Help diagnosing engine problem

CWilson said:
My apologies, I realized when I had my wife helping me turn the engine over I might not have had the key turned on. Tried it again with the key on, and I do have spark.
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CWilson said:
I tried starting with the choke full out for awhile then quickly pulled the plugs and I have wet plugs so it's getting gas.
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Based on these two statements, I'd guess its out of time, or its flooded. You shouldnt need the choke for more than one revolution of the motor. Looking at your pictures, I think you ought to go ahead and clean and re-gap the points.It appears the gap has closed up on them. Its been pointed out the clamp for the movable point is broken. I would check to see if you can freely turn the movable point WITHOUT loosening the screw. If you can turn this, it probably moved on you and started your problem, and you might as well fix it now, or it will keep eating your lunch. If its good and tight, loosen the clamp, clean and re-gap the points, and check the time.
WHEN you get ready to pull the upper plate, I would go ahead and pull the timing pin and bring it to the proper place to set the time, BEFORE you take it all apart. Take you a good closeup pic, like you have here, and then when you put it back it will be a lot easier to be sure you have everything back in the proper orientation.
Good Luck.
 
I appreciate the efforts to get this figured out. I'll get it eventually:o. Just keep in mind that the problem was instant, not gradual. I don't know if that helps point to a particular thing breaking. Thanks everyone!

Is it advisable to upgrade to a modern upper distributor plate since I am replacing part anyway?
 
CWilson said:
I appreciate the efforts to get this figured out. I'll get it eventually:o. Just keep in mind that the problem was instant, not gradual. I don't know if that helps point to a particular thing breaking. Thanks everyone!

Is it advisable to upgrade to a modern upper distributor plate since I am replacing part anyway?
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No, the modern upper plate is not the way to go.

The points block was likely broken when someone torqued down too tight on it. It only needs to be tight enough to keep the points screw from turning.
 
I agree with Tom and a lot of others, dont convert to the "new" (40 year old) points, they are difficult to find quality parts for now and you just open yourself up to a whole new set of problems.
Unfortunately you could still have an intermittent problem, where something checks good and then fails on the road. These can be the most difficult to find, and are the most frustrating. The aforementioned condenser and key switch are infamous for this, just keep that in mind.
A lot guys get themselves in deeper when they start replacing parts willy-nilly, often improperly, and then introduce multiple problems, when they had a simple thing to fix in the beginning. Dont be one of those guys.
Start on it afresh today, and let us know how you come out.
Oh, and your car did not "fail suddenly". You were able to fool with the spark and get it to go again. It just went downhill almighty fast. There is a difference.:D
Good Luck!
 
Rex_A_Lott said:
I agree with Tom and a lot of others, dont convert to the "new" (40 year old) points, they are difficult to find quality parts for now and you just open yourself up to a whole new set of problems.
Unfortunately you could still have an intermittent problem, where something checks good and then fails on the road. These can be the most difficult to find, and are the most frustrating. The aforementioned condenser and key switch are infamous for this, just keep that in mind.
A lot guys get themselves in deeper when they start replacing parts willy-nilly, often improperly, and then introduce multiple problems, when they had a simple thing to fix in the beginning. Dont be one of those guys.
Start on it afresh today, and let us know how you come out.
Oh, and your car did not "fail suddenly". You were able to fool with the spark and get it to go again. It just went downhill almighty fast. There is a difference.:D
Good Luck!
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I was not able to get it to go again. The farmer down the road towed me home. Since the sudden loss of power, it will not run, and now will not start.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
With the points open see if you have 6 volts at the movable contact. If not, then check the sitch to see if both terminals have 6 volts.

The points ground contact mounting block should work, but also should be replaced because it's broken.
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If by movable contact you mean the arm with the contact on it, yes I have 6 volts there with it open. I hove 0 volts on the side with the threaded contact.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
No, the modern upper plate is not the way to go.

The points block was likely broken when someone torqued down too tight on it. It only needs to be tight enough to keep the points screw from turning.
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I will replace the block, but the point screw needed to be turned with a screw driver, it was not loose.
 
I tried cleaning the points and adjusting the screw in a tad, then tried starting. no luck. I was in my garage and it was a little dark. I noticed when I moved the spark advance all the way up,(like I would normally do to start the truck) the dome light would get brighter. If I tried starting the truck with the spark advance all the way up (brighter light), it would not start. If I moved the spark down just a bit, the light would dim, but the truck would start. I mean barely start, and run like crap. With the truck not running, and the ignition on, if I moved the spark advance up and down, I could hear something electrical clicking from the distributor. Any thoughts?
 
Look carefully all along the spark advance rod from the steering column to the distributor as you move it through its whole range of motion to make sure its not grounding out some how as you move it. It shouldnt be, of course, but its a quick check to make.
I agree with Dave, sounds like you need to pull the distributor and fix the pigtail, or make sure youre getting fire to the top plate correctly, if there happens to be the pigtail eliminator kit in there.
Good Luck:)
 
IF you have the $$$$'s, just buy a QUALITY rebuilt distriburor from BERT'S & study & rebuild the old one for a spare.
IF you BROKE, jist dial 1-800-BUSTER T!
Bill W.
 
you guys think its narrowed down??
by moving the spark lever up and down,,, may just be opening and closing the points and thats whats making the noise and dimming the lights
all normal
of course it could be the pigatail.
open the cap and look when moving the plate with key on and see.
thats all it takes
 
What's a pigtail? I'm Model A stupid. If I remove the top plate, will I have to re-time the engine? Just wondering, I don't care as I need to learn anyway. Thanks again to all!

Chris
 
CWilson said:
What's a pigtail? I'm Model A stupid. If I remove the top plate, will I have to re-time the engine? Just wondering, I don't care as I need to learn anyway. Thanks again to all!

Chris
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Yes you will have to re-time it. The pigtail is what takes the fire from the bottom plate to the top plate.
You would do yourself a favor if you could get someone to help you do it the first time. Marco has a good procedure you can search for.
Good Luck
 
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