Help diagnosing engine problem

Ok, so spliced off a bit of the insulation from the broken end of the pig tail and temporarily crimped it into the connector. Reattached the wire, put everything back together in the EXACT way I took it apart without moving anything. Hit the starter and it immediately fired up and ran like before the sudden loss of power. SMOOOOOTHHH! I have tore the distributor apart again and will not drive it until I get the pig tail replaced. Do you need to remove the lower plate to replace the pig tail? Do you have to replace the lower plate to get a new pig tail? It looks like it is permanently attached to the lower plate.

I want to thank all of you that helped me get this figured out. Your knowledge is awesome. A sincere THANK YOU!!

Chris
 
If your lower plate is original, I would keep it and solder on a new flexible wire. Be sure to bend the terminal at the points end to a 90 degree angle so it doesn't contact the spring or cast iron. Marco shows a picture of this.

BTW, the proper way to solder on the new wire is to fold the first tab over the wire insulation, and only have a short uninsulated wire to solder to the next tab after it's folded over the bare wire.

Picture #59, what kind of cable do you have screwed into the distributor? It appears to be fabric covered. It should be a coiled spring. You might want to change it if it's something else.
 
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jthomas6 said:
As I stated in reply #21, but was immediately informed that it was "useless" information. :rolleyes: ;)
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Even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and then.:D
Even though you had the right answer, what about all the others that were wrong?
All I wanted to suggest was that he try using a proven method, instead of treating it like an Easter egg hunt.
Congrats to the OP, glad that you found the problem!
 
all the answers were shotgunning guesses incld mine as a proper diagnoisis was not performed.

using a voltmeter or even a basic testlight, plus a spark tester it could have located in 5 minutes

i also am glad Chris found the issue.
 
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CWilson said:
Ok, so spliced off a bit of the insulation from the broken end of the pig tail and temporarily crimped it into the connector. Reattached the wire, put everything back together in the EXACT way I took it apart without moving anything. Hit the starter and it immediately fired up and ran like before the sudden loss of power. SMOOOOOTHHH! I have tore the distributor apart again and will not drive it until I get the pig tail replaced. Do you need to remove the lower plate to replace the pig tail? Do you have to replace the lower plate to get a new pig tail? It looks like it is permanently attached to the lower plate.

I want to thank all of you that helped me get this figured out. Your knowledge is awesome. A sincere THANK YOU!!

Chris
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Wilson,
When I needed a LONGER, FLEXIBLE wire for Minerva, I just ripped apart a flat 110 volt extension cord & it worked well. I also use them to make jumper leads & to replace the frayed wire on my OOOOOLD Signal Stat test light, they're soft, durable & last "FOREVER"----The wire inside, is much like the "100 strand" wire!
Bill W.
 
Mitch//pa said:
a proper diagnoisis was not performed.

using a voltmeter or even a basic testlight, plus a spark tester it could have located in 5 minutes
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Sure it could have been located in 5 minutes, if you know what you are doing. I don't know what I'm doing, so It took 3 days. I tried to "properly" diagnose it by using Mike V. Florida's method, which got me to the point of knowing I had voltage on one side of the points, but not on the other. While I may not have completely understood what I was supposed to be doing at the time, I know now. I know how the ignition system works, the distributor and all its parts, and I know how to "properly" diagnose problems in the future. Thanks to those whose posts I read in the archives, and thanks to those who helped me apply that information in this thread. I learned a lot.
 
CWilson said:
Sure it could have been located in 5 minutes, if you know what you are doing. I don't know what I'm doing, so It took 3 days. I tried to "properly" diagnose it by using Mike V. Florida's method, which got me to the point of knowing I had voltage on one side of the points, but not on the other. While I may not have completely understood what I was supposed to be doing at the time, I know now. I know how the ignition system works, the distributor and all its parts, and I know how to "properly" diagnose problems in the future. Thanks to those whose posts I read in the archives, and thanks to those who helped me apply that information in this thread. I learned a lot.
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Chris you did a fine job
there was an intermittent contact at the pigtail break causing a on and off spark condition
 
Congratulation Chris. Sometimes it takes awhile to figure something out, and not to disparage anyone who had in put on this post... everyone had to start figuring out Model A's somewhere. No one I have met had all the knowledge immediately.
This forum is a wealth of information and has very knowledgeable folks who are happy to help.
I am fairly new to these cars too, and have learned A LOT from this site and by doing all I can to learn how things work and also fix them when they break. I'll bet if this ever happens to your car again, you will have a lot more success in diagnosing it quickly and easily.
 
Thank you for following up and letting everyone know what the issue was. Too often a guy reports a problem, we all jump in and offer a number of possible solutions (sometimes too many, yeah) but never get a follow up on the problem and how it was resolved. I for one appreciate that.
 
one more thing check if distribitor is turning as my can gear went and I checked all things first then the rotation CAM GEAR its fiber strips and its common
 
Chris,

Good work on solving your problem. After some time goes on, you can help others that are new to this hobby.

Remember that this forum is open to all types of people and some, while trying to help, forget what it's like to be "brand new" to working on cars.

Marc
 
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