HELP..I'm in Hot Water....!

bobpo

bobpo

Well-known member
:mad: I am my wits end with this radiator overheating. I just put that radiator back in the car after having it rodded out, a new baffle plate installed in the upper tank and I had the fill tube moved forward to allow the shell to fit better. I've also re-timed it four (4) times. It actually runs good, just heats up.

I have stuck over $200 in work on this radiator and it's a new one with lots of tubes. I put 50/50 antifreeze, Water-Wetter, and a new 160 Thermostat in the upper hose and in stalled a new Temp Gauge that was reading 190 when I took it for a drive today in 92 degree weather. Anti-Freeze was running from the bottom of the Quail cap (again), and when I parked the 1930 A coupe in the garage I had to put a pan under the radiator to catch all the antifreeze.

This is the third time I have removed the radiator and then replaced it after repairs and I'm out of Ideas. I can't take it for a drive anywhere......HELP-P-P-P :mad:
You might say it's "DEAD IN THE WATER".:confused:

"IF IT AIN'T BLUEGRASS, IT AIN'T MUSIC"
 
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I had the same problem, Had my radiator rodded, It helped but still got hot on longer drives. Put in a new radiator and all is well now.
 
bobpo, it's unclear from your post whether you are having an overheating problem or a coolant loss problem. What did your temp gauge read when you returned from your test drive?

Couple of ideas if you're losing coolant.

Could be a problem with the quail. Mine leaks no matter what I try....so I have switched back to the plain old round radiator cap. No leaks now.

Or the coolant level could have been too high at the start of the drive. Mine is happy right at the baffle; higher than that and it spits out coolant.

One other possibility. Where is the opening of your overflow tube set? I followed some advice in the Service Bulletins and bent mine so that the end of the tube is at the engine side of the radiator neck. This avoids having the coolant from the return pipe discharging into the end of the overflow. This pretty well overcame my coolant loss issue.
 
A few years ago I bought a high buck radiator ($550) from one of the radiator suppliers that you see advertised. I have a temp gauge and a 160 thermostat. It worked fine around town, but out in the desert on a tour with ambient temps above 100 degrees, it boiled over. I could not keep water in the radiator.

One thing I noticed was that the hole in the baffle for the overflow tube was twice the size it needed to be. Water pumping up through the return hose was following right up the tube and out the overflow.

I finally took the radiator to a radiator shop that understands Model A's. I suspected maybe the tubes were clogged with rust from the engine. While I was there the owner removed the upper and lower tanks and forced pressurized fluid through the tubes. The tubes were all open, but there was only two rows of them.

I had him install a new radiator core that had four rows of tubes. Another $400. he also installed a proper Model A baffle. This solved all my over heat problems. I have been out in the desert since in high ambient temperatures and pulling a Mullins trailer and the temp needle remains at 160 degrees.

My advice to anyone is to obtain an original radiator from a swap meet and take it to a radiator shop that speaks Model A and have them install a four row core.

Tom Endy
 
Why do you run a 50/50 antifreeze mix. Unless it is zero degrees or below you really don't need the 50/50 mix. Antifreeze is claimed to have a higher boiling point but It will still be running hot at 190 or even over 212 whether it is boiling or not. Water is a better coolant and absorbs the heat much better than antifreeze. Unless you have a pressurized cooling system there is no advantage in running antifreeze in hot weather. If you don't already have them, I would recommend engine pans. Engine pans are said to increase cooling by 15%, I believe it and use them on mine. Check out the thread, Overheating at speed - Tin cup. it is now on page three and really gets into the subject
 
I use to have fluid coming out around the base of my quail. Rainmaker taught me how to fix it. Get yourself 2 or 3 of the brass gas Gage shims. Put them under the washer under the quail. They will raise the washer enough to seal it and stop the fluid from spitting out.
Jon
 
JBR, are you referring to the Gas Gauge Brass Washer (#13571) listed on p59 of the 2011 Bratton's catalog? Thanks!
 
If all else fails with the cooling system, make sure your distributor shaft isn't worn. My father found out first hand that a worn dis. shaft will cause overheating problems that are illusive.
 
In response to Pilot Dave, I have the Overflow tube at the rear of the neck on the engine side just under the cap. The temp gauge read 190, and I had the radiator level about an inch of so above the core. I drove it for about five miles both at 40 mph and then slowed for about 1/2 mile and the sped up again. Ended up back in the garage with coolant flowing out of the overflow tube and on the bottom of the radiator that I think may have been from the quail's seat.
 
