Help! Can't get my '54 239 to run right!?

Chuckster

Junior Member
My 54 Sunliner with a stock 239 fordomatic lost power the other day and limped home acting fuel starved and barely running...I have replaced points, plugs, distributor cap and rotor, rebuilt the 2-barrel carb, dwell is at 28, points at .15, timing is right on the mark...yet it runs very rough and sputters and smokes, won't idle and generally runs like crap. I'm at the end of my rope ...what did I do wrong? Any Help or advice greatly appreciated! This car was purring like a kitten a few days ago...
 
In your list of parts you replaced I don't see the condenser or the coil, which can cause the symptoms you described. How about fuel delivery?
 
fyi points should be .025 ,unless it is 1957 or later dist.
[1] The smoke and rough running , you may have lost a push rod .
[2] check to see if the timing chain jumped [motor will be very lazy and wind up slowly . If you advance the dist timing 10* or 15* past normal and it smooths out the chain jumped .]
Let us know you make out.
Justold
 
fyi points should be .025 ,unless it is 1957 or later dist......Justold

The point gap of .025" is correct for a 6 cylinder engine, but .015" is correct for all single point '48-up Ford V8s, resulting in a nominal 27 degree (58-63%) dwell.
 
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My 54 Sunliner with a stock 239 fordomatic lost power the other day and limped home acting fuel starved and barely running...I have replaced points, plugs, distributor cap and rotor, rebuilt the 2-barrel carb, dwell is at 28, points at .15, timing is right on the mark...yet it runs very rough and sputters and smokes, won't idle and generally runs like crap. I'm at the end of my rope ...what did I do wrong? Any Help or advice greatly appreciated! This car was purring like a kitten a few days ago...

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Is your choke OPEN all the way when warm ?











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If the engine backfired it may have blown the power valve in the Carb,if it ran OK before you did the tune and you still have the old power valve screw it in and see what happens.The newer Holley power valves have been redesigned not to blow out,O'Reillys or Advance Auto both carry genuine Holley parts get a size 6.5 and 7.5 and see which one works best for you.A blown power valve will cause all the symptoms you posted.Another thing you may want to replace if it is the original is the vacuum advance canister.
 
If you remove the dist it may never run again. Just kidding.
But remove the dist turn upside down remove any dirt on shaft and oil shaft.
Now check to see if the dist bearing are worn and loose.
 
Coil is new, replaced condenser with points, rotor and cap, replaced plugs, choke is manual and wide open...still won't run very well...
 
Justold-
Timing is right on at 8 degrees advanced. Fuel delivery is fine, engine turns normally, starts right up and runs terribly, won't idle, popping and sputtering with lots of rich smoke out the exhausts. Ran it with the valve covers off and checked the rockers and all valves are working...still can't figure it out!
 
jeffB2-
I'll try to replace the power valve, but it was replaced with the one that came with the kit when I rebuilt the carb. Could be it's not the real Holley part you mention. I'll check it out again, but at this point, I am not sure the problem is in the carb/fuel system...
 
George/Maine,
I'm thinking the problem could be the distributor itself...I will pull it out and check it... Do you have any suggestions regarding how to tell what might be wrong/worn out, etc...?
 
If the smoke is black; it is the carburetor. Too much fuel is the only thing that will cause black smoke(you said rich smoke which would lead me to think this). Float stuck/set too high, power valve leaking/bad(as JeffB2 said above), (you've already covered the choke), too much fuel pressure, restricted air intake, other leaking fuel source in carb, that about covers it. Nothing in the electrical system or vavle timing will cause black smoke.
 
George/Maine,
I'm thinking the problem could be the distributor itself...I will pull it out and check it... Do you have any suggestions regarding how to tell what might be wrong/worn out, etc...?

Some times the shaft binds and tight, then it could also be loose and points don't fly right. If you keep adjusting the points its loose.
 
I have had a worn timing chain slip a tooth, it can happen.
Chuck, I also have a yellow 54 Sunliner and used to own a 65 PU the same color as yours. John
 
If the smoke is black; it is the carburetor. Too much fuel is the only thing that will cause black smoke(you said rich smoke which would lead me to think this). Float stuck/set too high, power valve leaking/bad(as JeffB2 said above), (you've already covered the choke), too much fuel pressure, restricted air intake, other leaking fuel source in carb, that about covers it. Nothing in the electrical system or vavle timing will cause black smoke.


Amen Motorhead 6. Been reading these without comments until now. Even thought the carb was rebuilt, doesn't mean something like dirt in the fuel valve can't cause the carb fuel level to rise and run like all of the descriptions. Could be something else bad in the carb too.
 
scicala-
Interesting...I have thought the carburetor is the trouble all along. I'm going to pull it off again and check it again...any other suggestions what to look for in the carb? It's the original Holley 2-barrel, by the way.
 
johnsunliner-
The timing is right on the mark, so I don't think it slipped a tooth unless it could do that and still appear correct with the timing light. Is that possible? I'm thinking its carburetor and am going to work on that some more...
I like your yellow Sunliner...mine is 'sandalwood tan' with black and green interior and black top. I love my hot rod truck too...the 65 has a built 460 Lincoln roller motor with aluminum heads and goes like...well, let's say it just goes very fast!
 
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