose? My first thought is a plugged filter or inlet at the fuel valve. Where the fuel line screws into the carb, how much steel line is past the brass ferrule?
 
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