I will try all the items mentioned, as I say, I have to do something. My wife of 50+ years wants to know why we have spent all this money on a car that sits in the shop all the time with me working on it all the time. She has a good point. I know I need to replace the Distributor Cap as the contacts are definitely worn beyond clearance (replicating a sloppy shaft if I'm not correct, right, 29RPU?

I also like the idea of the Brass shim gaskets, thanks JBR.
 
bobpo,
I know just how you feel, I just got mine where it won't overheat.
The 1st. thing I would do is get reid of the 160 thermostat.
And I would stick with the 50/50 mix., That's not what is causing your car to overheat.
If you radiator was rodded out "right" and not just cleaned, you might take it back to where you had it rodded and let them ck. it out, Most radiator shop,s have a 90 day warnt.
If that does not work and your car is running good, ex. the overheat prob. I would go with a new radiator from Snyders or Brassworks.
Overheat problem's with an "A" model that is running good is 95% of the time the radiator. JMHO.
Good Luck. ;)
 
Is it possible there is a blockage in the engine somehow? Are the waterpump fins pushing to much water? In my old radiator I ran water just under the baffle and she seemed to like it there.

Mike
 
I don't have a temperature gauge on my car so I have no idea how hot it runs. I am trying to understand exactly what problem you are experiencing.

190 degrees is less than the boiling point of water.

Is your car overheating, or is water being thrown out of the overflow tube, or is water leaking out around your radiator cap?

From reading your first post, it sounds like you are losing water out of the overflow tube and water is leaking from around your radiator cap. From your description it does not sound like it is "overheating".

I would think that removal of the thermostat, checking radiator cap gasket(s), making sure the overflow tube is near the top and near the back of the radiator neck, and letting the water seek its desired level (probably a few inches below the top of the radiator), might solve your problems.

If it is actually overheating, I would suspect a head gasket leak allowing combustion gases into the water.
 
I think some Model A's just don't like thermostats. Mine never puked out any water until we decided to install one of the thermostats.....it would start spewing water within a few minutes....removed it and the problem went away. You might want to at least try that. You also did not mention if you had the engine pans.......many of us think those definitely improve the air flow and cooling...........
 
Bob;

I had a similar problem with coolant spitting out of my Moto Meter. I determined that the gasket was not sealing properly. I spread a very thin bead of Permatex blue under the gasket and let it cure. It was just enough to raise the gasket to the point of sealing properly. No more spitting.

I also have a 160 thermostat and I am running 50/50 distilled water and anti-freeze. On a hot day and working the engine hard going up hills etc. the temperature gauge will shoe 190 or sometimes a bit better. I don't think that is too bad for a Model A as long as it doesn't go any higher than that. At least you won't be making sludge.

Dick
 
190 degrees is in the danger zone on my temp gauge. I would expect problems if run for very long at that temperature. I think that the thermostat, the 50/50 mix and probably points-timing is a big part of the problem
 
Well, this evening I drained all the 50/50 mix into two (2) gallon Jugs and sealed them up for this winter. I then removed the Thermostat. Closed the Petcock, poured one (1) gallon of distilled water, then poured some Pump Lubricant and some Water-Wetter. While I was pouring the second gallon of water back in, I noticed water all over the floor. I hadn't Spilled any. In fact I used a large funnel to pour the solution in. I could see water running all over the fins in back and on the front of the core area.

It appears that the fluid is coming out somewhere in the core area, probably mid way up the core area. I can't see any leak holes and I CAN'T BELIEVE THE RADIATOR SHOP, WHO HAVE HAD THIS RADIATOR IN 3 TIMES NOW, WOULD HAVE OVER-LOOKED A LEAK.....It goes back in the morning.

I will keep this post updated as I go.
 
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Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet Bob and get a Brassworks(or any good three tube) radiator. I bought a Brassworks years ago and have had no problems since.
 
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Bobpo
Thank you for keeping us updated, even its a pain for you.
Hoping the best for your next try !

Best regards Christoph

Long time i struggled with overheating.
Than i decided to buy a new radiator in US, even transportation and taxes
are no joke (did that to keep the original and try to rework it myself)

Wanted to have a Brassworks HD, but they could not deliver some weeks ago.
I decided to buy a "Vendors-HD"
Even this was much lighter than the original, all of my probs are gone.

Did a drain-test with the old one and found water comming out 28 hours later :eek:
 
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