Help I’m Lost

Re: Help I’m Lost

Skip Haney is the man for rebuilt flathead coils. In my experience ( limited), I've found bad coils usually work, then don't as they get warm.

Red
 
Re: Help I’m Lost

34 fordor owner said:
Does anyone have a good recommendation of where to get a good coil for a dome distributor?
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Here is some Skip Haney info for you...:)

Click on picture to Enlarge. ;)
 

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Re: Help I’m Lost

2.4 at the coil is not enough. Try a "hot wire" directly from the battery and see if it runs fine. You are losing voltage somewhere. You can also try bypassing the resistor. Maybe a loose or dirty connection or the replaceable parts of the switch are worn out. I hope you flushed out the fuel system.
 
Re: Help I’m Lost

i think the first thing to do is to clean the gas pum, put a gas filter before it, see if gas comes out when you start. if all is good, put a wire between + and coil and test to start.
like deuce roadster said 2.4v at the coil is not enough!
 
Re: Help I’m Lost

I have taken the tank out had it cleaned and I have flushed the fuel lines. I will have to try a live wire to the coil and see if that does anything. Where is a good place to find a new switch at?
 
Re: Help I’m Lost

If the hot wire to the coil helps get the engine to start, then you can
check to see if the problem is the ballast resister or the switch or the coil
or the condenser..




.
 
Re: Help I’m Lost

On the fuse block, what voltages do I need to be seeing here? Also what is a good way to set up a hot wire on the coil?
 
Re: Help I’m Lost

You should have a positive ground system, so your negative side of the battery
is the hot wire. Run a wire from the negative side of the battery to the negative
on the coil and see if it starts. Pull the wire off to shut down.




.
 
Re: Help I’m Lost

Lanny said:
You should have a positive ground system, so your negative side of the battery
is the hot wire. Run a wire from the negative side of the battery to the negative
on the coil and see if it starts. Pull the wire off to shut down.




.
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Okay I can do that what is the best wire to do this with? Also how do I check to see if a condenser is bad?
Thank you for all the help I’m 16 going into this just trying to learn and have fun!
 
Re: Help I’m Lost

Do the test with the hot wire, but don't run it for more than a few minutes. The coil should be fed through a ballast resistor for extended running.
Like said, test to see if it will run with a direct hot wire, but treat it as part of the troubleshooting process rather than any sort of fix.
 
Re: Help I’m Lost

Mart said:
Do the test with the hot wire, but don't run it for more than a few minutes. The coil should be fed through a ballast resistor for extended running.
Like said, test to see if it will run with a direct hot wire, but treat it as part of the troubleshooting process rather than any sort of fix.
Click to expand...

Okay, Is the ballast resistor what is located on the fuse block?
 
Re: Help I’m Lost

You can use #14 or #16 Gauge wire. A jumper cable with alligator clips would be great if small enough to connect at the coil.

Al H
 
Re: Help I’m Lost

First of all take note of Marts post at #33, very important otherwise you could cook your original coil. When replacing your high tension plug leads you must be very careful not to get just one plug lead positioned incorrectly in either of the dist caps. If this occurs then the engine will run a little OFF beat or rough, so recheck these. When testing the voltage at the coil what were the circumstances of the test? Was the engine running or not running ? If not running then were the timing contacts in the dist. open or closed because this makes a difference with the coil loading the circuit or not. Also if engine not running then how long did you have the ignition switch turned on for because the longer its on for then the hotter the resistor becomes and therefore the lower the voltage reading at the coil will be. The resistor is in the coil primary circuit to enable a good strong spark from a cold engine start. So therefore 2.4 volts could be OK depending how you tested. Use an analogue voltmeter because digital multimeters will jump all over the place on old cars. Dont get tangled up with all sorts of tests and changes, do one thing at a time otherwise you wont know what fixed it. You wont be able to test a condenser correctly without a specialized tester. The original Ford V8 condenser is rated at .36mfd where most modern condensers are around .24mfd but will work but not ideal. Regards, Kevin.
 
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