HELP..I'm in Hot Water....!

A good radiator is necessity if the model A is expected to run cool. I am just guessing that all the work that was performed to bobpos radiator it should be good. However, I do prefer a new 8 fins per inch radiator over a repaired radiator in ANY case!!!
 
bobpo said:
It appears that the fluid is coming out somewhere in the core area, probably mid way up the core area. I can't see any leak holes and I CAN'T BELIEVE THE RADIATOR SHOP, WHO HAVE HAD THIS RADIATOR IN 3 TIMES NOW, WOULD HAVE OVER-LOOKED A LEAK.....It goes back in the morning.

I will keep this post updated as I go.
Click to expand...

3 Time's now :eek:, I think I would be looking for another radiator shop, Or buy a new one and get it over, and start driving agin. ;)
 
Well, it's back in the shop with the "older Repair Guy" who supposed is the only one in this century-old radiator shop who knows the old stuff.

He is supposed to call me. Due to the New Baffle Plate he installed (there was no such plate in it before) I can't even see the fluid level. NOW AIN'T THAT A KICKER....?

So I want him to put a couple of inspection holes in the baffle plate and find the leak. AND, they always pressure test the radiators before they leave the shop. Now bare in mind that I always cover the fin area front and back with cardboard prior to removing or replacing and place several layers of duct tape over the Fan blade retainer nut...................!!!!!!
I'll keep you guys informed. Thanks again for the input......

P.S. This IS THE LAST STRAW attempt. Then it goes.......PERIOD!:p:mad:
 
If your radiator happens to be one of the two row radiators that some use to (maybe still) sell that may be the problem. Look at the core on the engine side, if the fin area doesn't extend all the way back to the edge of the radiator frame this will indicate the thin two row core. I had one like that on one of my cars with a tired worn engine. The two row radiator cooled the old engine but when I overhauled the engine it began spitting the water out the overflow pipe and didn't cool worth a damn. I had it boiled out and though it was a purdy it still didn't cool any better. If your radiator turns out to be a two row unit, don't give up, just call Snyder or Smith and Jones or whoever you prefer and get a new 8 fin per inch radiator on the way. The enjoyment that you will have with the model A will be worth it. You may be able to sell the old radiator to someone. Good luck.
 
bobpo, I see you responded to the suggestions I had - seems as though the problem is not with those areas. I surely hope you find a good answer soon. Please let us know what happens. I'd think by now that your rad shop would have refunded whatever you paid in hopes that you wouldn't mention its name here. :)
 
Purdy, you've made it pretty clear as as have the others. I will have to wait for the call from the Ol' Radiator Man in the morning and then play it by ear. You're right on the money and as I explained, this IS the last straw. 'preciate it..............!
 
Hi bobpo,

Truth is, I don't know if a worn cap generates the same problems as a worn shaft. My gut feeling is that the effects would be different and I'm not certain that a worn cap will cause overheating, but I suppose it could.
 
There are a lot of posts on this thread and I apologize if I am duplicating a discussion. My Model A also was loosing water out the overflow pipe. I tried all kinds of things, including rodding out the radiator but it did not solve the problem.

I eventually changed the head gasket and the problem went away! Exhaust gases were getting into the water jacket and lifting the water high enough to go out the overflow pipe. When changing the head gasket inspect the head for any cracks and that it has been recently milled flat. Also, use Permatex head gasket spray sealer on the block, both sides of the gasket and the head on re-assembly. Good luck, Ed
 
Thanks Ed,

I will have the radiator back laater todfay and keep my fingers crossed. If that doesn't work, I would rather check that gasket than get another radiator right away, but I' do the "Wait & See" thing first.:p
 
I got the radiatorback, No Charge. The fella at the shop said he had missed a small leak at the front corner of the tank which he had removed and then replaced the last time. He also cut an inspection hole in the baffle about the size of a penny, so I can check the fluid level. It's all ready to go, but then I got a call from Tom Jordan, Snyders Antique Auto. I know Tom personally and have talked to himmany times with concerns. After explaining the operation of my radiator, he told me to remove the Water Pump Impellor and grind the 4 blades down about one third. He claims that I am getting way too much water flow.

It is a 3 core, staggered tube style, clean and tight now. He claims that the water is pumping so fast into the top tank, that it can't get into the cores fast enough so some of it is blowing out the overflow.

Makes sense, so I will order some gaskets etc., and will do this and then let y'all know.

Thanks again..........Bobpo
 
WELL, IT'S OVER.

CHECK OUT MY LATEST THREAD (Runnin' Kool, Finally) posted today at 8:58 am.

It spells it out in detail. My wife and I even took a little 60 mile tour this evening and even came home after dark for the first time.

You guys who say there is nothing like a ride in a good running Model A are absolutely right.

GREAT FUN AND ESPECIALLY THE LOOKS FROM THE OLDER FOLKS ................

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR INPUT....EVERY LITTLE BIT HELPS.........................:D

"IF IT AIN'T BLUEGRASS, IT AIN'T MUSIC" :p :) ;) :rolleyes:
 
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