Help! Ignition key won't turn.

phartman

phartman

Senior Member
My '34 pickup. The ignition key has gotten tempermental the last couple days. Yesterday it turn, so I could unlock the colum lock, but only after a couple tries. This morning the key won't turn at all.

Suggestions?

Thanks, fellas.
 
PB Blaster/WD40 more to clean/flush the dirt out, then a good quality lock lube. Make sure you lube up the locking plunger, you may have to remove the 2 screws holding the drop to the bottom of the dash to get to it. Jack up the front axle to get the weight off the column. What does the key look like? if it is badly worn it may have finally gone over to the dark side.
 
Thanks, Phil. I started to send you a Private Message. I did get the key to turn, but it is still tempermental. I'll clean it with some gun cleaner that I have to remove the gunk and the dirt. Finely powdered graphite ok to lube the lock? Please advise.

The key looks ok, not too worn.

When I remove the key, I hear a faint click. When I insert the key back into the lock, I have to jiggle the key around- it won't turn at first; and then I can feel a slight engagement on the 10th try or so, and the key turns easily. Feels like the key is somehow not engaging one of the tumblers maybe? Dunno.

Pete


32phil said:
PB Blaster/WD40 more to clean/flush the dirt out, then a good quality lock lube. Make sure you lube up the locking plunger, you may have to remove the 2 screws holding the drop to the bottom of the dash to get to it. Jack up the front axle to get the weight off the column. What does the key look like? if it is badly worn it may have finally gone over to the dark side.
Click to expand...
 
A tumbler is likely sticking in there and may be a bit past its alignment point. Spray lube/solvent will partially liquify the dirt or corrosion then compressed air should move it out. The dry lube it good after you get everything moving again.
 
Graphite products should do well in the older locks. Sounds like it may need to be cleaned further.
 
Graphite only!

What you may have fallen victim too is; liquids. Spaying any liquid into a lock is a no-no, dust, dirt and grit adhere to the liquid and make a sludge. That sludge is abrasive and causes premature wear.

This isn't to say that your venerable lock hasn't just simply worn through time. My suggestion would be to remove the lock and have a locksmith replace the tumblers and springs, if you can get NOS keys cut all the better.

Locks on our old cars are like a toothache, the smallest thing can lay the biggest and best of us low.
 
I agree with Fe26, my suggestion was to clean the lock out . After 80 yrs. who knows what's in there. Some crud may not be removed using petroleum based products. I have used steam to cut the crime out of old locks... then Water Displacement Formula #40 (WD40) to help displace the water , then lacquer thinners to remove the oil/grease then graphite. Unfortunately not too many locksmiths out there that can or are willing to work on these old locks. If you search on the Barn there are several folks who can help refresh the lock.
 
A few years ago I wanted some new ignition keys so I drilled out the plug that holds the cylinder in so I could remove it and get the code on the cylinder. I gave the number to 32Phil and he cut new keys which fit perfectly. At the time I tapped the plug hole for a slotted set screw. Now I can easily remove the cylinder (so could a car thief). Recently my key was tricky like above. Wiggle here wiggle there and it would work. So I called 32Phil and told him I would like to send him the cylinder for repair. He told me to do first what he would do first: Put the cylinder in boiling water for a short time, blow it out, wd40, then dry graphite. Works smooth ever since.
So, I would recommend that you drill out the plug holding the cylinder in http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101010&highlight=lock+cylinder

Clean the cylinder and tap the hole for a set screw. Then if you are out traveling around and break or lose your key just remove the screw and cylinder and reach in with a screw driver to slide the locking bar. Now before someone says that the locking bar could jiggle back left to the locking position I would say this for short term use only and keep an eye on the chrome button to be sure it is not sliding back to lock the wheel while you are driving.
John
 
Last edited:
I sprayed brake cleaner in mine, till it was clean. Then let it dry and squirted graphite in the lock. It has worked fine ever since. Marv
 
Just for the record......WD40 was developed as a water displacement fluid. The stuff they sell today was the 40th formulation they tried hence the name WD40. I do not suggest it be used as a lubricant for locks.... only as a cleaner especially if a lock has been contaminated with a sugar based liquid. I have steamed quite a few locks and then sprayed them with WD40 to displace the water. I always a use graphite based lube when I'm done.
 
Like GM said, take the pressure off the lock plunger by turning the steering wheel just a little and turn the key at the same time.
 
OK, got out on it just now, and the key/lock works like new. Here's what I did:

I used two products to clean the lock/tumblers. First I used a gunshop product- a degreaser and cleaner- from Birchwood Casey. Man oh man, can't believe how much gunk and crud came out of that lock! What a mess. Then I used a CRC Electrical Cleaner/Degreaser.

The trick seems to be to use compressed air to get all that mess out of the lock. And it takes a while for it to dry out. A good ten minutes working with the air compresser and some computer keyboard cleaner that I had.

Then a light lube with fine, dry graphite.

Works like new. Undoubtably one of the tumblers was sticking.

Thanks!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top