Helmet Distributor Rebuild

Gasket comparison.
 

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Timing adjustment plate and hardware. The crab one came with a lock washer, so I'll use, but need to clean off the rust.
 

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Condenser coil installed. Had to remove the ignition coil as the screw to attach the condenser coil cannot be accessed once the ign coil is installed. Be careful not to loose the carbon brush and spring.
 

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Exterior caps and extension boots installed. They forgot to send me the ones I ordered, but since I now have a brown coloured coil, I'll get some used brown ones from them to match.
 

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The new coil didn't come with the wire connection nut, so I'll use the original one. I'll clean up a bit of the hardware, but that's it folks. I say that's it, but it really isn't as there are further adjustments needed to get things working their best that require special equipment. Yes, you can do the field adjustment, and perhaps it is ok, but not optimum. I will say this was a great learning experience, and hope it helps those willing to tackle something like this. Would i recommend this to everyone? Simple answer is no. It is a lot of work to clean and prep the housing. Actually, when you factor the time, cost of materials, etc, what people charge to rebuild this is actually very reasonable IMHO. Another reason I wanted to pursue this on my own was also the exchange rate between the US and Canadian dollar, which easily adds another 30%-40% to the cost, plus the shipping, duty, etc.
 

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My Helmut Distributor works just fine but this makes me want to go out and get a clunker and tear it apart just for the hell of it. Nice job.
 
Thanks. Fairly easy to assemble, but it is all in the prep work like most things in life. Actually forgot to open the envelop of gaskets. Lol! So it is not "done"! Haha! Will follow up later after I've cleaned up the hardware, and polish the end caps.
 
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Ziggster, have you heard of the modification to put heat shrink on the shaft, under the rotor to prevent grounding from the rotor to the shaft?
 
Ziggster said:
Condenser coil installed. Had to remove the ignition coil as the screw to attach the condenser coil cannot be accessed once the ign coil us installed. Be careful not to loose the carbon brush and spring.
Click to expand...

Save yourself future grief and notch the condenser ground so you don't have to remove the bolt to change it. You can just loosen it a couple turns.
 
Zeke3 said:
Ziggster, have you heard of the modification to put heat shrink on the shaft, under the rotor to prevent grounding from the rotor to the shaft?
Click to expand...

No. First I had heard of it. How can it ground to the shaft?
 
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marko39 said:
Save yourself future grief and notch the condenser ground so you don't have to remove the bolt to change it. You can just loosen it a couple turns.
Click to expand...

Good to know. It is a bit of an ackward design in terms of RR.
 
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Just a quick follow-up. There is so much info out there (here and on the HAMB) about flathead timing it is almost overwhelming. Anyways, after some more reading and review, I've set the adjusting screw for the vacuum brake at 1.5 turns in, and the adjustable timing to 3rd mark from bottom which I guess equates to 4 degrees of advance (crank).
 
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Ziggster, From Parts to completed Distributor.
Thanks for the pictures and hints on rebuilding these Early Ford Dome Type Distributors.
 
Ziggster, Given you have a NOS rotor the insulation around the shaft wont be to much a concern. Ford had a service bulletin, as the rotors after use can crack on the inner portion and short out to the shaft. MAny rebuilders such as myself install electrical tape or shrink wrap over the shaft to prevent a occurance.
 
and you need to set the points with the assembly installed in the housing, coil on and adjustment screw tightened
Lawrie
 
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